Outputs are not working

Very likely the power amp output transistors are shorted and need to be replaced. The fuses provide power to these transistors. To verify this diagnosis, (with the speakers disconnected and the unit unplugged, of course!), check for continuity between the fuse terminal and the speaker output at the amplifier board (before any protection relay). If you have continuity (< 1 ohm resistance), the transistor is bad. Most power amplifiers have one transistor to the DC+ power supply and another to the DC- power supply. Both are connected to one speaker terminal, and the other speaker terminal goes to power supply ground. If one transistor shorts out, it overloads the other transistor and fries it as well. Even if it tests good, it's probably been damaged and is likely to short and ruin the new transistor, so replace both at the same time. The foregoing holds true if the output transistors are inside a power amp module.

Note: check your speaker wiring (both ends) after repairing the amplifier. A stray strand at the speaker connector shorting to the other terminal or ground can destroy the output transistors. I once had a customer who had too much bare wire exposed on the ends of his speaker wire. It was fine until his wife turned the speaker upside down during cleaning and twisted the bare wires together (and forgot to right the speaker afterwards). He bought fuses and transistors ...

The output transisters for that side are probally blowin,

To get "surround" sound, when you face the computer, you will have:
* 2 front speakers, one immediately on each side of the computer
* 2 side speakers, one on each side of your head
* 2 rear speakers, one behind each side of your head

Thus, when the sound is of a jet-plane coming towards your face,
you'll first hear the sound in the front speakers,
then in the side speakers,
and finally in the rear speakers,
to produce a sound-effect of the jet passing over your head, and going "behind" you.

Usually, for "front" speakers, one speaker connects to the other speaker, and the second speaker connects to the "FRONT-audio-output" connector on your sound-card.

For side speakers, one speaker will connect to the LEFT-side-audio-output port,
and one speaker will connect to the RIGHT-side-audio-output port.

For rear speakers, one speaker will connect to the LEFT-rear-audio-output port,
and one speaker will connect to the RIGHT-rear-audio-output port.

The amps are located inside the radio. Most in-dash receivers that provide for "pre-amp outputs" also called "low level outputs" do so by providing female RCA type jacks. These are often found at the end of a short (4 - 6 inch) cable and are usually color coded red & white or red & black (some receivers provide a yellow RCA jack for video in / out, too). To use these RCA audio jacks, you need to realize that one jack is for the left channel source and the other is for the right channel source for a stereo signal. You will have to connect a compatible plug and cable of enough length to extend to a remote amplifier's RCA input jacks. The vehicle's speakers would also need to be connected directly to the same amplifier's output terminals. Using the two audio (left and right) RCA jacks will only allow the radio to control balance of the left and right audio, no fader (front and rear) control is possible. To get fader control, you'd have to either have a radio with four RCA low level output jacks (front L & R *and* rear L & R), or use the radio's speaker (or high level output) wires and connect them to the amplifier's speaker (or high level) input terminals.

All unused receiver wires should be terminated in a wirenut or securely wrapped in electrical tape to prevent accidental contact with grounded metal or other wires behind the dash.

I hope this helps!

audio board located inside the mainboard console to the right trace your speakers wire to bd, disconnect the three leads, 3 phillips screws, and examine bd for burns. If yes, ebay the board id for a replacement.

1. connect:Both Ground (copper wires) with Green wire
2. Connect Red with Blue and
3. Connect White with Yellow
This will give Stereo Output.

try the balence. if no joy. try the cable if you have a meter also see if the cable and see if the cable has been reversed???????

I am working on one right now, it has blown output transistors and several upstream transistors and burned resistors as well. This channel of the amp will need a rebuild.

Use a volt meter and, with black lead on the chassis, check the voltages at the 3 conductor connectors going to the board at the rear speaker terminals. These are the outputs coming from the amp and if there is voltage on any of these (unit at idle, no volume), the protection circuit will keep the output from getting to the speakers. High voltage here means blown amp, most likely.

feel free to contact me regarding the repair... www.irebuildmarantz.com

disconnect any input cable and test-----------if you still have a problem connect your right speakers cables(which supposed to be good)instead of left speakers cable and test------ if the problem solved you will have a problem in left side(cables or speaker)-------if not solved you will have a problem in your amp it self. and needs hardware repair.

Have you checked the on-board fuses?

Did you confirm (with a multimeter) that you have voltage on the B+ and remote terminals of the amplifier?

Did you have the black meter lead on the ground terminal of the amp when you checked the voltage?