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Not really no. There are kits available but all to often there are laws and standards for vehicles in which the conversions do not abide by. Make sure you research what is legal before attempting such, usually is not worth it.
well, its a 2003 LDC 13 years old ,
the monitor itself of the power pack to it is bad.
you can test it on any PC< or laptop made
if its dead on all , then its dead.
what more needs saying,
older LCD monitors had old CCFL, lamps. that love to fail
newer are LED back lights that last for ever. it seems
so up grade?
seems your back light is dead
ever do the flash light trick
shine it at the dead screen see good data
yes, then the CCFL is DEAD< (or its power supply ,deep inside)
fixed may but would never do a 2003, not now.
lots of used good LED for sale,
Hi, firstly dont think for a miniute that the black wire on your new light is the earth, using the battery as a power source put one of the wires to earth and the other to live, as the led light will only work if the power is conected to the rite pole it is important to establish wich of the new wires is earth, you may have to swap them around to get the correct order, and then conect each of the other wires to the batt poss to check the lite works,when you are happy you have the correct order you can fit it to the bike, on the kawasaki blk and yellow is earth , although you have 6wires they are only 3wires in the loom wich double up to 6 for the 2 bulbs in the lite unit, you can leave 1 of eah colour disconected,
The bulbs wear out with the gradual blackening of the bulb until it goes out. You need to change your bulbs. There are some made which will shine farther than the factory lights.
Just don't get confused with the advertisements of Imatation blue bulbs which are not really HID units. You can also get changes in color by looking at the K number which shows the light shifting from low K (yellow) to a higher K (White).
But there are some lights which are a little stronger to shine farther regardless of color. Go to a good parts store or do a Web search and read up on the bulbs. You access the back of the headlight and turn the bulb socket and it will come out of the fixture. Use a plastic sandwich bag or gloves to handle your new bulb when inserting into the socket.
If you have fogging in the clear lense you will benefit with a kit to polish them more transparent and it will help no matter which bulb you buy. I hope my solution has helped you.
The driver speaker cover comes off with Torx and after shining light through windshield, you will see two bulbs on a printed circuit film set apart from each other. You can reach them and twist and pull, clean contacts if bulbs not blown, replacement Sylvania 2721. There is also the reostat/dimmer knob that can be jiggled on dash, lower than the bulbs, each controling each bulb. I am in process of replacing mine with LED lights, which are brighter and come in colors as well. You just have to make sure the LED draws no more than 12 VDC as the alternator output is 14 VDC. Check out superbrightleds.com , there you will look for # 74 bulbs, which is same as 2721...I just came across the site today and thought, although your ????was a while ago, maybe this will give Saab Nation the ability to see at night....LOL
I have a 56" model that I have had a similar problem. My bulb burned out in <90 days. Warranty was 90 days on the bulb itself. When the TV picture goes out, the indicator LEDS blink on and off.
Here is what you have to determine:
1) First cover the left LED with a piece of paper so that you can't see it blinking. I don't know if your layout is the same as my TV. You may have to switch the paper blocking the LED.
2) Pay attention to the other LED and READ its' flashing code. In my case, the code was 2-3. It would flash 2 times, pause briefly, then flash 3 times. This meant code 23. That indicated the bulb was burned out.
3) If you look in the manual, It does have a code list of some sorts to tell you of the codes and their meanings. Hope this helps.