Lights flickering lights flicker, and pan doesnt heat correctly

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAVABiCe6ew
If your light bulbs are flickering, turn off the power and using a glove to protect your hand from heat, screw the bulb in tighter. Loose light bulbs mean the socket isn't making proper contact with the bulb, and that can cause intermittent flickering. Even recessed lights can loosen, so check those connections first.


https://www.cnet.com/how-to/flickering-lights-check-these-common-culprits-first/

If you're referring to the cavity light, it's possible the bulb is just loose in its socket. The cover has to be removed to access the bulb.

It has a tiny motor turning the "flickering flame" if you open the back you will see what looks like a rotisserie spit. If that little motor stops or gets stuck your flames will stop. I sprayed a little WD-40 on mine and started it by hand.

Well it could be an oil pressure problem, or a faulty oil pressure switch, or something in the wiring harness.
I would have the oil pressure checked with a mechanical gauge.

There may be a misunderstanding here.
Yes the warning light comes on when the oil pressure drops below 5psi.
If the light comes on and the switch is working correctly, the oil pressure is not good. Any problem with the pump or the screen would make the pressure not good.
If the oil pressure has been checked with a mechanical gauge and it is above 20psi, the switch or the wiring could be faulty.
You would need to have the pressure checked to know.

OH is the overheat code.

Your spa temperature is set above 108, or your thermostat is faulty & not reading correctly.

If the warning light for your heating and cooling system is coming on, you need to take it to a good mechanic to check it out before something worse happens. if lights are just flickering, you could have an electrical problem/wiring problem. You will also need a professional to look at this in my opinion.

This is a 3 pole switch
Black = Hot or Load
Green = Ground
Brown and Red are travelers.
Link to proper literature regarding this switch:
http://solutions.cooperwiringdevices.com/webDB/documents/cwd%20residential/instrSheets/469MT-PTA%20(REV.%20A).pdf

There is a sensor on the driver side on the oil pan. Either the sensor is bad, or has bad connection or you are a quart low.

I had a similar failure with my Braun WK600. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettleful's; so far so good!

Oh, and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault.