Fridge stopped, it's getting 120 voltage, lights dim

. The illumination is controlled by the BCM - body control module .
Interior Lamps Dimming
This group includes lamps which may dim. This group may use a combination of vacuum fluorescent (VF) illumination and incandescent lamps.
• HVAC control module, head assembly
• Rear HVAC control module, head assembly
• Radio
• Rear seat Audio
• The instrument panel cluster (IPC)
• The PRNDL lamp, with the exception of the current gear select position
• Power window switches
• Various switches
When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, the VF display, radio, turns ON at maximum brightness. When the park lamps are ON, all incandescent back lighting turn ON at the dimming level indicated by the instrument panel (I/P) dimmer switch. At the same time all VF displays dim to match the indicated dimming level. When the headlamp switch is placed in the PARK position, the park lamp supply voltage circuit provides an input to the body control module (BCM). The BCM then supplies voltage to the I/P dimmer switch through the I/P dimming lamps control circuit. The setting of the I/P dimmer switch determines the amount of voltage that the I/P dimmer switch supplies to the BCM through the I/P dimming lamps low reference circuit. The BCM then sends a pulse width modulation (PWM) voltage to all the interior lamps. All the VF and incandescent back lighting lamps are provided a specific voltage and are then grounded. When the headlight switch is turned to the park lamp or headlamp position, all incandescent back lighting turn ON at the dimming level indicated by the I/P dimmer switch. When the I/P dimmer switch is moved from MIN to MAX, all VF displays, as well as all incandescent back lighting respond from minimum intensity to maximum brightness in response to the I/P dimmer switch.


Do you know what DTC'S - diagnostic trouble codes are ? Codes set in the BCM
DTC B2610 00: Passenger Compartment Dimming 1 Circuit
DTC B2615 00: Passenger Compartment Dimming 2 Circuit
DTC B2652 00: Passenger Compartment Dimming 3
Circuit/System Description
The instrument panel (I/P) lamp dimmer switch is used to increase and decrease the brightness of the interior backlighting components. The I/P dimmer switch provides a voltage signal that will increase as the brightness of the lights are increased and decrease as the brightness of the lights are decreased. The body control module (BCM) provides a low reference signal and a B+ voltage reference to the I/P dimmer switch. When the I/P dimmer switch is placed in the desired position, the dimmed voltage setting is applied from the I/P dimmer switch through the I/P dimmer switch signal circuit to the BCM. The BCM interprets the signal and applies the dimmed voltage to the I/P lamps supply voltage circuit and the interior backlighting components dim to the requested level. Ground for the I/P dimmer switch is provided at G201.

sunroof fuse 1 20amp / power windows - circuit breaker 25 amp
both of these are located in the instrument panel fuse box .

The dispenser bulb looks similar to a c7 christmas bulb or night light bulb but they are not the same. The dispenser bulb on some are 6 volt and some are 12 volt. The night light bulbs are 120 volt and will light very dim. Make sure you got the correct bulb from an appliance part dealer. They will need your model number of the fridge. Or check on line parts stores like www.vvapplianceparts.com.

RV Refrigerator Stop Working? - RVing - Fun Times Guide

rv-roadtrips.thefuntimesguide.com/2009/09/rv_refrigerator.php

If your refrigerator works on gas, but won't work on electric, you may have a burned out.... Cirtis, We are camping in Montana and our dometic refrigerator decided to stop ......Won't know until you can confirm you have proper voltage to the fridge. ... If you have confirmed both 12 vdc and 110 vac power at the fridge, I would ...

[PDF]Dometic Manual Refrigerator Diagnostic Service Manual

www.nationalserroscotty.org/resources/dometic-service-manual.pdf

Dometic Manual Refrigerators. ... 110 Volt Plug. 2. .... This is Dometic's Manual Refrigeration Diagnosis and Troubleshooting program. In this ... we will discuss the way an absorption cooling unit operates, and the ... gas, 120 volts AC and 12 volts DC .....In this condition we are still boiling ammonia but have no hydrogen for.

Dometic Fridge problems - RV mechanic

the unit has gone into over load
The total power requirement has exceed the output of the generator
for example if the generator is a 2.500 kw or kva then it will generate well at 1.8 kva or kw but it will not run forever at 2.5 kva -kw
When a ac is running the power requirement will be constant on the generator and with the fridge as well then the load will be at the maximum out put of the unit.
when the fridge starts again the extra load will exceed the max out put of the generator and it will slow down ( lights dimming ) and eventually go into overload mode
have an accredited electrician calculate your maximum load requirement for an external power supply and then get a unit that is at least 15.. kva kw better that required
generally fridges use 1000watts , ac conditions will draw over 3000watts and any thing else adds up . I am guessing that your generator is only 2500 unit

I have had a similar problem my light is very dim after contacting manufacturer I was told if the fridge freezer is still working fine then just put up with the dim light.

First of all if you're condensor motor is controlled by electronic control board varyable speed type you might want to think about looking at replacing the control board. But first I would take a voltmeter test to see if the fan motor is getting enough voltage. If the voltage varies with the temperature inside the box then you have a controller. If the voltage remaind constant (120) and the motor still slows down yoy have a bad fan motor. As far as you're like the problem goes the only thing I can think of besides loose wires or bad switch.would be if it operated off the same control board.

Unplug hydro plug to fridge. Remove cover on circuit board. Follow wires from heating element, to terminals on circuit board. ( probably J7 and J8 ) . With an AC volt meter or multimeter set to AC voltage, turn fridge on hydro, and leave door open on fridge so that it calls for cooling. To be sure it's calling for cool, try gas first, when it's starts, you know it's calling for cool, then switch to AC operation. Now test for voltage at the 2 terminals that the heating element were/are attached to. If you get 100-120 VAC, then replace the heating element. If not get back to me and I'll walk you through a couple more tests.

Sounds like you have a defrost Prob. Take back cover off. Turn defrost timer in to defrost mode you will feel a click. timer may be located in fridge. ceiling or back wall if not there check bottom of fridge. behind kick plate or in back bottom of fridge. by compressor. See if heating element gets hot if not check for 120 volts at heater and defrost thermostat ( Terminator ) if not check defrost timer if you do have 120 volts check for 120 volts at heater terminals if no voltage or weak voltage replace terminator if you do have good voltage replace heating element. When ice builds up the fridge. starts to get warm turn off for 24hrs turn back on fridge. will run OK till ice builds back up.

Certain dimmers can control standard incandescent lamps that use 120 volts while other dimmers can control low voltage xenon or halogen light sources that use 12 or 24 volts.