Bosch 24 in. SHU66C05 Stainless Steel Built-in Dishwasher Logo

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david pliske Posted on Feb 26, 2014

Bosch shu66 starts at "199" on the cycle countdown on "regular wash" setting. all other settings appear to have the "normal" countdown on start up. ran the self test. no fault codes came back on completion.

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BIKER T

Terence Fourie

  • 909 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 08, 2007

SOURCE: Bosch SHE44C02UC digital display shows longer time for regular wash than power wash

sadly enough, same problem. looks as though micro processor is defective.

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A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Jun 09, 2008

SOURCE: Panel light flashes and ticks but will not run cycle

seems your flow switch is faulty

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 04, 2008

SOURCE: Bosch SHU43C

My SHU43C is just over 3 years old. I had a similar problem recently. First, there were a few floods. Then, the Bosch only drained non-stop. Even when I used the Cancel Drain buttons the drain pump would run without stopping. When I tried to run one of the cleaning cycles, no water entered the machine. Corrective: I removed the base plate, and saw that the red plastic floatation device was in the up position. Using a flashlight and a wooden spoon, I lightly toggled the red float stem down. I pushed regular clean cycle and kept toggling with the red float stem until the rinse water started to enter the machine (turning the red stem seems to also actuate a step in the program). Now the dishwasher runs normally. Voila!

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 31, 2009

SOURCE: Bosch diswasher detergent dispenser doesn't open during wash cycl

I've been told we can replace the dispenser. See AppliancePartsPro.com. Part AP2834000

Anonymous

  • 2605 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 31, 2010

SOURCE: I have a SHU43C05UC/22 Bosch Dishwasher. The

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Based on your description I'd say the issue is with the control...unfortunately.


The number"1" being displayed ( on models with the display like yours ) is actually an error code indicating a fault in the heating process.

Bosch has had a history of this exact problem I'm about to lay out for you and this is the first thing I'd be looking for if called out to service the unit with the symptoms you've described.

**B/S/H/ also issued a recall on certain models between 1999 - 2006 depending on the serial number so you may want to contact Bosch to inquire if yours is affected.**

http://microsites.boschappliances.com/safetyrecall/dishwasher/

or
Bosch dishwasher hot-line 1-800-856-9226
1-800-856-9226
Before calling, have the model and serial numbers on hand. A live operator can be reached at the hot-line 24/hrs day.

Those not affected by the recall still can be a problem but easily fixed. As I've alluded to the issue is likely within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ).

My first suggestion would be calling in an authorized bosch service tech. if that is an option for you and your budget however, If you feel capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself.

It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board.


dabfa62.jpg


The culprit will 99% of the times be one of the pins from the heater relay,


**Your control WILL differ in appearance, however the issue, the service and all the same info applies...except the part number. Yours will be # 431692**

26052ec.jpg


**Flip this over and inspect the solder joints, it will be obvious when you see it...the cover for your models control comes apart in a similar manner**

This is where and what to look for, except I`ve re-soldered this one already...

face585.jpg


...hence the unit sit`s and takes longer & longer to finish because it can`t heat to advance or unless the 2 buttons for "cancel" are pressed, other-times it will eventually stop or display "1".


You can also run the unit through a regular or econo cycle ...any cycle with the exception of rinse & hold, and with the door panel removed place an ammeter on the gray/black wire it should draw 11 amps during the wash cycle...after it fills and the flow switch indicates it has adequate water to engage the heater.

i.e.

f57273b.jpg
**My Opinion - if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...but it has to be done well...or it will not last, although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control ( # 431692 @ approx. $150 - $250USD...$167.99 at "searspartsdirect.com" ) and I don`t pretend to speak on their behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**

**Please disconnect the power or turn off the breaker before attempting any service to the dishwasher.**


If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau/Siemens, to service your machine.

Hope this answer`s your question, let me know if I can assist you further.

Thank`s for visiting "FixYa" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness.

Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

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Bosch Nexxt 500 washer - no fast spin post wash and rinse cycles.

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Bosch silence plus 50 dba has error code h01

The statement below can be found at: http://www.ehow.com/list_6978265_bosch-dishwasher-error-codes.html,

The SHU4326 and 4326 models use "Regular Wash" and "Rinse Hold" to begin the test while the other three series in this section use "Scrub Wash" and "Delicate/Econo," but all use the same set of fault codes, shown not as lights but as numbers on the Cycle Countdown display. Here, 1 is an aqua sensor fault, 2 is a heating fault, 4 is a filling fault, 8 is an NTC fault and 0 means that everything is working as it ought. During an actual wash, when you aren't testing, the Cycle Countdown display may show the letter "F," which also signifies a filling fault.

Read more: http://www.ehow.com/list_6978265_bosch-dishwasher-error-codes.html#ixzz33JutQVQR
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Controller, door interlock and motor replaced. Unit comes on, but does not operate.


Hello Dave,

Welcome to FixYa.

Try this test I posted below and let me know what error you find...if any.

To begin the test program, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO wash program buttons at the same time

as you turn the unit on by pressing the ON/OFF button. Initially, the control unit version number will appear in the display

(e.g./ 20 = version 20, 21 = version 21, etc.).


When the wash program buttons are released, the LED's above them will begin flashing. To end the test program or test cycle, press the ON/OFF button.


To check the wash program LED, press its corresponding button.


To check the Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent LED and REGULAR WASH button LED, press the REGULAR WASH button (press the DELAY START button to test the

Cycle Countdown display alone).


The Cycle Countdown display should show "88" when the DELAY START button is pressed and "8h" when the REGULAR WASH button is pressed.


To start the test cycle, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time.


When the test cycle has completed, the Cycle Countdown display will indicate a fault using the codes below. If a combination of faults exists, the code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ 6 = faults 2 + 4).


0 = No faults

1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault

2 = Heating fault

4 = Filling fault
8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault

email me at [email protected] and I can send you via a "pdf" of the diagnostic/repair manual for your specific Bosch...provided it is indeed a SHU5316 unit.

I`ll watch for your reply. Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

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Where is a cancel or clear button? I have the button pressed for regular wash and then I hit start, I then realized I wanted to do quick wash instead but I cant find the cancel or clear button.

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

If your machine is indeed an SHU66 series machine it should resemble the image here, with perhaps a different color...

ccdd88a.jpg
If you notice the two buttons pressed together should cancel the cycle and force a drain/end cycle.

For future reference, if you'd like to simply select another cycle after one has already been started, press the button applicable twice quickly and it will switch to that cycle.

Hope this answers your question. Let me know if your require further assistance.

Thanks for choosing FixYa, good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)
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Water won't drain

Do the diagnostic test:
SHU 53 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show “88′ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and “8h” when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor (“Sensotronic”) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4′ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0′, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8′ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
---------
The dishwasher not draining is most probably faulty drain pump or drain hose is got bit loose.It has to be checked and confirmed
.You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.
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The dishwasher has been running for 3 hours and seems to be stuck on 1 minute left. Upon opening, there was sudsy water remaining in the bottom, but the dishes looked clean. The washer just won't go to...

SHU 53 MODELS To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show ?88″ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and ?8h? when Delay Start button is pressed. To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4). 0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor (?Sensotronic?) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test) To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty. If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?4″ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won?t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show ?0″, water won?t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?8″ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
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Bosch SHU 6800 Water hot at sink only luke warm at the washer

BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added
together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating
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