Compressor won't come on I want to by pass thermostat

Please reply with Model number of bottom of AC unit ( upper) . Can be seen from inside usually. Thermostat model, plus if controls are at the ceiling assy or at thermostat on wall.

A good test method is buy a rco-410 hard start relay. Once you have it, cut an old plug off something and leaving the plug intact, splice the two wires at the cut end with the two wires on thet really that don't have metal ends. Once that is done securly, unplug the fridgem take the really off the compressor and hook up the home made compressor tester. Once plugged in if the compressor is good it will come on, it it doesn't it's bad. This works becuase you remove any variables that are present with the machine hooked up normal.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

I split this into 3 sections since I'm verbose.
1. Reasons to use it
2. Theory behind a/c and how it works
3. Steps you need to take

1. This is an easy method of reducing your FE losses due to A/C while retaining some of its benefits. I have to use my A/C when I'm dressed up in a shirt and tie as well as when my wife and/or baby are in the car, and I use this to keep everyone, including my wallet, happy.

2. Basic air conditioner theory: Your air conditining is operated by an engine driven compressor, then two "radiators"; a high pressure, hot one that is warmer than the outside air, and a low pressure, cold one that is cooler than outside air. Thermodynamically speaking, when the compressor does work on vaporized refrigerant to compress it into a liquid, its temperature increases. This is an adiabatic process. The high pressure refrigerant travels from the compressor to the condenser, which is in front of your car's engine-cooling radiator. Since it's now very hot, it loses energy to the outside air flowing through it. After losing energy, it travels to the inside of the car, passes through an expansion valve that allows a small amount of refrigerant to pass through. The refrigerant then enters the evaporator core, an area of low pressure. The liquid refrigerant evaporates, absorbing energy from the air inside your car, and then returns to the compressor.
Your compressor does not run all the time your car is on; it also doesn't run all the time your a/c is turned on. Most cars' expansion valves are thermostatic; they work to maintain a constant temperature within the evaporator core. If the expansion valve only allows a small amount of refrigerant through, the pressure in the high side of the system doesn't drop. A sensor detects this and disengages the clutch on your a/c compressor.
Therefore, if you do what you can to keep the evaporator core cool, you can decrease the percent of time your compressor is running.

3. What to do: Two things will allow you to keep your evaporator core cool and your compressor clutched off. First, always use the recirculate function on your climate control. Already cool, dry air flowing through the evaporator won't warm it up as much as warming fresh air from outside.
If your car doesn't have a recirculate switch, chances are that it has a "normal a/c" and a "max a/c". Use the MAX! This seems counter-intuitive, but since the recirculating a/c works better, it's labeled as such, and it's also more efficient.
Second, once you get your car to a cool enough temperature, adjust the blower fan to the lowest speed setting. You still get cold air blowing on you, but the smaller volume of air that flows through the evaporator, the cooler it will stay.
Using these two steps, you can have your a/c and afford to eat for dinner too

Motor start capacitor probably bad.

Hi,

A chest freezer is great for storing additional food that may not fit in your fridge freezer. If your chest freezer stops working, it's important to be able to troubleshoot it quickly so that food waste is kept to a minimum. Keep the following tips in mind if your chest freezer stops working.
Check the Electricity
If your chest freezer doesn't seem to be working at all, check the outlet that the freezer is plugged into. Unplug the chest freezer from the wall and plug something else in such as a lamp or digital clock. If the new appliance doesn't work either, you know the problem is with your outlet and not your freezer. If the appliance does work, you will need to refer to other troubleshooting methods.
Inspect the Relay
The relay is a component that helps power the compressor. It is housed in a plastic box with the motor terminals and the overload protector and is connected to the Compressor; the relay is the largest component in the box. Closely inspect the relay and make sure it is not burned out. The relay can also be tested using a multimeter. If you see any signs that the relay has shorted out, you'll will need to replace it. If the relay makes a rattling sound when shaken, this is also a sign that it has shorted out.
Examine the Compressor
The compressor is essential to the performance of your chest freezer. It is the motor that powers the entire cooling system and if your freezer has ceased to work, you need to check it. This unit is located at the back of the freezer and sits in plastic housing; it can be identified by its football shape.
You can tell that the compressor is broken if your relay is fine or if you hear a light hum followed by a clicking sound and silence. If your freezer is relatively new, it might still be under warranty and you could get a replacement compressor for free. If not, your compressor will need to be replaced by a professional.
Investigate the Thermostat
The fact that your chest freezer is not working could be down to the thermostat. This is the unit that regulates the temperature inside the freezer. To test your thermostat, remove the access panel on the side of the freezer. Next, use a screwdriver to remove the actual thermostat from the inside wall but do not disconnect the tube that runs from the unit into the freezer.
Set the range scale on Rx1 on your multimeter to test for continuity. If your multi-tester reads continuity, your freezer problem lies in another spot. If your multi-tester does not read continuity, it means your thermostat is not working and you will need to replace it. Remove the tube from the old thermostat and attach it to the new one. Screw the new unit into place on the freezer wall and make sure the tube is not coiled or kinked as this will prevent the new thermostat from working properly.
I hope this will help in solving the issues.....

Good day!!!!

When working properly, the thermostat turns the compressor on and off. Once the thermostat turns the compressor on, it will run until the temperature inside the refrigerator is lower than the setting of the thermostat. Make sure that the refrigerator has enough air clearance on all sides. Refrigerators with a condenser coil grid on the back of them need room to radiate the heat away from the coils.
Verify that the door light switch is working properly. Push the switch with your finger to verify the light is turning off. If the light stays on, it will actually warn the interior of the refrigerator. Fix or replace the switch if it is faulty.
Modern refrigerators that have a lot of storage and large freezer compartments run for longer periods of time. They also start and stop very frequently to maintain an even temperature. This is especially true if you have just put a lot of warm food in the refrigerator, or if it is very hot and humid. It can take several hours to get back to the cool temperature you have it set for after putting a large amount of food in it.
If the compressor is not shutting off when the temperature inside the refrigerator is cold enough, you may have a bad thermostat. You may also have the temperature set too high in the refrigerator. Try adjusting the thermostat to a lower temperature. If this turns the compressor off, you had it set too high. With the help of a refrigerator thermometer, you can find a more ideal setting that will keep your food cold, but not so cold that the compressor is always running. If raising the temperature setting doesn't help, it may be a problem with the thermostat and you will need to replace it.
If your thermostat is working properly, there's a chance that you have low levels of refrigerant in the sealed system. If this is where the symptoms lead you, you need to contact a professional appliance repair person. Only an EPA certified technician can legally work on a sealed system. If you attempt to do work on this system, you will void the warranty.
If this is a new refrigerator, it will run for a long time, almost constantly, before it gets cooled enough to stabilize the interior temperature. Allow up to 24 hours for it to stabilize. The refrigerator should be at least one half to two thirds full. This will help to maintain a stable temperature inside the unit. The cold items inside will help to keep an even temperature inside after the door has been opened and closed. Some people prefer to keep a lot of stuff in the refrigerator as ballast, even jugs of water. This helps to maintain temperatures inside so that when the door gets opened and closed often, it doesn't need to run as much to maintain the temperature inside.

I hope this information will be helpful...Thanks for using fixya...

Let it run for 24hrs. If no cold air check the amp draw on compressor,Then find the 1/16 inch line see if is hot. If not hot you have a bigger problem. I hope this helps

Possible that the gas pressure is down to low gas or leak on the system. Also it can be due to faulty thermostat, faulty compressor if the compressor is working all the time and reaching the set temperature. Also if the compressor is not cutting off this must be a suspect.

you have a broken wire somewhere.

new compressor ,its seizing up