Program knob Daughter pulled the knob off and now it won't stay on, have 3 plastic parts and a spring, don't know how I can fit them back together as when I put them on, the knob will not stay in place, the yellow plastic bit will but the rest won't and I have no idea where the spring comes into the party!! Can anyone help?

I just fixed my two. Same Problem. Take out / detech the bottom ( Need to push two plastic tab under the joint- behind we snap the spry bottle). And spray on the spring with W2 under the plastic knob. That it.

I had to replace part No 8182408 - the washing machine door handle. There is a plastic bar in the middle of the assembly that broke because the door was opened too hard.

There are two springs, the latch, and the plastic piece that brings it all together. The smaller spring is the key, call it the L spring. It is shaped like an L and goes around the ends of the latch. The other spring is the larger and straight and goes around the tops of the plastic piece. The straight spring goes in with the crossbar facing on the outside of the washer. The latch with the L spring fits in between the plastic crossbar with the U shaped end pressing against the latches inside bar. The antenna of the L spring needs to wrap around the plastic bar and fit inside the straight spring bar. This applies pressure on the latch to stay closed. When the handle is pulled, it releases the pressure and allows you to open the door. The Metal bar is used to hold all the pieces together and once you have the alignment right, put it back into the door with the straight spring antenna tucked in the spots on the door, as well as the metal bar ends. Screw in the two spots that holds the assembly in place and you will be set. The door should open and shut easily.

I recommend you get a Haynes Repair Manual on your vehicle for the directions on how to remove this properly.

I had the same problem. I had to take it apart and rewind it manually. To do this:
Step 1:
There are 4-bolts to remove on the orange plastic section the screw into the motor housing (one of them is hidden inside the orange plastic housing, you'll see an opening for it). There are also 3 screws in the black plastic exhaust housing that screw into the orange plastic housing, find those and remove.

Step 2:
Carefully remove the engine from the plastic housing. I didn't disconnect the throttle cable or the electric wires (points) just kind of worked around them.

Step 3:
The mechanism is kind of crappy. There are two black pieces with a spring in the middle, and a metal disc on the bottom with a ribbon coil on the underside of it. The top plastic piece is what turns the flywheel when you pull the cord. The spring in between connects the two plastic piece. This is probably what popped out. There is a piece sticking up on one end, which inserts into the hole in the top black plastic piece. If you remove the little guardrail things you can probably remove just that piece. KEEP TENSIONS ON THE PULL CORD. Once you remove that top black piece, it should start to recoil.

Step 4:
If it did recoil, put the spring back in the top plastic piece, and then put the plastic/spring combo back into the the bottom plastic piece, there is a little groove for the bottom of the spring to slide into. Then put the little guardrail screws back on. Make sure the big metal wire thing hasn't slipped down into the shaft of the weed whacker. That needs to go back into the motor, as it is what gets spun and in turn spins the strings. As you start to put the motor back in, you may have to pull on the pull cord a few times to get the flywheel and plastic piece to line up. Once you hear the motor start to catch, then you should be able to wiggle it back into place and put back all of the screws. Then give it a shot. If it pulls out again, you may have to drill a new hole into the top black plastic piece for that spring to slide into (this is the crappy design part).

Step 5:
If the pull cord didn't retract, you need to remove the other two pieces (lower black plastic piece and metal disc with ribbon). The metal ribbon has a nub on the outside that hooks onto a plastic piece in the bottom of the orange plastic housing. You'll need to wind it around once or twice to "charge" the ribbon, then wind the string back on the black plastic piece. The black piece should slide into the center of the metal disc and catch the inside of the ribbon. Once you get these two together, again, make sure the metal ribbon piece is wound once past normal and then you have to slide both parts together down into the housing catching the metal ribbon loop over the orange plastic nub. It's tricky, it took me a few tries. Once you get that you can try and test the pull cord, you'll see it pull out and feel it retract due to that metal ribbon. Then go back and do step 4, where you put the upper black plastic piece with spring back into place and replace the little metal guardrails.

This whole thing took a few tries, and the pull cord still gets stuck out. It's a major pain to say the least, but after the 5th time fixing it, you'll be a real pro.

It sounds like the only thing you are missing is the circlip to hold the whole lot together.
With it de assembled you should see a cut out part on the timer stem that's where the circlip goes when it's all back together

Yeah its a bit tricky. ON the fron of the car seat there is a strap that goes intot he seat and has a button to lossen it. Press it down to lossen that strap then flip seat over and on the bottom you will find other end of the same strap and it has a brass t-fitting. Take it and pull it up the back side of seat and the shoulder straps fit into the brass fitting then tighten by pulling strap in front of chair.

HAve fun ;)

There is a threaded stem that passes through the spout and attaches to the white plastic diveter valve. If you are starting from scratch (everything apart), you can put it back together in this order:
1) Place the white plastic diverter inside the spout. the circular side with the black round washer should face the the wall side of the shower (mating up against the threads for the water pipe).
2) The stem can now be inserted from the top and into the notched section of the white plastic diverter valve. The threaded end of the stem shoud be outside of the spout (from the top side).
3) A round black washer fits over the threads. It should sit right where the threads end. Dont push it all the way on to the unthreaded portion of the stem.
4) Screw the threaded knob onto the threads.

Should be ready to install now. Including the spout itself, there are 5 parts and are configured in this order from top to bottom.
1) Female threaded knob (the knob for operating the spout)
2) Threaded stem (threads on top)
3) Round black washer
4) Spout
5) Whit plastic diverter valve.

Mine leaks when I turn on the shower, thus reducing shower pressure. I looks like a poor design to me. The stem is not a tight fit in the spout and this allows the diverter to "wobble". The washer on the diverter valve does not seat tightly and allows water to leak out the tub spout when showering. I would replace the spout.

Motor to transmission coupling broken. Original WP parts are ruber and plastic. The plastic appears to be a common break part. An improved replacement part is available with metal inserts.

To replace:
1. Unplug washer from power.

2. remove 2 screws on front of machine below dials. This allows you to flip the knob box out of the way.

3. Disconnect 3-prong electrical connector.

4. Remove springs holding outer case to back of unit. A flat screwdriver will make this easy.

5. Tip outer case of washer forward then rock the case side-to-side to dislodge it from the front seat. Remove outer case and set aside.

6. Disconnect the electrical connection to the pump and the 2 connectors to the capacitor.

7. Remove retaining clips from the pump with a flat screwdriver. Do not remove hoses from pump.

8. Remove retaining clips from motor. These should be secured by a screw which will need to be removed first. Remove the top clip first and the motor will tilt down.

9. The coupling is comprised of 3 parts, two plastic gears with legs which slip into the black rubber connector. One gear fits onto the shaft from the transmission or "gearbox", the other fits onto the shaft coming from the motor. One is probably broken and there will likely be black debris from the rubber connector. This lets you know for sure this was your problem. The gears will need to be removed by prying them off or use of a gear puller.

10. The replacement part runs $15-20 and should be in stock at a good appliance parts center or it can be found on the interent but you may have to wait a day so plan your repair accordingly.

11. Install the gears on both shafts first. A 3/8"+ socket and extension can be used to tap the gears onto the shaft fully. Once the gears are installed, place the rubber connector on one gear and lift the motor into position to fit the coupling back together.

12. Reinstall the retaining clips on the motor and the screws on the clips.

13. Reinstall the pump and its retaining clips.

14. Reconnect the 2 connectors to the capacitor and the electrical connection to the pump.

15. Reinstall the outer case by first setting the front edge into position on the frame and tilting it back into position.

16. Reinstall the springs holding the outer case to the back of the washer. The flat screwdriver will help again.

17. Reconnect the 3-prong electrical connector and flip the knob box forward into postion.

18. Reinstall the 2 screws holding the knob box on the front of the washer.

19. Plug the washer back in and test the washer by setting it to the spin cycle to see that it spins.

20. For the do-it yourselfer it should take an hour to an hour-and-a-half plus time to and from the parts store.

Managed to fix it - actually was a 7680. Only do this if you:

1. have a small screwdriver set

2. are handy putting little delicate plastic pieces and springs together again

3. are prepared to face the possibility that you might break the shaver entirely

4. you are out of warranty so you don't care if you invalidate it

THE PROBLEM is caused by a small flat metal assembly that acts as a spring to hold the blue button in place. That is held by 4 small glue posts. The glue breaks down, the flat spring falls out of place and the blue button is no long in the right place.

TO OPEN UP THE SHAVER

a. gently remove the plastic cover around the electrical socket underneath, using a small flathead screwdriver to pry it open

b. the two metallic sides of the shaver can be pulled away starting at the bottom of the shaver

c. uncrew the four screws on the underside of the shaver

d. remove cutter block, battery/lcd block (make sure you don't lose the grommet around the lcd display

e. pull the spring and little plastic latch off the underside of the switch, make sure you remember how to put it back (took me almost 20 mins to figure out how to get that back afterwards)

f. slide the switch all the way up and pull it off the slide - you might need a little gentle force and a flathead screwdriver to coax it off - be careful you don't break anything here

g. remove the trimmer from the rest of the switch

h. put the blue piece back in place (mine had fallen out), then glue the flat metal spring back in place. I smeared brush-on crazy glue on the flat surfaces to hold it in place, I would imagine a four drops of reasonably strong glue on each of the glue posts would work best. Wait for the glue to dry and achieve strength.

i. slide the trimmer back into place, then the plastic latch and spring - this is the tricky part. Make sure the switch can slide on/off in all positions properly.

j. put the display/battery & cutter block back in place. put the back of the shaver on, hold the shaver together with your fingers and test the switch works in all positions without jamming. If so put the four screws back, followed by the metallic sides followed by the plastic cover of the electrical socket.

GOOD LUCK!!

Well it turned out that that 45 degree plastic piece DID or WAS attached to the main post. It snapped off. I super glued it back on and to each side of that very flimzy broken plastic I cut two very small pieces of wood (using popsicle sticks) and super glued THOSE to either side of the broken armature piece. Once dried I re-attached the spring and it worksd like a charm.