Question about Asko 24 in. D3350 Dishwasher

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Asko D3330 F2

Hi, fault showing F2, powered off and on, no programs showing but machine still wants to work?
Last cycle, and there was a blockage in the drain as it pumped out.

Posted by statusquo on

  • Anonymous Apr 02, 2009

    We have spent $670 replacing the processor board and the inlet valve and still get F2. The tray is dry and the repairman is useless. As are ASKO and solving the problem. Now suggesting we spend even more money to replace a pressure valve. HELP

  • Anonymous Mar 31, 2014

    fixing an F2 fault



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Douglas Henry

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There is water in the pan below the unit. You will need to take apart the lower section of the dishwasher behind the toe kick and suck out the water, or just wait for it to evaporate (few days) Good Luck!

Posted on Nov 06, 2007


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Kenwood KID60B12 Dishwasher F2 Fault code

it seems you a blockage.. can you hear the pump running?if you can you will need to unstop it I have done it with just a cloth hanger coming from the front in put side

Jan 01, 2016 | Kenwood KID60B12 595 mm Stainless Steel...


My washing machine does not drain.


Parts that may be faulty are drain pump, pressure switch, and timer board. Clogged drain lines and faulty pressure switch are the most common faults.

The first step in fixing the problem is accessing the back of the appliance and checking the drain hose. Disconnect power before moving the appliance. Ensure that the drain hose is not blocked, kinked or bent.

Next step is accessing the hose connected to the drain pump, or the drain filter if present, and removing eventual blockage.
The pump access is located behind the kick plate at front side usually behind a panel(on front loaders) or at the back bottom side of the machine, depending on the make and model.
Instructions to remove drain blockage are usually illustrated in the use and care manual. Power must be disconnected before accessing the pump hose.

If there is no blockage in there, then the pressure switch can be tested jumping its contacts and running a controlled cycle. Sometimes a jammed pressure switch can be fixed by blowing into the rubber hose connected to the switch.

The pump is simply tested by energizing it. If the pump is working and the rest is also fine, the last part to test will be the timer board. The timer board must be replaced only when all the rest is tested and resulted OK. The electronic control test consists in reading voltages while the machine is operating.

Some of the testing described above is suitable for a trained technician. For safety reasons it is better that the user only performs tests that can be done with power not connected.
Always disconnect power cord or trip the circuit breaker before performing maintainance operations.

If you need to contact a qualified technician, call the phone number listed on the owners manual.

To find parts click on the link below, select distributor and enter your model number.

Parts and diagrams

on May 24, 2010 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Water drains but spin will not spin

This can be due to problems in the program cycle as it seems to over ride the program.
This can also be due to fault in the program controller unit , please try this with a separate program, also clean the drain , check the connections to the controller, check for fault in the level sensor.

Jan 01, 2013 | Washing Machines

2 Answers



The drain pump does not fail very often. If you are sure that the pump does not start check first the pressure switch and the lid switch. The pressure switch is the sensor that determines when to start stop the drain pump. The switch is difficult to test. Try first cleaning the pressure hose connected to the switch. The lid switch is checked before entering in the last part of the cycle. Lid switch can be tested reading impedance at its contacts or jumping it. Check it just in case. If all that is OK check pump motor and control unit.
If you are not sure if pump is starting or not check for drain blockage at pump and at drain nose. Blockage is the most common cause for drain problems.



Sep 20, 2011 | Frigidaire GLWS1349A Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Stops during both wash and dry cycles shows error E20 any ideas

hi e20 is fault code for not draining efficiently either a blockage in the pump or hoses to or from it. can also be a blockage under the sink if its connected by way of a spigot to the waste. If not any of them the pump is faulty and needs replacing.

Jan 22, 2011 | Zanussi Washing Machines

2 Answers

My Zanussi zwf1650w comes up with a message draining 0 0 after about 30 seconds of starting a wash cycle. The machine the stops and bleeps saying cycle ended, is there a solution to fix this?

zanussi zwf1650w washing machine. when starting any program after a few seconds machines stops and shows draining 0.0. have done diagnosis test and shows fault E91 & E48 fault codes also shows E34 code. any help much appreciated.

Nov 05, 2010 | Zanussi ZWF1650W Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Water won't drain

Do the diagnostic test:

To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show “88′ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and “8h” when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor (“Sensotronic”) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4′ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0′, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8′ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
The dishwasher not draining is most probably faulty drain pump or drain hose is got bit loose.It has to be checked and confirmed
.You can get required parts from
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Aug 27, 2010 | Bosch 24 in. SHU53 Built-in Dishwasher

1 Answer

Asko 3350 F2 fault meassage keeps flashing

you have a blockage try the drain spigot under the sink or the pump may be blocked.

Apr 23, 2010 | Asko 24 in. D3350 Dishwasher

1 Answer



check water pump for blockage .faults

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