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THE UNIT HAS MOLD BUILD UP IN THE EVAP COIL IT NEEDS TO BE CLEANED PROPERLY BY REMOVING THE FREEZER RACKS AND THE SCREWS IN THE REAR OF FREEZER COMPARTMENT THEN USE HOT SOAPY WATER IN A SPRAY BOTTLE AND CLEAN THE EVAP COIL AND MAKE SURE THAT THE DRAIN TUBE ISNT CLOGGED REINSTALL PARTS THEN TURN ON BOX CHECK TEMPARATURES. FOOD AND MOLD GETS INTO THE EVAP COIL AND MOVING DOORS AND FLAPS AND AIR PASSAGES CLEAN UNIT WITH HOT WATER AND BLEACH MIXTURE TO KILL MOLD SPRAY OUT ENTIRE BOX WITH MIXTURE OF SOAP AND BLEACH WATER AND RINSE COMPLETELY
It sounds like the ice maker is stuck in the harvest ( dump ) mode , in the area of mold heater activation . This area , heats up the ice mold to unfreeze the cubes , and keeps rotating to dump the cubes . This heater , gets hot enough to actually burn you if you touch the mold .
I would remove the 2 screws holding the ice maker , unplug from the ice maker receptical , and replace the ice maker .
Your drain tubemay be stopped up with ice at the upper end
because it drains too slow because it's stopped up at the lower end in the
evaporator pan under the unit at the floor. It can get dust and mold in it.
Once you get the ice out at the top a little pressure with a turkey basterwill usually clear it out. Flushing
it out with hot water and clorox may help.
Normally, when the temp of the icemaker gets to about 14 degrees F, the icemaker goes into the harvest mode, turning on the mold heater and attempting to eject the cubes. When the heater has warmed the mold sufficiently to release the cubes, the ejector can continue and push out the cubes, then the icemaker fills with fresh water to beging to make a batch of ice again. Manually starting the cycle as you have done only allows the cycle to start without the temp sensor seeing the 14 degrees. The mold heating generally takes a couple minutes. If your mold heater or the temp sensor are not working, you will have to replace the icemaker, as they are not available as a repair parts.
The drain should be located below the evaporator coils on
the lower back of the freezer.
Your drain tubemay
be stopped up with ice at the upper end because it drains too slow because it's
stopped up at the lower end in the evaporator pan under the unit at the floor.
It can get dust and mold in it. Once you get the ice out at the top a little
pressure with a turkey basterwill
usually clear it out. Flushing it out with hot water and clorox may help. Make
sure it drains quick enough to prevent refreezing.
Try cleaning out the drain opening with a pipe cleaner. Or use a turkey baster and force hot water into the drain. Rinse with a mild bleach solution to kill any mold. Another solution is to unplug the unit and let it sit for a couple of days to defrost completely. Sometimes during the humid summer the system just gets over burdened and doesn't defrost completely. This gets progressivly worse until you get this problem.
The heat in door frame is normal but undetectable when ref at normal temp. Definitely cooling problem. Google ref not cold enough to get help to solve problem. Never use any oil for it will not help also health problem if not approved to be used around food. Fan motor must be replaced for it will just keep stopping.
Either the fan motor has gone bad or the coils under the fridge are too dirty. Both will cause a no cool situation and cause this area to become too hot. Part of the coil runs thru the cabinet in this area to prevent sweating. This is a good indication of dirty coils or a bad/weak fan motor. If your fan was noisy I would replace it before it goes out completely. This excessive heat will lead to premature compressor failure.