I have been having problems with my Samsung RS265LBBP side-by-side refrigerator. The coils on the refrigerator side freeze up, I thaw them out, then in a couple of weeks they have ice build-up again. I have investigated this problem thoroughly and I believe that I may have a problem with the bi-metal defrost thermostat. I checked resistance of the bi-metal defrost thermostat at room temperature and after soaking in ice water. I got continuity at both room temperature and while soaking in the ice water. I know I should be getting continuity while the thermostat is cold in the ice water, but I believe I should be getting an open circuit while at room temperature. Since I am getting continuity instead of an open circuit while at room temperature is this part then defective, in need of replacement, and a likely source of my refrigerator evaporator coil icing issues?
SOURCE: Evaporator coils iceing over; warminhg on frig side of model 106....
As I said; the fan and compressor run fine but I cannot find the defrost timer. Is it integrated into the control board.
Thanks
SOURCE: Freezer gets cold, Refrigerator Hot
First, I think it’s important to know that the Ref side has no cooling coils, it’s basically a box and the cold air in the freezer is blown over by a fan through a channel into the Ref side. This channel has a door which regulates how much cold air goes through. You probably have two control knobs in the Ref side, one controls the temp with numbers 1-9, 9 being the coldest. This temp control tells the compressor how long to run. The other control is for that little door and it may have letters A-E, E being the coldest. If you set it on E (coldest) then this will close that little door and keep most the cold air in the freezer.
Now, why is that cold air not getting over to the Ref side?
1. The little door is not open.
check your control setting. You can't see the door but, you should be able to feel air coming through the channel on the Ref side.
2. The fan in the freezer is not working.
You can hear this fan running when you open the freezer.
3. The coils on the freezer side are clogged with ice which won't let the fan circulate the air over to the Ref side.
This is a failure of the defrost system which consist of the defrost timer, heater, and thermo disc.
Also, If you replaced the evaporator fan then you got a good look at the cooling coils. Look at these coils while it is running. There should be a light coat of frost on all the coils. If this frost line is only 3/4 or 1/2 or any amount less than full coverage of the coils then the system has a coolant leak.
Directly under these coils is the drain pan and drain hole in the middle. This area should be clear of any ice or debris.
SOURCE: ICe build-up on coils and frezer does not freeze after a few weeks from thawing.
Check the defrost timer which may be behind the kick-plate, inside the control panel or an Adaptive Defrost Control (motherboard) on the back.
SOURCE: evaporator coil freezing, replaced main control
It is possible you have a defective fan motor in the condenser area or evaporator area. Sometimes when they become defective they will run for a while and just warm up and stop while the compressor continues to run. I learned that one on four costly returns to the home. The cost was to me not the customer. Thanks, Sea Breeze
SOURCE: Why do freezer coils ice up on my Stainless Steel Whirlpool refrigerator (model GB2SHDXTS)?
On your model your cntrl board has a relay that can stick causing the compressor to always run even when the unit is turned off or in defrost. turn the fridge off, move the temp of the freezer to it's warmest setting and it should display a line in the freezer and fridge temp display. listen to hear if the compressor is running in back of the unit. if it is you need part number: 12868513
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Just figured out that it is the thermo-fuse on the refrigerator side.... part DA47-00095E. Getting infinite resistance when I check with ohmeter.
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