Wire shorting out

Not easy to explain. The capacitor is split, it has two values, or like two capacitors connected internally with a center tap between them. Two capacitance values, maybe 5uf and 20uf, the lower value for the fan motor and the higher for the compressor, with terminals C-common, F-fan, M-compressor.
Capacitor terminal C is the center tap and that takes 3 connections, line (power) - fan line common to capacitor, and Compressor line common to capacitor. Notice the fan and compressor have a power line not common to capacitor, just power line.
Capacitor terminal F has one wire connecting to Fan terminal C, fan may have three or four terminal writes, two for power with one power being common to capacitor connection and the other power alone, two power connection wire leads. Fan motor third line is capacitor, connects to the capacitor alone. Four wire configuration fan motor is not likely your needs. Omit or ask again for further explanation.
Compressor is similar to fan, only with a capacitance value higher than for tha fan motor. Two power leads, one straight power, the other power lead connects to the capacitor power. The third compressor lead connects alone to the capacitor.
The with is to draw a diagram and level the colors of each lead and terminal lavels too. The motors nameplate may indicate wire color code, the a-c nameplate wiring diagram may be present in the control wron wiring compartment, the goal is to find clues or to trace each wire and verify what they connect or do, take notes on your drawing.
Basically the motor has three terminals, L1 - L2 - C, or C- S-R (Common, Start,Run)

What is the model number of the heat pump? What is the voltage that you are dealing with?

Hi Augie, I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem.

First, a couple of notes. You must provide GFCI protection for a fixture (light, fan, etc.) in a shower under any of the following conditions: 1) If the manufacturer specifies this protection in this location (nearly every fan in a shower requires this protection), 2) If the local / state electrical code requires it (the National Electric Code does not have such a requirement) and 3) If the local wiring inspector requires it. You can argue with the inspector if there is no local / state requirement - but is usually not worth the effort.

Next, cautionary notes: Nuisance tripping of GFCI devices have nearly been eliminated in newer fixtures and small motor loads. Some older fluorescent fixtures and larger motor loads may cause some trouble - but that's about it especially if an inspector is requiring the protection (this happens pretty often). If a newer light fixture is tripping a GFCI device - something is wrong. This should be fully checked out before powering it again. There is a very real potential for shock or burns under the right conditions. Use extreme caution here. Maybe a new fixture is in order??

Finally, to your question. Most GFCI outlets have LINE and LOAD terminals. This means that anything connected to the LOAD terminals will have the benefit of GFCI protection. The line terminals however, are not protected.

If you connect the circuit that you do NOT want to have GFCI protection to the wires that will be connected to the LINE terminals, no GFCI protection will be afforded to them.

The circuit that you DO wish to have GFCI protection should be connected to the LOAD terminals. Since you can not secure two wires to a terminal, you will need to connect a short length (8") of insulated wire to each of the line terminal screws (silver and gold screws) and connect the other end to the wires that supply power to this GFCI outlet *and* the wires that will provide non-GFCI protected power to the light fixture through the switch; with wirenuts.

Basically, the jumper from the outlet to the switch can not come from the LOAD terminal - instead it must come before the protection - from the wire that brings "hot" power to the LINE terminal side. The same holds true for the white neutral wire that connects to the fixture; it can not come from the LOAD terminal - it must come from the wire that brings "neutral" power to the LINE terminal of the GFCI outlet.

I hope this helps and good luck! If you have more questions - ask away.

Hi, if the first 35 uf run cap shorted, you most likely have a shorted to ground compressor. This is what causes them to burn out.A 35uf, x 440 volt run cap is for the compressor only. You should or will have a smaller one for the out door fan.1 lead from the contactor feeds one side of the capacitor, energizes it. The S wire also plugs into that same terminal. Then the R or run wire from the compressor, and C will go to the other side to start it. The 2 left ove have to be commons to feed other componants, you will need to follow them to see, as I can't pull up any diagram for that model. You need to have the compressor ohmed out, or checked to see if it is shorted to ground. To do this, remove the 3 wires to the compressor terminal. Make sure the power is off! If you have a voltage tester that has the audio alert for checking fuses and so on, touch the black lead to a clean spot on the compressor of copper line, and tough each one to each terminal. If you get a beep, it is shored to ground, and you will need to replace your compressor. Do this check and let me know.
Shastalaker7
A/C, & Heating contractor

check the line (wiring) from the bulb socket through the fuse box. there must be a burned wire hitting another it happened to me once

or the fuse socket itself might be loose. doesnt have much spring to snug the fuse terminal

The capacitor has two terminals. One is + and one is - . Your Amplifier has three terminals on the power connector. One is connected by a Black wire connected to the body or - of the battery, the second is a Blue wire connected to the remote wire of the Head unit ( for remote ON/OFF of the Power Amp ). The third is the Red wire connected to the + terminal of battery through a big Fuse .
Connect the Capacitor + to the terminal with the Red wire and Connect the Capacitor - to the terminal with the Black wire. Make sure you use heavy cables to do the connection and try to keep the length of the interconnecting cables as short as possible ( to minimize losses ). In other words try to connect the Capacitor as close as possible to the Power Amplifier for maximum efficiency.

This microwave has three door interlock switches and a fuse that are easily replaced by the consumer. Unplug the microwave. Remove the cover by unscrewing the 5 screws on the cover. Four are on the back, one on the lower right. One or more of the screws may be torx T15S (security)(bit available at hardware stores). As in all microwaves the capacitor should be discharged by shorting the cap terminals together. Note that the three switches are in a single black plastic carrier. Remove the two screws securing the carrier and the switches can be released by hand. Replace one at a time so as not to confuse the wiring which is push on spade terminals. Replace the fuse with a 20 amp 125v slow blow (radio shack). Do not plug in power until all the switches are reinstalled as a safety feature will cause the fuse to blow again. If fuse blows repeatedly it is most likely that all three interlock switches are not closing properly. Check to make sure that all switches are seated correctly in the black plastic switch carrier and that the 2 carrier screws are tight. Observe the switches as the door is closed. Replace switches and/or carrier as needed. While the cover is off you may want to clean off the fan and/or replace the bulb. Also check for proper seating of the control board connections.

usually capacitor,burnt wires or bad compressor.kill the power and check the terminals at the compressor.they have been known to burn off if the connection is loose.

there is no such thing as a main battery fuse.
seems like a wire has come undone under the dash and shorted your car out.

The two terminal cap is only for the new fan motor. Connect the compressor wire back where you found it, on the 3 terminal cap. It's the terminal marked, "herm". The "common" terminal on the 3 terminal cap must still be connected to one side of the 220 power at the contactor. One side of the 220 goes to the common on the compressor. The other side of the 220 goes to the run winding on the compressor AND the common terminal on the 3 terminal capacitor.