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Because the system is bi-amplified, it is important to replace the wires correctly to avoid phase problems. I don't know how the wires are colour coded, but if it is any help I downloaded the schematic and the wires are numbered 1: Woofer Active 2: Woofer Earth
3: Tweeter Earth and 4: Tweeter Active. Sorry if that's no help. Otherwise it should be easy to trace the wires to see which connect to earth.
It is hard to say. The sub-woofer has its own amplifier, although it is supplied the sound data from the main amplifier. It could have a problem with the battery power circuit (Sub-Woofer Amplifier Connector Pin 6, LIGHT GREEN/VIOLET) or it could have a problem with the GROUND circuit (Pin 2, BLACK/LIGHT GREEN) Or it could possibly not be receiving the signal from the main amplifier (Pin 7, BROWN/ORANGE "+"), (Pin 8, RED/BLACK "-"). Or it could be that either the sub-woofer speaker is blown, or the sub-woofer amplifier is defective. There is also a "High Audio Mute" circuit that connects between the main amplifier and the sub-woofer amplifier.
It is the Class D power amplifier module that JBL uses a lot in the powered sub-woofer, they are very unreliable and hard or impossible to get.
I had modified them to use linear power amp IC instead. http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm/JBL%20PB-12%20mod/
First of all.
Using two different kinds of sub woofers, is not an option, as these two sub woofers have different specifications and you should never mix sub woofers.
Now the better choice from the 2, would probably be the Rockford. (cant be sure without knowing the models, power handling is also a factor in how well either of the sub woofers will play, but Rockford as a rule makes better sub woofers than Sony does)
In my opinion, both the sub woofers deserve a better amplifier than what Boss has to offer.
However to connect either of these sub woofers, you would need to determine how many voice coils it has and how many OHM the voice coil/s are.
If it is a DVC (dual voice coil) and each voice coil is 4 OHM or 2 OHM, then you can connect one voice coil to one channel of the amplifier and the other voice coil to the other channel of the amplifier. If it is a DVC 2OHM you can also connect it wired in Series/Series to give a 4OHM load and should be connected to the BRIDGE dedicated speaker outputs of your amplifier.
If it is a SVC (single voice coil) and it is 4 OHM, then you can connect the sub woofer to the designated speaker outputs of your amplifier that states BRIDGE.
DO NOT run the amplifier in BRIDGE mode at 2 OHM as this will probably damage the amplifier.
dreamsystems
There are many sub woofers out there that would be suitable for your amplifier. Just stick to the quality brands such as Elemental Designs, JL Audio, Alpine(type X), MA Audio, RE Audio and there are many more. Make sure the minimum power handling for each sub woofer is 600 WATT RMS.
Another thing. The gain control on the amplifier is not a volume. It is there to match the output voltage (V) of your head unit to the input voltage of the amplifier. For example, if your head unit RCA output is (1.2V, 2V, 4V or even 5V) then match that on the amplifiers gain to be the same. The higher the V number is on your head unit, the stronger the signal is that is being sent to the amplifier. For example,
If your have a 4V head unit and the gain control on your amplifier is set to 1.2V the you are sending almost 4 times the amount of signal strength to your amplifier. This causes distortion and distortion causes speakers and sub woofers to blow.
I hope you understand the concept.
IMPORTANT: This is a powerful amplifier, a 4 Gauge or 2 Gauge power cable MUST be used. Less than 4 Gauge, will cause over heating of both the cables and the amplifier. YOU DON'T WANT THAT.
If you still have doubts and need more assistance, let me know.
dreamsystems
Check to determine if your sub woofers are DVC 4OHM or DVC 2OHM
SOLUTION 1
If your sub woofers are DVC 4OHM then, from the positive (+) of the amplifier run your cable to the positive terminal of voice coil 1 on sub woofer 1 then continue to connect all the positive voice coils together on both sub woofers.
Do the same for the negative from amplifier to all the negative voice coils of both the sub woofers.
RECAP: all positives together on the positives and all the negatives together on the negatives.
This will give you a 1 OHM load to the amplifier making it deliver all its power but will also run hot. So if you are living in a hot climate take care.
SOLUTION 2:
Connect the negative on voice coil 1 to the positive of voice coil 2 on sub woofer 1
Do the same for subwoofer 2
now you should have a free negative and a free positive on each of the sub woofers. connect the free positives together and follow through to the positive on the amplifier. do the same for the free negatives sending them to the amplifiers negative.
This will give you a 4 OHM load to the amplifier. Not full power in this mode but the most stable working condition for your amplifier.
SOLUTION 3
If your sub woofers are DVC 2 OHM then you only have one reasonable wiring solution.
Connect like solution 2.
This time because of the DVC 2 OHM sub woofers you would have a 2 OHM load to the amplifier. This is also a stable load for the amplifier and does not generate to much heat and still deliver over 50% to 70% of the amplifiers power.
good luck and drop me a line if you still have doubts.
dreamsystems
Check the Woofer for continuity and also with an external amplifier.
if there is no issues then the sub-woofer power amp IC can be faulty.
Check the main voltage to the IC, if not present the power section must be traced for a line break, fusible link.
If there is power , then test for input signal to the IC. If so the IC can be the supect.
Hello sir, hi, YOU DON'T bridge no more speakers, this upsets the impedance load of the amp. to install another sub-woofer, get another amplifier. You may have damaged your power amplifier, If you experience repeated fuse blows, your power amplifier is now SHORTED. This needs IC amplifier replacement.
Hi, probably two things that can go dead, 1) the woofer itself and/or 2) the amplifier. I will rule out poser supply cos the other speakers are working. Normally they have a separate amplifier than that of the woofer.
If you are comfortable working with a soldering iron and a multi tester, after unplugging from the mains, then you open the enclosure and check the continuity of woofer which should read between 4-8 ohms, if it is open or no reading, replace just 2 wires/terminals involve with 3 or 4 screws. If the woofer reads a continuity, then it is the amp which normally is just a single power IC attached to an aluminum heatsink. In some instances, it may be a power transistor pair. In any case you have to be familiar with component level repair. Otherwise, you are probably better off asking a qualified service personnel to do the repair job.
Hope this be of some help. Pls post how things turn up. Regards.
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