One amp dies.. then revives

If you have a little electronic know how... it can be a blown capacitor in the speaker. If you find it, solder a new one in and turn the volume down in the future. And look around for any signs of burnt insulation. Trunk amps are notorious for being insufficiently wired for power.

First disconnect the CD head unit from the sub amp and see if the other amp works. If yes, the problem is the wires to the amp, the amp itself, or the subs/sub wiring. If no, the problem is the head unit--probably an internal short.
If the other amp works with the sub amp disconnected, reconnect the sub amp to the head unit, but disconnect the sub wires from the amp. Try the CD player. If the amp goes to protect with no speaker wires attached, the amp is bad. If the amp is OK, the problem is the subs or sub wires. Hook the wires up to the amp again, but disconnect them from the speakers. Try the player again. If the amp goes to protect, the problem is the amp wiring. If not, the problem is the subs. Check the impedance of each sub using an ohmmeter to determine which amp is out of spec.
Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using Fixya.

Possible but highly unlikely. You cant check them to be sure if not, check to see if the amp for your subs has a phase switch on it. Also check to see if is has a bypass EQ and change it to a lower setting (low pass filter). Good Luck.

Yes. It should sound good.
Try in the trunk, facing the back of the seats.
A simple Infinite Baffle/Free Air setup, should work fine.

ok here is how it goes power wire from the battery all the way to amp..then ground wire from amp to a good ground on car then the remote wire which you have to run from the amp to the back of your stereo which in most cases is blue then hook subs from the sub box to the amp

from the rc converter i connected to the rear speakers taking both positive (left and right) to the positive on the factory speakers, then done the same with the negative (left and right) to the negative of the factory speakers. i connected with a quick connect. then from the converter to the amp using rc's. since my battery is in the trunk, the only wire i had to run through the car is the remote wire from the radio to my amp and then my subs to my amp.

If you disconnect the speaker wires from the speaker terminals on the amp and the amp still goes into protect mode, the amp probably has shorted output transistors. If that's the case, the amp is probably not repairable. The outputs that Sony used were discontinued and there are no other transistors that will work properly (unless some of the newest transistors are compatible).

If it's under warranty, contact Sony. If it's out of warranty, contact one of the authorized Sony service centers to see if they can help. They may have a supply of NOS parts that would work.

Hi,

First of all you need to check if your amp can support this type of speaker setup? If you are simply going to wire 2 subs up to the amp (assuming a 2 channel amp) it's pretty simple. Just connect the + & - cables to one channel of the amp & the other ends of the cable to the sub, making sure that they are the correct polarity on both sides (ie speaker & on the amp).
If on the other hand you want to 'daisy chain' the subs onto one channel of the amp (this effectively drops the load down to half that of the speakers (usually 2 Ohm)), then you do as the name suggests. Simple connect one speaker cable to the amps channel 1 + ve output to subs_1 +ve input. Then from sub_1 -ve connector to subs_2 +ve. This leaves you with only 1 more to connect sub_2 -ve back to amp channel 1 -ve.

NOTE: make sure that your amp can support this first! If it can't then it's will auto switch off in most cases but can also damage the amp if there is no fail safe circuit built in.

A dual voice coil speaker can be wired to be a 2 ohm speaker or an 8 ohm speaker depending on whether you wire it in series (8 ohm) or parallel (2 ohm). When you bridge your amp then the two channels will share the load from your speaker. If the speaker is wired as 8 ohm then each channel of the amp is driving a 4 ohm load which is fine. If you are bridged into a 2 ohm speaker then each channel will be driving a 1 ohm load, which is a very very heavy load. Is your amp designed to drive a 1 ohm load? If not then that would explain why you are having a problem.

Are you certain you put the wires back on the amp the exact way they came off. I am not familiar with this amp but most amps if you look at the terminals where the speakers hook up there will be a plus and a minus. And generally there are four terminals. hence stereo plus and minus left and right. Some even have eight for, four channels. Since the amp is on, not getting hot and you tried two different audio inputs I would suspect speaker wiring or maybe the stuff you put in your trunk bumped a switch on the amplifier. I know this is not the exact answer you are probaly looking for but it is at least a place to start