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WOW this is an expensive camera, I would first HIGHLY recomend spending the money and send it to a good electronics or camera shop and have them fix it.
If this is not an option here are a couple or things you can do. Since this is a higher end camera it
should have a mic jack, if so just hook in a good microphone and it should work fine.
A couple of words of warning before tying the next solution you could permanetly mess up your
cameras sound. While this method theoretically possible, some companies intentionally make this
very hard. Often companies will use hair thin wires or wires that are so short thier is no way to
patch into them. Also, since this description doesn't use standard hardware you should disclose
this repair to anyone who might wish to buy the equipment if you decide to sell it. Also, the mic
that I've suggested may not be as good of quality as the original Sony. You can use
any mic of about the same size so long as it has wires to tie into.
If your not real familiar with electronics get a buddy with some experience repairing electronics to help.
If your really adventurous, you could take the mic assembly apart and put in a new mic. Just get a good compact mic like a KOSS M5 and splice off the end then shave the wires. Then carefully
take the mic assembly on you camera apart look for a small disk made of two magnets an a
fillament with 2 wires disconect the wires from the disk and hook them up to the shaved wires
from the KOSS microphone (one wire from a lead the other to the ground of the KOSS microphone). The KOSS mic will have 3 wires two sources/leads and a ground you might have to play around with it to figure out the wires and get it working properly. If your mic assembly has 2 mics figure out which wires are the lead by hooking them up one at a time (to the wires that originally were hooked to the internal microphones) with the ground on the other wire and trying them. Once you figure out which are the lead wires hook them each up to the old mic wires and take the other side and hook them both up to the ground. once you have it all wired back up and any splices insulated (elecrical tape should be fine) you should be able to re assemble the mic with the new microphones installed.
If the mics for the camea are intergrated into a circuit board the same method will work but
the old mics will need to be desoldered and the leads from the new mic will need to be soldered
where the old mics were. If this is the case get a buddy with some experience with electronics to help you.
Method three use an external recorder. For this method just record the sound with another external
device like a digital voice recorder then use an editing program like Sony Vegas to add the sound to your video. The hard part is syncronization. A clicker may help create sound tags to align the video with the audio with the sound.
Here is some very general info, however for more detailed info, I need more information on what your using it for. Speechs, Play, Vocals, Bands? Inside or Outside venue?
For Vocals you should have no problems with a Wireless Handheld SM58, they work over a large range, however still have a limit. Make sure the receivers are always close enough to the mics to hold a reliable connection.
Wireless Lapel Mics (Clip-on) are more troublesome, as they are generally consenser mics which are more susceptible to feedback. You also need to place them somewhere in range of the person's mouth, whist avoiding placing somewhere where you will get alot of fabric movement whist moving around, or you will hear that very loudly FOH. You also need to deal with body-packs and wires.
Leturn mics are generally easier to deal with than Lapel, however again are Condenser and more feedback prone.
I would reccomend the SM58 where possible, as it is much easier to work with, and you are more likely to get a better sound with less work.
--Carefully pry the bezel around the on/off switch off and remove the LED and switch button--note the orientation of the LED. If you reverse it it won't work. The bezel has clips at both ends. Prying up in the center by inserting a screwdriver in front of the switch will allow you to insert a second screwdriver along the side of the bezel. Do this on both sides and it will pop off.
--Unscrew the battery cap and remove the battery.
--Unscrew the wire mesh cap.
--Pull the mic cartridge out. The rubber mount slips in and was glued.
--Unscrew the ring with the UH4 logo. If you unscrew this ring before pulling the mic cartridge out it will twist off the mic cartridge wires.
--Slide the circuit board out of the handle by pushing up on the battery holder.
Typically you want to wear the mic 6 to 8 inches below your chin clipped to the lapel area. It seems in this case it has more to do with EQ and speaker placement. If you can stand behind the speakers while using the mic. The sound bouncing back and forth between the mic and the speaker is what causes feedback. Also try setting the mic channels EQ with the following settings.
Turn Lows down to about 7 to 9 O'clock
Play with Mids to match actual source, but never boost above 12 O'clock
Keep highs around 10 O'clock (boosting highs increses chances of feedback.) If to muddy sounding keep highs aroun 12 but not over.
Check the headset closely around the mic capsule and ear attachment for placing the mic on your ear. This is prone to problems from bending the mic to fit different people. You may find a break in the metal under clear rubber material. Also the cable itself could have a problem. Countryman sells the cable and it unplugs rather easily. There is a junction in the cable that is actually a plug. You can pull it apart there. Be careful as the mic is very expensive. Also countryman provides excellent technical support. Good luck.
It appears to be a problem with USB and the clock sample rate of the mic. You need to go into your Applications/Utilities folder to find your Audio MIDI Setup. In there you can choose the device for input and manually set the sample rate (usually 44.1K or 48K). Keep that window open while you record, and you'll find that the mic will reset itself to another sample rate on its own... don't know why, and Samson's support is pretty non-existent, so I can't get any answers from them. If you simply reset the sample rate in the Mac's Audio MIDI Setup utility the problem will clear itself up. But, with Garage Band, you'll then get a very bad latency issue that will force you to restart Garage Band to reestablish a near-zero latency. It's annoying, but it does work. (In Soundtrack Pro I can reset it without having to restart the application.)