Jenn-Air part RI302 4 pt gas re-igniter with flame rectification tytronics #Z21-20 and 7431 PO38-60
My Jenn-Air dual fuel slide in range burners igniters 'click' constantly - all 4 at once - I have disconnected the above referenced part and even replaced it, but did not solve problem (I'm using a lighter to ignite burners!) The repair man is scratching his head (while the meter runs!) My husband wonders if there could be an internal short in the igniter (yes, even in the replacement...what are the odds???) Anyway, all wisdom/suggestions appreciated. [email protected] Thanks!!!
Re: Jenn-Air part RI302 4 pt gas re-igniter with flame...
We had the same problem on a Thermador cooktop with the same RI-302 ignitor. Turns out it was one of the switches that sits on top of the gas valves. These switches cause the ignotor to fire when the valve is turned. In our case, one of the switches had malfunctioned and was "always on" causing the ignitor to continuously fire.
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Re: Jenn-Air part RI302 4 pt gas re-igniter with flame...
If the range ground is bad it could cause this problem but the most likely reason is that he wired the new part incorrectly (for example when you light a burner on the right side it is trying to sense a flame on a burner on the left side)
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The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.
The oven burner igniter
commonly known as the hot surface igniter is used in modern gas oven burners to open the gas valve and to ignite the gas. As the igniter draws electric current it will heat to a high temperature and glow, as well as cause the bi-metal in the oven safety valve to warp and open the valve releasing the gas to be ignited. This sequence normally takes about a minute. Igniters come in both flat and round styles and are very fragile. If the burner does not light then you should check the igniter first. If the igniter does not glow at all, then check for power to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If power is present then the igniter may be open circuit and can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. If the igniter is glowing, but the burner is not lighting, the igniter may be weak and still be at fault because it requires a certain amount of current draw to open the valve. This check requires the use of an amp meter and should be performed by a qualified person. If the igniter is defective then it must be replaced.
1)The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).
2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).
3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.
Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.
If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.
There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.
a lot of iffy things could be happening here.. verify proper amperage draw through the ignitor.. i believe thats a 3.2-3.5 amp system but check the label thats on the gas valve, it will have the ratings listed on there for sure. make sure amperage draw is in the middle of the range as some gas valves are less tolerant of low amperage draw than others. it almost sounds like your amperage load may be on the low side, just enough to open the valve regularly but not open fully.. its on its way out if so.. the popping could be the gas coming into the oven slowly enough to NOT blow directly across the ignitor properly, (igniting it instantly if it were) and allowing it to pool in the enclosure some because of the low amperage draw through the ignitor, eventually firing with a bang..
yes the regulator vent could be plugged, but another thing is if you are on bottled gas/lp/propane for your source of fuel the regulator at the tank could be faulty also, causing the pulsing flame.. hope this helps, best of luck, ttfn
There is a possibility that the burner is partially blocked,make sure the oven is off and cool, take out the shelves, get a torch, a pin, a small piece of emery paper (or brillo pad) and a matchstick.
Inspect the burner at the back of the oven (look at the holes) remove any debris with the pin or match stick, use the emery paper/brillo to clean the igniter (this is a white stick with a piece of metal sticking out near the burner) very gently clean the metal part.
Try lighting it, if it makes no difference it's likely that your FSD (Flame Safeguard Device) is faulty and not allowing the correct amount of gas through.
It's a fiddly job looking at that so i would highly recommend a 'Gas Safe' engineer take a look at it for you.
Clogged burners are a very common problem with gas ranges because foods spilled on the burners block the gas ports and prevent ignition. On some gas ranges you can remove the top ring of the burner to expose the ports. Here's how to clean a burner: Step 1: Turn off the power supply, both gas and electric, to the range. Then remove the burner. Step 2: Soak the burner in a solution of mild household detergent and water. Clean it with a soft cloth. Step 3: Clear the gas ports with a pin or needle, rinse the burner, and let it dry. Caution: Do not use a toothpick or matchstick to clean the gas ports. If the tip of the wood gets stuck in the burner ports, it could cause a serious blockage. Step 4: When the burner is completely dry, replace it, and turn on the power and the gas supply.