If it's a dual voice coil, it will only work on one terminal, if its a single and there's little to no excursion of the cone when there is verified signal headed to the speaker... its dead
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sure, if you wish to wire them all together, wire the first dual voice coil subs first voice coil negative to 2nd voice coil positive, second voice coil negative to single voice coil sub positive, and single voice coil negative to 2nd dual voice coil subs 1st voice coil positve (again with the second dual voice coil sub, run the first voice coil negative to the 2nd voice coil positve) your speaker leads will be attatched to first dual voice coils 1st voice coil positive, and 2nd dual voice coils 2nd voice coil negative)
Honestly man it sounds like you have burned up the voice coils inside the only way to fix it is to take it to a place where they specialize in fixing car subs.. And to be honest 80% of the time its just cheaper to go buy a new Sub. Sorry to hear that i know they arent cheap i burned up the voice coils in my 2 15" Kicker Comp CVR's and they wanted over 140$ to fix each one. And well to be honest after they tear off the factory glue whos to tell how long thiers will last. Hope this helps Dont forget to give me a good vote even though im sure you didnt want to hear that...
they best way to do this is with a multi meter on the OHMS setting.... to do this set the multi meter to the least ohms setting, usually it reads 20 or under. Connect the wires to each voice coil (by the speaker wire connections) if the multi meter reads 2 to 4 ohms whichever your speaker is, then the voice coil is not blown, but if it reads 8-10-12-14 or OL which means open loop then the coil in junk.
Ok..If each coil is say 4 ohms and you wire them in parallel you will obtain 2 ohms...in series you will obtain 8 ohms...remember..series resistors add together and parallel resistors(of the same value) divide...so if you were to wire all 4 voice coils in parallel, then you would obtain 1 ohm...or, if you were to series all 4 voice coils then you would obtain 16 ohms...a lot of amps are not stable down to two ohms..the way we did it old school was to parallel each speakers voice coils to obtain 2 ohms..and then we would series the 2 speakers in the box to obtain the 4 ohm load needed by the amp
Well the voice coil is a basic electromagnet. Electromagnet is a coil of wire, usually wrapped around a piece of magnetic metal, such as iron. there are many things need to keep in mind while replacing the voice coil like - wire size, length, type...... usually the speakers not works good after replacing the voice coils and replacing the speakers is the better option regarding money..... anyway you can please tell us the type or model of your speakers if you need more help or information........
If the tinsil wires all look good then chances are you broke a lead in the coil, the only way I know of to fix this is to order new voice coils and a new spider and replace them..
There are places on the web to order parts, you just need to take good measurments of the parts and relay them to the stores.
your best bet is to go onto www.the12volt.com and find the tab at the top that says subwoofer wiring diagrams. Next go to google and search for audiovox subwoofers and search through. You will definately have no issue if you find the model it will tell you the impedence of the subwoofer. 2 ohm dual voice coil, 4 ohm dual voice coil, 8 ohm dual voice coil. anyway it is a dual voice coil
i have a problem, i dont think my speaker is blown, but , it just looks like the wiring broke on the coil at the end that connects to the cone, i think thats how i can best describe it..its a 10" pioneer IMPP w/ integrated voice coil cooling system 500w max and also it looks like where the wires broke, the coil cam unglued from the cone.. hope someone can help me..is this something i can repair on my own or is it garbage?
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