My econofloss 3017SS is not heating

To be honest, it sounds like you purchased a secondhand, faulty appliance. Although it might be loose connections due to the move, the most likely issue would be the main board and due to the price of them, that is often a good enough reason to buy a new stove.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Whirlpool+gr478lxpq1+stove

Error messages are normally searchable, but not that one. Take it back or call out a Whirlpool Service engineer to diagnose, fix and set it up. It is a sorry tale and not an easy one to fix.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Whirlpool+gr478lxpq1+stove+AM71+UI42EEWET+107

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Hello. I looked carefully at the service manual for your unit--surprisingly, there is no thermal switch inline with the bake/broil elements. Usually, if the bake or broil elements pop, this blows out the thermal switch, killing power to the elements for safety. The main control board can get damaged due to the high current draw during a short-circuit. The part number for the main board is WB27T10008. The overlay(the decorative sticker with the button/names on it) numbers are as follows: almond WB27T10022, black WB27T10023, and white WB27T10021. I hope this helps you!

probally the heeting element

Thermistor or high limit switch has tripped; usually due to low air flow from lint build-up or vent blockage. OR, the heating element went bad and a new one can be ordered. In some cases, I have received new thermal switches with the element. It's a job getting the dryer apart and inspecting the element, but you need to know for sure before you have a fire or a control board failure.

It sounds like the people who changed the elements did not connect them to the correct wires. The thermostat seems to have no effect on the elements, and the light switch seems to have no effect on the light, explain this to them and that you think they fitted the elements directly onto the power input to the device, instead of the correct connections.

I'd check the control switch first, and the wireing and connections.

Possibly.... the only way I know to diagnosis this issue is with an amp meter in the circuit that heats the seats. Compare LH & RH seat heating current draw. If you find the pass seat is NOT drawing the same amount of current, further troublshooting is required. There are TWO heating elements installed in the seats -- seat bottom & seat back, and they are connected in 'SERIES'... so if either element goes/is 'OPEN', then it's component replacement time. There is a thermostat in the heating elements -- it regulates the seat temperature. One must isolate the two elements & check each one individually (seat bottom - checking resistance... and seat back - checking resistance). whichever one (or possibly both) are 'OPEN'. If you find resistance is normal (3 to 5 ohms), then the problem/cause may be in the switch (or its contacts). Using a test light (12 volt bulb), check for power (battery voltage) at the heating element connector to ground (chassis). If the bulb lights up, you know you have power at the switch and is sending it to the heating elements.

Hi,

The clean light blinking is due to a fault in heating the water, it could be several other things than the heat element. Here is a link to some instructions on how to reset the control so you can use the dishwasher, it also has a list of things that could have caused the not heating situation. Let me know if you have questions.

Blinking Clean Light

first you nead to unplug the dryer,next you nead to remove the vent hose,next you nead to remove the back panal and the power cord cover,on the left side you will see the heater housing,at the bottom you will see the heating element,there are four wires,the two at the bottom are hooked to the element,you nead to pull them off,the other two wires are hooked to the high limit switch,you nead to pull them off,next there are two 1/4"screws,one on each side off the heating element,remove them,now pull out on the bottom of element,with element removed,remove the high limit switch from old element and put it on the new element,take new element and put it back in the heater housing and replace the two 1/4" screws,you will see that the two wires that go to the element are biger than the two going to the high limit switch,put the two wires to the element,now replace the two wires to the high limit switch,replace the back panal and the power cord cover,replace the vent hose,plug power cord in and check element out.

inner element burned out. Either burner needs replacing or control switch is bad. Take out burner and see if coil has a break in it. IF not, then switch is bad. I cannot see your repyl due to some tech issue w/ the site, so it may be a day or so before I can reply again. Please leave feedback for me if appropriate. Thanks