Center shaft for V813 is damaged - Regal Ware K813BK La Machine Food Processor

You damaged the blade or bent the shaft, not sure how you could get it off.

my friend if you had not removed that blade for a while it will certainly stuck due to the moisture that forms on the shaft of the blade holder causing it to have corosion you will have to carry that item to be removed by a qualified tech by you doing it your self could cause damage,which could cost you more.good luck

Hi Eric, you are going to have to get the motor out and yes it will be because of the spilled liquid fusing/rusting the motor armature shaft into the bronze bush. Those motors are very expensive so worth a go to save it. You will have to get the plastic sleeve off that shaft first before you can get the motor out. Removal will destroy the sleeve. I drill a hole through the top of the sleeve, side to side leaving about 5mm of meat at the top. I shackle a chain through it and attach it to my bench leg and then accelerate the whole motor unit away in a straight line. The shaft needs to be pointing at the attachment point on the bench or it can slip from your hands creating more grief. It will only take 1 to 3 pulls, 1st one doesn't work do it harder, same with second pull and harder for the 3rd. The chain needs to have welded links or the chain will break. That is far the easiest removal method I have found, other methods could involve hacksawing it down one side being careful not to damage the metal shaft or melting a line down 1 side to split it open with a soldering iron. Once that is off then remove base, detach motor wires from pcb and remove the screws under the plastic caps on top of the top housing. Then it will be working away with levers and a spanner on the shaft and CRC, sweat and time. If you strike trouble after that email me
[email protected] Cheers Ross

See http://www.regalware.com/

The shaft sleeve (the one on the motor shaft) is likely damaged. The correct solution is a new shaft sleeve and chopping blade. If you do not replace them both together the one you do not replace will damage the other one again.

Contact their service centers near you. Find'em here

I have a DLC7pro from around 1982 that I just replaced the sheath on.

To remove the sheath I use a small pipe cutter and took the sheath off in approximately ½ inch sections. Once the circular cut was complete I used a plier to pull off the section. - This method worked GREAT! Be sure you get ALL of the white plastic off and be sure to remove the ½ inch brass "ring" which is part of the old sheath. Also, make sure no plastic "crumbs" are in the base of the shaft where the new sheath will sit. You will see that the metal shaft has a flat side. With a sharpie marker, mark the metal shaft near the base to indicate where the center of the flat side is.

When you look at the replacement sheath, you will notice flat sides on the outside of the sheath. If you look inside the sheath, you will see two "nubs", these nubs form a flat inner side of the sheath . Unfortunately these nubs do NOT line up with the flat outside sections. Use a sharpie marker to mark the center point of the two inner nubs. The inner flat side HAS to match up perfectly with the flat side of the shaft. The marker helps you do that.

Line the inner flat side of the sheath up with the flat side of the metal shaft and push the sheath on your hand as far as it will go. It should go about an inch from the base.
Put the base on a mat on the floor ( you don't want to damage your floor) . Next you will need a hammer, piece of 2x4 wood and BRUTE STRENGHT! - Please note that once you hammer this, even just one strike and the sheath will NOT come off. Put the 2" side of the wood against the top of the sheath. Using more force than you think you should need - strike the wood to hammer the sheath all the way down. It should take 3 - 5 very hard strikes. If the base of the sheath rubs on the bottom of your workbowl - they will fuse together, so be sure the sheath is seated as far down as you can get it. Again, it takes a LOT

Initial disclaimer: I am not recommending this course of action - my recommendation is to buy a new food processor. These units weren't designed for DIY repair, so this is going to be a difficult task. The final product probably isn't even going to be pretty. You are well out-of-warranty, or I wouldn't even consider posting this. First, make sure you have a DLC-7E shaft - the only way to get one at this point would be to buy a DLC-7E base from eBay or an after-market seller, as all of these were manufactured well over 20 years ago. I don't currently see any eBay listings for one, but they do crop up from time-to-time. Make sure the DLC-7E you are repairing and the old one from which you are wrenching the old shaft are unplugged and have been unplugged for an hour or longer just to be on the safe side. Unscrew the four screws on the bottom of the base on both units. If the bottom base does not come off after this, carefully pry out the four feet and unscrew any hidden screws that might be hidden underneath the feet (Careful - original feet cannot be ordered by normal means, and damage will only add to your total repair cost). Take note of the guts on the inside of both food processor bases - if you have to unscrew the motor body (4 screws that sit just underneath the top of the base), take note of everything that you are taking out so that you can put it back in its proper place when done. Wear leather gloves for safety. Please be aware that even an unplugged unit still has the potential to send several volts of electricity through your body - this is a potentially hazardous task. Once the motor body has been unscrewed and removed slightly (don't disconnect any wires or cables - just get the motor body out of your way), you will notice the old shaft that you intend on replacing. Look for any damage to the gears/bearing that surround this shaft. Try dabbing a small amount of USP-grade mineral oil on any bearings - clear away any dust or debris that may be obstructing the shaft from turning. Don't overapply the oil, or the wetness will seep into other electronic components in the motor and cause them to fail. Put your food processor back together, turn it on, and press the button/buttons on top of the base of the food processor with a pen with the food processor plugged in. If the shaft still won't turn, you definitely need to replace the old shaft (you can disregard some of these previous steps if your problem is that the spindle on the old shaft is worn).
Remove the screws and disassemble the processor base as described above. Since there is a layer of paint/coating surrounding the old motor shaft, removing the old shaft may cause paint flecking. Take the shaft from the one food processor base and insert it in the food processor you are trying to repair. Strip away any excess paint/coating from the new shaft. Make sure no paint flakes remain in the body of the food processor, or they will later cause more serious problems that will permanently damage your food processor - potential fire hazard as well. You will probably notice that the new shaft does not look as pretty as your original shaft, since the paint/coating will almost invariably get damaged in this process. Reassemble the base of the food processor, making sure no wires, etc. were knocked out of place in the process. This paint flecking will add to the cost of the repair - you may need to buy appliance body paint that dries to almost a rubbery consistency to make the final project look nice. All of the materials listed above could cost you $40 or more.

Like I said, I don't reccomend this course of action, but there's your answer.

If you still need the book, I might have one I can copy and e-mail to you. I'd have to look for it. No sense my looking for it and copying it if you already have it at this time. Let me know if you still need it. [email protected]

The black plastic clutch has a left-handed brass threaded insert. Temporarily remove the motor to hold the shaft and remove the brass insert by rotating clockwise.