Grease has been coming out round hole where the spade fits in. this has eased off and I am concerned the source has depleted and may need replenishing. If I pull it apart will I find an area which requires grease to lubricate the moving parts. I'd imagine the hammer section would require some sort of lubrication.

Many do not have grease fittings, but almost all come with a hole to install one. One on each of the ball joints. Check with auto parts store for the right size.

what kind of saw? first you loosen the nuts that hold the chain bar in place. Lift up on the bar as you turn the screw at the base of the bar on the engine. Do not make it tight-tight. The chain should be tight against the bar at the point of being being just a bit loose and tight. In other words don't make it so tight that when you grab the chain and pull it away from the bar it snaps back like a rubber band it should slightly pull itself toward the bar when you pull it away from the bar and let go of it. This it done at the center of the bar area. Once you have the right tension tighten the chair cover up again and recheck the tension afterwards. If you get to tight it will cause too much friction and burn up your tip, too loose and it will keep coming off the bar. The tip of the bar needs to be lubricated with a needle grease gun or similar. There is a small hole in the tip of the bar for grease gun. grease it often. While you have your grease gun out grease the needle bearings where you clutch is. To get to it pull the chain cover off and the round device the chain is driven by has bearing. In the center of the shaft coming out of the engine, the same shaft the clutch fits on, there is a small hole, put the grease gun in the hole and grease it.

drive shaft end couplings ,ignore till they start crunching in the straight ahead position ,No doubt the rubber covers are split of missing so strip the end off the shaft and put the end on a small bucket of diesel the tap the round ring down on one end so the ball bearing bearing comes out and repeat this till all 6 are out ,now twist the inner part so the arms are between to holes in the cage ,then turn this till it comes out now give it all a good clean and refit in reverse procedure ,but of grease in the bottom through the hole that the drive shaft goes into fit the new rubber boot over the drive shaft and the refit the coupling fit but more grease under the rubber ,refit the boot and job done .Its a easy job to do -MESSYAND MUCKY yes but a relativly simple job

I also thought the Pantech Ease had a front camera but what has been call a front facing camera by some is actually a sensor that detects when you have the phone up to your ear.

The sensor is that small round hole you see under the glass just to the left of the ATT logo and the ear speaker. Try making a phone call to your voice mail. You may not have noticed that the screen goes black when you place the phone next to your ear during a call. (this helps save battery life) During the phone call take the phone away from your ear an in 1 or 2 seconds the screen will come back on with menu options for features you can use during a call.

Now test the sensor by placing your finger tip over the sensor hole. The screen will instantly go blank. Remove your finger and the screen comes back on. Put your finger on the glass to the Right side of the ATT logo and the screen will stay on because that hole on the Left side is the sensor.

Like I said before, some sources describe that sensor as a camera which is only half true. Unfortunately I was also fooled by this misinformation. I was hoping to have a front facing camera to use with Skype. I was a fool to believe their hype.

Ensure the device is disconnected from any power source before taking any of it apart. The power button is held in by a little catch which can be accessed by a small hole between the button and the vacuum body. Even if you can find something that fits down the hole it will be difficult to clear the latch. Once the button is out there is a torx screw holding the actual switch and wires down. The wires all have spade fittings inside plastic sheathes. Ensure the device is disconnected from any power source before taking any of it apart.

firstly clean all the shower holes with a needle tip. you can also apply some descaler on the shower. Cut an old cycle tube piece round to the size of shower head. Make a hole in the centre of the cutted piece.Apply some grease on the patch & place it between the shower & head. Tight it up.If there is not enough space for rubber just apply grease on the head & tight it.

If the boots are ripped on your lower ball joints you will need to replace them, rain water has washed away the factory lubricant they have no grease fitting from the factory. Replacements will come with grease fittings. Tie rod ends can also be the source of the noise, same deal no factory fittings. VERY COMMON PROBLEM.

Remove rear panel, remove top cover,.tilt washer forwards, get someone to hold it for you, and fit belt round motor pulley first, then start feeding it round drum pulley, easing drum round at same time, it will be tight, so watch you fingers,
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the belt goes round the motor spindle at the bottom. tape belt to large pulley. tilt machine backwards and put belt over motor shaft and tape into position. start belt onto main pulley and turn it so belt eases on. it is a tight fit