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Danby dmr1706we will not cool lower than 40 degrees fareheit

No matter what setting above 5 will it cool lower than 40 F or 4.5 C. It seems to cycle into defrost mode all to often. Not sure where to locate defrost timer or type used or locate the temp sensor that controls the defrost cycle. Fridge was purchased in 1997. All help greatly appreciated.

Posted by djtunes on

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1665 Answers

SOURCE: danby silhouette wine fridge

http://www.danby.com/manuals/DWC512BL.pdf

Posted on Apr 14, 2008


Anonymous

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: 1) The fridge I

dont they have walmarts in ontario? or just unplug or set the temp of the freezer a bit higher ;) it'll defrost

Posted on Aug 04, 2008

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Michael Masters

  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer works fridge not cooling on a Danby Designer fridge

HI, you will need to inspect the compressor to make sure it is cycling in intervals. if the compressor is not cycling, this will confirm compressor failure. The evaporator fan blows cold air into the freezer and from there it vents into the refrigerator. Occasionally the vents between the freezer and refrigerator can become clogged with ice, food or other debris. In most refrigerators the cold control for the refrigerator opens and closes these vents. That mechanism may become inoperative resulting in the vents becoming stuck open or closed.

Inspect the vents to determine what is preventing the free flow of air. An overcrowded refrigerator or freezer may be the cause. In other cases the vents may need to be cleaned or ice melted away. To remove a build up of ice, use a hair dryer set to "low". Using a higher setting may damage the freezer. CAUTION: Do not let melting ice drip onto the hair dryer. In some models, the vent is located under the temperature control console. The housing either snaps into place or is held in place with screws. Remove the screws, or gently depress the retaining clips with a small screwdriver. Allow the housing to hang by its wiring. A freezer vent control may also have to be removed to access the vent. In some freezer-on-top models, it may be necessary to remove the floor of the freezer to inspect for obstructions.

The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.

Another inspection point will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. thsi will cause the temperature to rise. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seal. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

Next will be the door switch. The interior light in most refrigerators, and the fan in some, is controlled by a door switch. When the door is closed, the switch is depressed and the interior light goes off and the fan resumes normal operation. If the door is misaligned or the switch malfunctions, the refrigerator may become warm as a result of the non-operation of the evaporator fan and the heat generated by the interior light. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to zero when the probes touch the terminals. With the probes still touching the terminals depress the switch, the reading should change back to infinity. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.

Be sure to confirm evaporator fan function as well. if the fan is defective, it will prevent proper cooling as well.

This will conclude the most common issue with a under preforming unit. I would advise to check all the above and, if the unit continues to not cool after all the above adjustments are made, i will recommend replacing the cold control device and thermostat.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

Anonymous

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: danby kegerator not cooling

I just had the same problem. Mine was outside on the patio and the key pad on the front was the problem. cost me $2.27 plus shipping and it took me 5 minutes to fix call Danby back and wait on the phone for their parts and tell them you need the keypad sticker. Good Luck

Posted on Aug 07, 2009

Virgil Watts

  • 233 Answers

SOURCE: Defroster comes on every time fridge starts

Defrost timer may be bad stays on all time try pulling one wire off the timer and see if it starts without defrost on

Posted on Jul 16, 2010

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Fisher and Paykell E522B icing


The thermistor sets the defrost cycle. Always go with the cheapest solution first but also ohm out your heater that could be the issue also.

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Defrost is stuck in one all time it not cooling or freezing


A DEFROST TIMER is a cycling device, it times the frequency and duration that the defrost heater coils melt the ice that builds up around the evaporator coils. If ice is allowed to build up, air will not be able to freely flow past them - resulting in reduced efficiency and sometimes a drastic warming of the cooling unit.

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Most of the time, the defrost timer is in the cooling mode, allowing the compressor to activate when the thermostat signals it to. The remaining part of the cycle (usually less than 30 minutes)the timer is in defrost mode. In this mode, it signals the defrost heaters to melt the ice build up on the coils. This defrost action is limited by the defrost thermostat. If your DETROST TIMER go to bad, one symptom would be if your refrigerator is not cooling. Although there are many causes of this symptom, A stuck defrost timer can be one of them. The timer can get stuck in cooling (compressor activated) or defrost mode (defrost heaters activated) for usually two reasons:
- The timer motor can fail for one.
- The gears can also become locked up.

No matter what the reason is or which mode the defrost timer gets stuck in, the refrigerator can stop cooling. When the refrigerator is stuck in defrost mode, the compressor no longer comes on to cool the unit. If the timer gets stuck in cooling mode, the evaporator coils never get a chance to defrost, causing ice build-up to the point where there is a complete blockage of airflow past the coils.

The defrost timer can also cause the refrigerator to stop cooling due to failure of the internal switch which activates either the compressor or heater coils. Finally, when doing any repair on a refrigerator, check the condenser coils for dust buildup and clean accordingly.

According woth yur brand and model, look the part replacement in this link: partselect.com/refrigerator+test-defrost-timer+repair.

Good luck.

Jul 16, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Can i install a time temp. type defrost control instead of the demand defrost type in the above unit? also i see no reason for the fan control board (low to High speed) since the fan motor does not call...


Defrost timer might be more reliable here in NY I set them @ 45minutes..The fan speed is out side tempature (ambient) selected ,low speed, running when its cooler out but you still use cooling.HIGH speed being the default speed.High/low during spring and low all winter.If your new motor is only one speed power it direct from the contactor

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MY intergrated NEFF fridge is not getting cold. I have power (as the light comes on) but it does not seem to be chilling-what could this be?


Hello,

If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

I hope the above helps.......

Good luck.

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1 Answer

My defrost system is not working. How do you check the defrost timer and the thermostat disk ?


The defrost thermostat electrically closes when the temperature is below 40 degrees F and opens when it is above. You can check it with an ohmmeter and it should read close to zero ohms when the temperature is freezing and infinity when it senses temperature above 40 degrees F.

The defrost timer typically runs the compressor for 6 hours then turn off the compressor and powers the defrost heater from about 30-40 minutes then the compressor is powered once again. The timer typically fails be not advancing causing the refrigerator to either stay in defrost mode, or in cooling mode. To check, turn the cam until you hear a click. With the refrigerator plugged in, it should turn off the compressor and power the defrost heater for 30-40 minutes. If the compressor does not turn on after 40 minutes, then the timer is bad and needs to be replaced.

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It doesn't and shouldn't matter as all fridges with a mechanical defrost timer will run through a complete refridgeration and defrost cycle according to the manufacturer's factory design.

It doesn't have to correlate to your local time, since all defrost cycles for self-defrosting units operate based on the manufacturer's specs for how often the unit needs to go into a defrost cycle to prevent ice build up in the freezer.

Your fridge will adjust properly, once it gets cold enough and begins the specified operation and pre-determined cooling and defrost cycling.

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1 Answer

Freezer is not keeping cold and forming icicles along wall


It may just be a defrost timer. Search online for information. There is plenty to be had. Check with the website of GE for a parts breakdown or your manual if you still have it for the location of the defrost timer. You can turn it manually so it goes into defrost. Does the unit seem to be running all the time and never shuts off? If so that timer could be stuck in the cool mode and the evaporator is freezing up solid so air wont flow over it to properly cool. I've had two refrigerators I've had to repair that had defrost timer problems. One stuck in the defrost cycle and wouldn't turn on to cool, the other did what you are describing. It stuck in the cool cycle and wouldn't defrost you may need to manually bypass the cooling cycle several times to allow it to completely defrost. Usually it cycles in cool from 6,8 or ten hours and only stays in defrost for over twenty minutes. That should defrost it and allow it to start cooling again. If you notice that frost has disappeared inside on the wall replace the timer.

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The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
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2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.

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1 Answer

Frigidaire side by side model# FRS6LR5EW6


Sounds like a defrost problem or a plugged drain... to get it to work temporary defrost the freezer. Unplug the refrigerator, open the door and get a blow dryer and warm up the freezer. wait until the water stop dripping out or about 12 to 24 hours and then you can plug it back in . it will work for 2 to 3 weeks.

To unplug the drain.defrost the freezer .remove the back cover. Use a pipe cleaner to clear the drain. pour a few cups of hot water down the drain.

The defrost systems is:
HEATER-DEFROST
THERMOSTAT-DEFROST
Adaptive defrost control
Start with the adaptive defrost control board. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
Frigidaire - referance model FSC23F7DSB3
This product comes equipped with an Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A �d� in the freezer temperature window and �F� in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. �d� and �F� will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)

Heater / Thermostat
You will have to remove the back panel of the freezer to check the heater for and thermostat for continuity. Heater are the lease likely part to go bad... I always change thermostat and timers together.
let me know if this helps or we can chat if you need more help.

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1 Answer

I have side by side refig model GSS25JFMCWW.I have to manually defrost by shutting off refrig.This model has defrost cycle,what would cause this cycle not to work?


Defective defrost timer, heaters, or defrost thermostat. Locate the defrost timer, rotate the dial (clutch head screw) clockwise SLOWLY until you hear one click. That puts the timer in defrost. Wait 25-30 minutes and the defrost should happen. Normally the timer will shift back to the cooling mode after 18-22 minutes. If it does not restart after the 30 minutes your problem is the defrost timer. Rotate the dial SLOWLY a little more and it should go back into the cooling mode. If you followed the above instructions and did not get a defrost the problem is in the heaters or defrost thermostat.

May 26, 2008 | GE Refrigerators

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