Amana upright frost free freezer, early 1970's vintage
Freezer case has line voltage (120 volts) in the case (box) . The ground plug has been isolated with a 2 prong connecter. Freezer runs in this mode, other wise there is a "dead short to ground". Is is likely the defrost heaters are shorted to case? or compressor has internal short? My last test showed no short to ground (case) when compressor running but 120 volts in case when compressor off, pressumably when in drefrost cycle. The defrost timer was removed from contact with the case. However previous test with every thing in place had 120 volts in the case when compressor was running and none when compressor off----HUH?
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Re: Amana upright frost free freezer, early 1970's...
For the love of God get rid of this death trap.
It could be that it was meant to have a neutral earth, ie the neutral is connected to earth at the substation and house inlet and somehow the live and neutral has become reversed at the plug.
You have seen the case becomes live, this may be happening due to leakage current or a short as you say.
Either way the earth was there for a reason, to stop the case from becoming dangerous and you have removed that protection.
Neither the heater element or motor windings should have continuity to the case, I'd disconnect and check these out individually to isolate the problem and repair it, then put the earth connection back before using the freezer.
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Electronic components are very sensitive to voltage surges, spikes or sags.
Voltage is not delivered at a constant 120 volts. With alternating current, the voltage rises and falls in a predetermined rhythm. The voltage oscillates from 0 to a peak voltage of 169 volts. Most appliances and electronics used in the United States are designed to be powered by this form of generated electricity.
During a power surge, the voltage exceeds the peak voltage of 169 volts.
A spike in voltage can be harmful to appliances and electrical devices in your home. An increase in voltage above an appliance's normal operating voltage can cause an arc of electrical current within the appliance. The heat generated in the arc causes damage to the electronic circuit boards and other electrical components.
(Smaller, repeated power surges may slowly damage your electronic equipment, over time too.)
Voltage sags, a.k.a voltage dips or brownouts, is another form of electrical disturbance that can damage appliances as well.
The bottom line, power surges, spikes, and sags can vary in duration and magnitude; and can damage electrical equipment ranging from stereos to computers to any household appliance that uses chip board circuitry sensitive enough to "blow" due to over or under-energizing it.
Hello, The relay can be tested by putting meter leads in the 2 holes on it where it attaches to the compressor and it should be closed (zero ohms of resistiance) if you have the rectangle one thats how to test it. If its older style and has the wire coils on top of it must turn it upside down but still closed w/zero ohms.
to test overload thermostat disconnect it from compressor and it to should be closed with zero ohms from spade to where wire connects to hole where it connects onto prong on compressor.
both the realy and overload should be removed from compessor to test
if both check good test compressor by one meter lead on prong where overload fits onto and other on one then the other prong. Both the start and run winding on compressor should be between 5-20 ohms if either is open compressor is dead
This one requires more information. If the breaker trips randomly, then I say there is grounding problem between the plug and the freezer itself. I know the UK has a very large plug and it requires a serious connection into the wall. I would check and make sure you have a good ground on the box itself. You may have to removed the back and look at the connections If you have a V-OHM meter you can verify the ground through different parts of the freezer. If this never happen before and you just bought this freezer I would replace the breaker with a new one. The breaker maybe damaged and sensitive to heat from the current draw of the freezer. Also make sure it is the correct ampere required to run the freezer.
If the plug has 4 poles on it, that means it should be connected to two lines of power, one neutral, and one earth ground. The unit probably has a 208-230 volt compressor, with 115 volt control and heater system. Let me know if you need more info
They make generic "compressor packs" to solve these. Your capacitors and relay and parts that support the compressor operation went out.
If you're really really like just the temp overload switch went and you can jumper bypass it. It usually looks like a piezo electric type of disc connected right onto the comp case itself.
But you're right with the DT, the motors go out on them a lot. They are usually for 4/6/10/12 hours depending on make and model. Sometimes the contacts go So if you could isolate them... they're on the larger side and will go from the power to the compressor. Use a jumper and test for a complete circuit to the plug and through the compressor before trying it.
By law all freezers and ovens have to have a schematic diagram on them. Often it it in a little plastic package and sometimes just wallpapered to the inside of a large piece of sheetmetal in back.
Look on the electrical data plate. It should give you the info you need to know. I went to "victory-refrig.com". It looks as if you have a 3 door unit. The condensing unit is rated at 208-230 volts and is single phase. If your data plate confirms this, you need to use a plug that will accomodate 4 wires (4 prongs). Ground, neutral, and 2 power wires. It also shows that the unit is rated for 12.9 amps so a 20 amp plug is o,k. to use as long as you have the correct voltage. Do not attempt to use 115-120 volts on this as it is not designed for it and will most likely damage the unit. The web site has manuals, diagrams, and such. It looks user frendly, just got to look for what you want.
Hope this helps.
there are no fuses on a domestic freezer that i have ever seen. there are no fans and there are no traditional freezer coils. so you have only a few things that could be going on. if the temp is way up the thermostat should sense hot and close and send power to the compressor and it should run. you can do one of two things . find the thermostat inside the freezer usually . gently remove cover and check incoming terminal and outgoing terminal. if you show 120 volts its open and the stats bad. if you don't show 120 volts between terminal connections then its closed and the compressor is failing to start. if power is coming into the stat when checked to ground then go to compressor and see if there are starting components . they are a start capacitor and a START RELAY AND PERHAPS A OVER LOAD . SEE IF POWER IS ARRIVING AT THE COMPRESSOR. IF SO CHECK THE MICROFARED OUTPUT OF THEcapacitor . you need within 10 percent of the rated value. also you can gently remove the overload , a little plastic disc and look on the bottom side and see if its cracked or burned looking. an amp probe on the compressor will tell you what amps it pulls if it trys to fire up . 6 to 10 is good 30 to 50 is mechanically locked up and then the overload trips. if compressor is ice cold to touch then your not getting power to the compressor and its not trying to run. if its hot to the touch thens its trying but start caps weak , or its locked up. most domestic freezers are not worth the cost of a new compresssor anymore. good luck