Defrost problem with GE Monogram ZISS48DAASS 48 inch side by side
Hi, one day I noticed that the ice tray was frozen in place, and ice would not dispense. I was able to open the door and melt the ice freezing everything together with a heat gun on low setting. Since soft ice has been caused before by dirty coils, I vacuumed the condenser coils on the top of the unit. These seem to get dirty faster due to the type of condenser coils (looks more like an automotive unit). I put everything back in and expected for the problem to be solved. However, I an still getting ice sickles forming, that make it down to the ice make dispenser and freeze all the rotating components in the door dispenser together.
After further poking around on the web, it looks as if there is something wrong with the defrost system: 1) drain tube clogged. I don?t see any water in the tray. In this unit (ZIS48DAAS), the drain tube runs horizontal across the top to a pan just under the compressor. The tube looks clear, but I guess the obstruction could be in the entry which I can?t quite see since it is in the evaporator box. 2) The drain trough heater is faulty. It seems like I would not be getting ice sickles from running water if the defrost heater was bad since there wouldn?t be anything to defrost the evaporator to turn the frost into a liquid. From the wiring diagram, it looks as if the control circuit for the defrost heater also runs the fill tube heater, and the drain trough heater, so I am assuming the defrost thermostat and defrost control are working.
So my first guess is that maybe the drain trough heater is bad, or the tube is clogged. It seems like if I unplugged the unit, and blew warm air from say a hair dryer into the evaporator box, that water should drain thru the drain tube into the pan below the compressor. If I can figure out where the connectors are, I might be able to check the resistance on the drain trough heater. It looks like it is supposed to be 338 ohms.
The three heating elements look to be in parallel with the following resistances: Fill tube heater=3412 ohms, defrost heater=38 ohms, and drain trough heater 338 ohms. So if I can find the correct place to check the resistance, it seems like I could use my parallel resistor law and figure out if anyone of them is bad. Since the ice maker works, I think I can assume the 3412 ohm resistor is good. If the resistance is 307 ohms, then it seems like the defrost heater is bad. If the drain trough heater is bad the resistance will be just under 38 ohms, maybe 37.5, fill tube heater is bad then the resistance should be about 34.2 ohms. Everything good, the resistance should be about 33.8. Sounds good in theory, but I am not accounting for tolerances in the resistive elements. However, I hope that my ohm meter could at least pick out a bad drain trough heater.
Before I do something stupid, any thoughts about my analysis, or any better suggestions?
Re: Defrost problem with GE Monogram ZISS48DAASS 48 inch...
I have ge monogram POS model zisw 42. Had the same problem. Poor design is the issue. Drain tube exits the case of the exchanger, is strapped to top of frig box, then up and over the pullout glides for the compressor. Water has a hard time running up hill. Stuff collects in the tub and blockage and or major restriction occur.
GE fix: replace defrost timeer to run longer,( so much for energy savings...nothing like runnig a heater full time in a freezer to keep ice cream soft) replace ss heater tray with one made of AL to conduct more heat. This fix worked for a while, then problem reappeared.
MY fix: Buy 2, 90 degree 1/2 inch fish hook style elbos, gray in color, at the local hardware store..see where PVC fitting are kept, Cost was less $5.00. Plus about 12 feet of 1/2 inch clear tube...about $6.00. go back home. Cut drain tube at top of box at about where it was attached, mid way between the pullout tray with the copressure and where it exits the freezer/exchanger box. Fit one elbo, point to the rear, add new clear line long enough to exit the rear of the frig case. Add 2nd elbo, pointed down, keep it close to the back of the frig. Add additional clear line to chase the drain line down through floor or wall such that the drain tub is now dripping it's waste water (very small amount really and under no pressure) outside the house. This fix has worked for about 10 years.
Re: Defrost problem with GE Monogram ZISS48DAASS 48 inch...
Yep, the drain tube is "iced up" and formed a plug of ice which is preventing the water from the defrosting cycle from exiting the defrost pan and exit to the pan under the compressor. The heat from the compressor will evaporate this water.
It looks like the compress can slide out to access the drain tube but I can not figure out how to remove the grill. So, I go into the freezer compartment and remove the panels to expose the heated drain pan. This is a small hose clamp that hold the drain tube to the drain pan. Once you remove the pan you can either use a dryvac to **** out the ice plug or do what someone else suggested and cut a ****/hole in the drain line from above. I used this method to push the plug out.
A service tech told me that the drain plug will freeze up when the line get dirty. The first time I did this, there was a lot of dirt inside the tube.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Odds are your temperature is too cold in your freezer. If when you moved you just plugged in your freezer without adjusting your temperate for your new location you accidentally froze whatever water was coming into your freezer.
First you will need a cooler for whatever you have in your freezer, unless you have wonderful neighbors who will let you keep your food in their freezer for couple of days.
Take note to see what your freezer thermostat is set to. Turn off your freezer. Take out all the food. Keep the door open. This would be a great time to clean your freezer. Let the freezer thaw out for at least one day. Check the line to make sure there is no ice. Once everything has melted turn your freezer back on. Turn your freezer back on but this time set the thermostat to three or maybe 4 levels below what you had it set to before.
Finding Freezing level: Fill an ice cube tray or small plastic cup with water. Put it in your freezer and come back in about three hours to see if has begun to freeze. If it has not begun to ice raise your thermostat to make you freezer colder by half or 1 level. Leave the ice tray or cup of water that you originally placed in the freezer but add another one. Come back in three hours to see if the water has frozen or has begun to freeze.
You want to leave the original water because you need to make sure the new water does not freeze solid as fast as the original water. If it does your freezer is too cold again.
Repeat "Finding Freezing level" until the water begins to freeze but does not freeze solid. Once your ice begins to free you can put your food back into the freezer. Wait a couple of hours more to see how much more your cubes freeze. If they are hollow or still watery in the center you should go up another half level and check on it the next day.
Once your cubes freeze solid you should be all set. If you don't get at least one tray of ice per day from your freezer you could go up another half level so your ice freezes faster.
Be careful about making your freezer colder because you might end up with the same problem you started with depending on how sesitive you thermostat is.
1. Disconnect the unit from the electrical supply and wait for 3 to 4 hrs to get ice melted. 2. Pull out and unclip the drip tray on the ice and water dispenser compartment. 3. Remove the screws from the ice and water
dispenser compartment front panel and
turn it over. The selector switch pack and
dispenser switches are now accessible for
Ice cubes WILL BE slightly moist when they land in the ice bucket. they've just been slightly melted in order to eject from the ice maker. Stop playing with the settings, for starters. put them back to normal, i.e., middle setting, place thermometer in center of freezer, and if you can, one in center of fresh food. monitor after 24 hours, and for the next three days thereafter. freezer temps should be in the -5 - +5°F, sometimes up to 10°, fresh food should be 35-40, sometimes up to 44°at the normal settings. If you are not having temperature issues, see if you notice any frozen drips of water on the underside of icemaker, indicating a possible crack in the ice maker mold, or a faulty water valve. You didnt include your model and serial number, so not knowing the path of the ice shoot, some go out the freezer door, some slide over and get dispensed from the fresh food side. Its possible you may have a problem instead with the flapping door that opens to allow ice cubes to be dispensed, or similar type mechanism. If this door does not seat completely when its closed, it will leak warm air directly into the ice bucket, which would make them slightly moist, also too, this warm air can cause frost and ice to buildup near the warm air source...look for any unusual forms of ice and or frost leading up from the flapping door to the ice bucket. Also look for any gaps in the door gasket when closed, this warm air leak can also cause similar problems, but its most likely with the ice door. could be the door, the spring, the solenoid, or something else i wouldn't know without personal refrigerator inspection.
You have 2 fans Make sure your top fan is working ,its located inside the freezers back wall. If it is working the vent from the freezer down to the refrigerator may be blocked.With out a fan you have no circulation .Also if you can move everything out unplug it turn it off w/ doors open 12 to 24 hrs this will free up any clogged tubes. Good luck. Len West
The ice maker must be re-primed with water to sense frozen ice in the tray, dump, and refill. Use a cup or glass to manually pour the water into the tray just below the top of the blades. It should freeze, dump, and refill.
Our 550 bottom freezer drawer froze shut earlier this week and the motor made an unusual sound, like it was working too hard. Two of us eventually were able to open the drawer to find that it had frozen shut due to a leak which filled the ice tray solid and then adhered to the actual door, freezing it shut.
We emptied the fridge and freezer, turned the control dials down to 0, but neither the motor nor the light would go off. We finally killed the circuit breaker to get the appliance to shut down.
It's cleaned and defrosted and we noticed that the gasket has torn in three places, two on the fridge door and one on the freezer door. The freezer door could be from our tugging, but the refrigerator door is normal wear and tear. We filled the tears with some kind of putty and when it is dry we will start everything up again.
This is not the first problem of this nature we have experienced with our subzero 550, but it is the most dramatic. Each previous time we have called a repair man out and he has been unable to fix it.
There is a motor that turns the auger for ice at the door but it has nothing to do with the water at the door. If you are sure the water line at the door isn't frozen then I'd suspect the control board isn't working (no power to the motor or the water solenoid valve). These diagrams may help you see what's inside so you can look deeper into the issue.
If you can, try turning the ice auger by hand (dump all the ice out first). Also check that melted ice didn't re-freeze and bind up the auger, etc. If you can leave the fridge off a day with the freezer door open that would melt any frozen water line, just to be sure that's not the problem.
I had this problem. The root cause was that mineral deposits had built up in the ice cube tray. The ice would not "dump"... but stayed in the tray after the dump cycle. I did not catch it quickly and eventually the plastic frame broke. That was easily replaced. Inspect the ice tray to see that all cube surfaces are smooth. If there are mineral deposits, they need to be removed. Do NOT scrub with anything abraisive or you will ruin the tray. As you are looking straight on at the Ice maker, with the bin out, depress the small black retangular tab. The tray assembly will come apart to remove the tray. Rinse the tray, then fill with warm vinegar. Let it soak. You may scrub with soft cloth, finger or fingernail to remove deposits. Replace the tray and you should be in business.