Using a D200 and a new SB800, I accidentally popped up the built in flash with the SB 800 mounted on the hot shoe. The SB800 LCD went totall black, showing all black, and it can be read only from way far left or right, a little.
The flash continues to operate normally, but the LCD is black and dead.
Any ideas ? Is this a camera problem, or thks. new flash was defective ?
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This is an excellent flash, very powerful and compact and actually more flash then what was available when the D200 first cam on the market. The two will work nicely together and I think the problem is that the SB-800 can be programmed within itself. This meaning with some cameras you program the camera for the flash output with the SB-800 you can program the flash as well. It has some excellent features like Flash value lock (which I think is set to slightly underexpose from what your question is asking) it also has Flash color information and a built in Flash compensation. Possibly the compensation or value lock are set to underexposure. I'm saying this over the camera setting because you stated that the internal flash appeared to be okay, check your SB-800 settings
sounds like a short in one of the circuit boards, most likely one or seveal of the ribbons and boards will need to be replaced to correct the problem. Send in for repair expect to pay up to $200 for a Nikon factory overhaul
The problem is probably caused by a fault in the main power circuit board, if the red light doesn't come on then you also probably won't hear the high pitched noise as the capacitor charges. Will be expensive to repair as you will need a new circuit board.
I have 2 SB-800s. When batteries leaked in one Nikon took forever to fix it, so they eventually sent me a refurb. Then they sent my original back. Which was great, until recently it developed this problem.
Another possibly related side effect is the modeling flash does not burst -- it only fires a single (very bright) flash.
The capacitor argument sounds likely. Coincidentally I also had a problem where the flash would fire sporadically -- but that was due to scuz buildup on the contacts.
The Sb800 and the Sb900 is compatible . Can you tell me more of what the problem is .
There is no frim ware for the flash . The NIKON SB 900 FLASH SHOE IS THICKER AND MAKES BETTER CONTACT . THE NIKON SB800 SHOE IS LOOSER AND NEEDS TO BE ADJUSTED
IN THE INSTRUCTION MANUAL USING THE FLASH IN SHOOTING FAST CAUSES IT TO HEAT UP .
TRY USING THE FLASH IN MANUAL AND CUT THE RATIO POWER AND USE AS A FILL AND NOT A MAIN .
YOU COULD ALSO USE TWO NIKON SB800 FLASHES IN ITTL AND WITH TWO THE FLASH IS USING HAVE THE OUTPUT AND RECYCLE TIME IS INCREASED .
DAVE BLACK A WELL KNOWN PHOTOGRAPHER DOES THIS IN HIS SHOOTING .
Hi, I had the same sort of problem. It started with erratic small flashes but then evolved to the SB-800 not regonizing the D200 at all. The result of this is that I only get TTL and not TTL+BL+FP functionallity.
To solve this I cleaned the hotshoe on the D200 with all purpose cleaner for electical appliances (CRC 5-56). This gave minor improvment. Then I adjusted the spings to the left and right on the hotshoe on the D200 to press harder against the flash's connection (which I suppose is the grounding). Now everything works again.
When you attach the flas to the camera can exidentli fire. This is normal, and manufacturer recomendation, turn off the flas unit before attach or deattach, prevent this fireing. Fireing when you turn the flashead is not normal. Probably the mounting foot of the flash unit can move in the hotshoe, breaking connections between the connector pins, causing exidental fiering. Always lock the locking lever of the flas, wich can prevent this unwanted movement. Also chek the hotshoe on the camera, wich should to have a "leaf spring" keeping the flash unit steady.