Got induction fan for Volgelzang wood furnace and no instuctions

That's a "mind of its own" condition that I've gained & lost customers over. When the unit first starts in heat, you mentioned the induced draft motor will start with no other reaction from the system, that should be the best time to locate the issue by using a volt meter. If you are getting 24 volts to MV/PV at the gas valve then you know all of the heating circuit has "proved", and that the gas valve is the problem. If not, the backtrac until you find 24v. Now if you are simply just changing parts until you find the problem, which we've all done, I believe you've changed all that you can. Check all wire connections. Its probably a loose, corroded, or damaged wire/cannon plug(the plastic plugs that multiple wires are connected), stopped up gas pilot orifice, or the gas valve its self. Hope this helps!

Transformers typically supply 24v to the circut board, controls, and safety switches. 120v supplies the fan motor. limit switch is a safety switch and is part of the startup/ignition sequence. If the limit switch is tripped then there is a problem with your furnace that should be managed by a qualified professional in your area, or risk damaging your furnace, and perhaps causing a fire. Hope this clears things up.

Here is a lot of information in this link:

Honeywell St9120c4057 Wiring Diagram Fan Control Board Wiring Diagram...

Shut off power, disconnect thermostat wires from control board. Put a jumper wire between R and W turn power back on. If the garage heater starts and heats, your issue is in the thermostat. If it does not start or heat, your problem is in the power coming.

Check power coming in, it should be 110-120V if you have it there, check to see if it has a transformer, if it does check for 24v on the secondary side of transformer, if you don't have it there, replace transformer.

Your thermostat is probably wired directly into the furnace to supply the 24V to power the stat. You have to make sure you're getting 120V into the primary side of the transformer, and 24V out of the secondary side. If you've got voltage in and nothing out replace the transformer with one of the same voltage, and same or higher VA rating. If you don't have 120V in then start checking backwards starting with power in/out of the door switch, then back to the unit disconnect switch, and back to the breaker if necessary. If you've got 24V out of the secondary go check to see you've got 24V at the thermostat between the R and C terminals, if you do the thermostat is bad. As with any electrical wiring make sure you've got good connections on all wiring terminations. Good luck, if you need an explanation of how to check the power in and out of the transformer let me know!

Intermatic C8865 timer is a 5-hour cycle timer that repeats same cycle each 5 hour period.
This timer has 120Volt clock motor and is 120V timer.
Timer has NO and NC terminals.
NO terminal turns ON when timer turns ON
NC terminals is ON all the time, except when timer turns ON. At this point NC terminal turns OFF.

You have 3 things: 120V timer, 120V honeywell transformer, 120V stoker motor/fan
The transformer needs to be ON at all times.
The stoker motor is going to turn ON when the cycle timer turns ON.

You have 120V cable with black wire, white wire (and bare ground, which connects to green ground screw and to other bare grounds and won't be discussed further)

Black wire is hot
White wire is neutral

Black wire connects to 'Switch common terminal' on timer.
Same wire also connects to black wire on Honeywell transformer.

White wire connects to 'Clock terminal' on timer
Same wire connects to white wire on Honeywell transformer and to white wire on Stoker motor.
So all the white wires are connected together.

Last wire is black wire to stoker motor.
This wire connects to NO terminals on timer.

Here is drawing.
Add a comment any time

If the jumper has been removed, then the control is working in the low voltage circuit. Black should be 120v in, White the 120 going out to the fan, and the red or limit wire is (should be) in the low voltage control circuit. Have you looked at the wiring diagram for the F and L Control? If not I will provide a link for you. https://customer.honeywell.com/techlit/pdf/69-0000s/69-0117.pdf

Hope this helps

Hmm this is tricky it depends what kind of furnace you have etc....need more info but basically you supply 120V to the common connection(with the jumper) and from there you would run a wire L1 to the furnace motor from "Load" on the fan side....and the wire L1 from the "Limit" side will power the furnace transformer../..the Limit ios very important and must be wired correctly...I suggest you have an exspert install it

Thanks for your question Mike,
The wiring for your humidistat and solenoid are fairly simple, you will need 24volt t-stat wire, you have the two wires at the Solenoid, one wire goes to the terminal board at the furnace, it connects to the (c) or common terminal, the other wire connects to one leg of the humidistat, run another wire from the other leg of the humidistat, to either the HUM terminal on your furnace circuit board, make sure its not a 120v leg, should say in the owners manual, if if is or your not sure, connect that same leg to the (w) terminal at the furnace, this way it only comes on in heating mode, some models need a second 120v-24v transformer, but you would still wire it through the same way, only exception is that you have to hook up 120v to the transformer, and route your wiring like I told you above but through the transformer to complete the circuit, hope that helped you out Mike, please let us know, thanks again, mr.grzz

Sounds like you may have put 120v through a 24v solenoid and humidistat.
Is the HUM terminal on the furnace 120v or 24v?
If it is a 120v terminal you will need a 120x24v transformer and a new solenoid and maybe a new humidistat.