My chlorinator is not working. no water going to chlorinator. my pool keeps turning green because of lack of chlorine. The tube is full, however the same tablets are in the chlorinator for three months ago, indicating its not working. the water was tested and shows no chlorine.

Defiently need do get the stabilizer and alkalinity levels up. Stabilizer helps keep chlorine in the water from being burned off by the sun. The ph level makes the chlorine more effective and the alkalinity keeps the ph level stable. Get a sample
In to determine also if you have phosphates in the water eating up the chlorine.

You can try using shock or liquid chlorine and bring the chlorine level back to 3 ppm.. 1 small bag can treat up to 10,000 gallons.. After that, raise the cycle time on your chlorinator to maintain that level...
If you do not want to use those chemicals, raise your pump cycle time to 12 hrs and your chlorinator to 10 or 11 hrs and should see some results within a few days... The chemical method should yield faster results... Good luck...

There are 3 keys to a clean pool filttration, chemistry and circulation. I assume the filtration and circulation is ok and it sounds like you might have a chemistry issue. It is best to use a vinyl safe shock to initially bring the chlorine level up to about 10 ppm. In order to keep as much of that chlorine in the pool as possible another chemical, stablizer needs to be to a level of between 20 and 50 ppm. If you don't have enough stablizer then the sun causes a reaction in the water that causes the chlorine to evaporate faster than the chlorinator can replenish it and the pool goes green in about 2 days. Your pool supply store should be able to help you with stablizer. I hope this helps.

Is the water turning green because of metal or because of growth? Is your salt water system making chlorine? If you are not making chlorine ... well that may be why you are green., On the other hand, if you have metal in the water and you ARE making chlorine, that is why you are green.

Please have your water tested for metal and if present, use the sequestering agent recommended by your professional pool supplier, to remove the metal.

A problem with the salt water system is the chlorine you make from the salt is not protected by cyanuric acid AKA stabilizer. I recommend you get your chlorine up to about 20 ppm (shock mode) using the kind of chlorine recommended (is compatable with the chlorine you are making) by your pool supply professional. Add enough cyanuric acid to achieve at least 60 ppm.

Let me know what you are doing ...

Thank you for your interest in FixYa.com

I'm not sure what this water is in. If it is a pool or spa, the solution is to add chlorine, chlorine, chlorine.
Gary

I found I had the same problem. I would set the hours, it would count them down but the green light would NOT come on indicating it was producing chlorine, yet the sleep light would light up after the count down so I knew the light was working. I checked my salt, made adjustments, had to do shock treatments to keep it clean. Today I  found out that the manual is incorrect in how it says to set it. After you set the hours, instead of pushing both the arrows at the same time until it beeps, push the down button until it beeps, and then the up button until it beeps. For 2 months I have fussed with this system, and finally the green light came on and my test strips indicate it is producing chlorine. Yeah! To bad intex does not seem to mention this on their web site.
Good Luck

although you may or may not have enough chlorine in your pool you must also realize that a pool need turned over at least 3 times a day.
an example is if you have 7000gl of water and a 2000gph pump you need to filter at least 10 hours or so.
More important than chlorine is the actual circulation of the water you can have all the chlorine in the world but if you do not have the circulation the water will become cloudy or green this also happens when you have no swimmers for days at a time


the filtration time is over and above the chlorine generating time your 4 hours a night for generating chlorine sound like you are guessing sometimes it may be 4 and sometimes 2 or 6
it depends on # of swimmers a day sun and what was in the pool to start

It is important to have a test kit for ph and chlorine and keep chlorine at 1.0to 1.5 now set your ph
ph will rise and fall with your chlorine level one you have them set good at the first time then ph should stay safe enough and re level as chlorine is kept right

also remeber that the wrong ph causes more problems than wrong chlorine levels

Also make sure your salt is no more than 3000ppm and no higher like some people recommend and no lower than 2500 test kits are available for 10 dollars

all of this can be found on intex.com either in a video or pdf files for water capacity and approximate time for generating chlorine.


to be sure always use test kits