A200 wiring goes to ground from capacitor

It is a Start Capacitor. It give the motor a jolt to get it running.

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MOTOR STARTING CAPACITOR FOR HOBAR MIXER MODEL A200 REPLACES 00-070487-00018. 125V, 50/60HZ, 145-174uF. Includes: One Capacitor. Replaces#: 00-070487-00018 ...
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Hobart A200 Stand Mixer
Beatriz, I looked through the entire manual, it shows no reverse option. Did you just get the mixer or did you have it repaired. It seams the mixer is either wired wrong or the gears that rotate the mixer were not assembled correctly.
Check the attached link,manual,instruction and guides, Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."

https://my.hobartcorp.com/kroger/TechnicalServiceManuals/A200%20Technical%20Manual.pdf

A200 Hobart Service

It doesn't really matter which wire goes to L1 L2 or L3. All that can happen is it will run in the wrong direction. If it does just interchange any 2 of the L1 to L3 connections and this will reverse the motor.

I think... without knowing that motor... that the capacitor is a start capacitor, and that the start switch may be trying to "start" the motor full-time instead of switching it out of circuit after it figures that the motor has spun up. I may be wrong - that design may be a capacitor-run motor (similar to a three-phase motor) - but I'm betting it's a start-only capacitor.

If you know someone with a capacitance meter, you could check the capacitor - for both capacitance (to be sure it matches the label) and leakage. Easy way to write that one off. Alternatively, you could rig it such that after the motor's wound up you could manually disconnect the capacitor and see what happens - either the motor stops or else the smoking issue stops.

Whatever you do, don't let it smoke very long. The varnish on the windings is only so thick.

There are four possibilities to look at here. Assuming your mixer has a normal capacitor start motor (older a200's used a different style motor), possibilities are, in order of likelihood:

Motor start capacitor
Start switch (electronic or mechanical)
Burned wiring
Motor start winding

The start capacitor is located at the rear of the mixer. Remove the rear cover (4 screws) and pull the cover towards you. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor and test with any multimeter.

The start switch, if electronic, is able to be tested, but not very easily. Once you've eliminated the other possibilities, it's time to replace the (electronic) start switch. If the motor has a mechanical start switch, it's easy to test: Remove the two wires at the rear of the motor and test for continuity with the motor stationary. A multimeter should show near zero ohms for a good mechanical start switch.

Burned wiring should be easy to spot with some careful inspection around the motor, capacitor, and start switch.

Start winding: Look closely at the stator (stationary part of the motor). If some of the copper windings look significantly darker in color than the others, it's likely the start windings were overheated (the start windings are the thinner copper wires - if you look closely, approximately half of the wires are thinner than the other half). Look for a wiring diagram behind the power switch and determine which wires leading to the start switch and/or capacitor are for the start windings and test for continuity across the start winding. You should read a fairly small value such as 5 - 15 ohms. Values significantly outside this range could indicate a partially open or partially shorted start winding.

The answer is clearly in the starting circuit which doesn't have too many parts, but depends on the type of starting circuit your mixer uses (electronic or mechanical start switch). I'm assuming your mixer isn't very old, as the old units used brushed motors which did not have starting circuits.

The parts of the starting circuit are the motor start winding, the start capacitor and the start switch (probably electronic in your case which is a small silver box with four wire terminals on it). The capacitor should be tested with a multimeter after verifying it's not holding a charge (check with multimeter set to DC Volts, mixer unplugged, should read zero volts).
Start winding should be tested with the meter to measure ohms. Locate the wires leading to the motor (hopefully only three wires) and you should get a reading for all three combinations of measurements (wire 1-to-wire 2, 2-to-3, 1-to-3) if meter indicates open on any of these, motor stator is bad(this is pretty rare and quite expensive).
Electronic start switches are not very simple to test, but if the capacitor and motor test out OK with the meter, and all the wiring is intact (look closely for loose wires, burned wires, poorly crimped terminals, etc.) then it must be the start switch.

It sounds like you get a degrading or bad start capacitor (locate right behind motor cover (see fig 22, page 12 of part catalog, cost $13). Here how you can check if your machine still work properly: 1- Rotate the agitator shaft manually to check for any binding. 2- remove two wires from the capacitor. 3- Use a small jumper, connect one end jumper to one wire and touch the other end jumper to second wire 4- As soon as motor start, remove the jumper. Good luck, If your ,machine have never have preventive mainternance it is a time to do so. (atva)

Assuming the unit is 120v, single phase, my money is on a bad electronic start switch (not to be confused with the on/off switch) It's not visible without some disassembly. Usually, it is located at the rear of the motor cavity. Take note of all the info on your model data plate then go here to obtain a parts breakdown on your particular mixer. http://www.hobartservice.com/Parts/

I'd suggest replacing the capacitor as well.

I'm not much help telling you how to wire it w/o seeing it. But, most relays have a tiny diagram drawn on the side. If you take some time, these drawings are usually helpful.

Sorry, that's all I got. Mike

No, do not swap hot and N.

First, verify rotation. As the attachment shaft rotates, it should push the engagement pin into the keeper slot. Looking down on top of the mixer, the planetary should rotate clockwise.

If the unit runs backwards, does it start slow? Can you get it to run either way by giving it a push start before turning on the power? If so, your start switch is not working properly. (Which is my guess) Check your capacitor.

There is mechanical and electronic start switches. (Metal arms and a contact or a little gold rectangular metal can.)

Check it out and let me know what you find -- Mike