Arm of Rock em Sockem robot in extended position....it is not rusted, but not sure I want to force the upper arm down 90 *

WARM WATER PERHAPS OR WARM AIR

There should be an upper spray arm to wash the upper rack, it may be stuck. Look at its position, run the machine a few seconds and see if it moved. The spray nozzles on the arm often get clogged with food particles. the pipe feeding the spray arm has to extend when you pull the rack out and retracts when you push it in. Make sure it works properly and has not disconnected.

With your dishwasher empty, roll out the bottom rack. The feed line for the upper spray arm runs from a pump outlet directly behind the lower spray arm spindle. This tube runs up the back wall of the dishwasher and mates with the upper rack when it is pushed in.

This feed tube simply snaps into place in the bottom of the machine. It is a high pressure line that makes an immediade 90-degree bend towards the rear of the unit. They have a tendency to pop out. When and if it does pop out you get almost no water coming out of the upper arm and you lose effective pressure in the lower arm, too. The cure is to push that feed tube back down firmly into the port until you hear it snap into place. While you have the lowere rack out it is a good idea to clean the intake screen out and check for any debris in the intake well.

There is a pipe/tube that runs up the back of the inside of your dishwasher. This provides water for the top spray arm. The spray arm has a feeder tube that covers the pipe in the back. If for some reason the feeder tube has come dislodged, the water just drips back down into the dishwasher, never touching your upper shelf. My kids used to jam cutting boards and other large items into the lower shelf and in so doing, would dislodge the upper spray arm feeder tube. Just pull out the upper shelf and check to see that the tube is in the correct position. This should solve the problem.
If not, then the upper or lower spray arms may have debris that keeps the water from being forced through the jets. You'll need to flush the arm with the spray attachment on your kitchen sink. I sometimes use tweezers or a toothpick to dislodge bits of peelings, paper, or bone that manage to get into the sprayer arm.
I hope one of these tips helps. If it does,please come back to fixya and rate my answer.

Try putting the hinges in the broil position. That's just slightly open at the top in the first detent. Line up the hinge arms with the slots in the side of the door and push the door down on them. You may not be pushing the door all the way onto the hinge arms. Don't be afraid to give the door a good push.

Once you remove the wheel nuts the tire assembly should literally fall into your arms.If it isn't moving you are going to have to resort to brute force.With the vehicle properly supported kick the tire at the 12 o'clock position (hard),rotate the tire 90 degrees and kick again,etc.Sometimes the rust deposit between the rim and the wheel stud is so bad it seems like the tire is welded on.Keep at it and good luck.

Upper Control Arm and Bushings–C-Series REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Raise and support the truck on jackstands. Fig. 1: Installing the upper control arm — C-Series
   
   
2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
3. Remove the wheel.
4. Remove the air cleaner extension (if necessary).
5. Unbolt the brake hose bracket from the control arm.
6. Remove the cotter pin from the upper control arm ball stud and loosen the stud nut until the bottom surface of the nut is slightly below the end of the stud.
7. Install a spring compressor on the coil spring for safety.
8. Using a screw-type forcing tool, break loose the ball joint from the knuckle.
9. Remove the nuts and bolts securing the control arm to the frame brackets.
10. Tape the shims and spacers together and tag for proper reassembly. The 35 Series bushings are replaceable. The 15/25 Series bushings are welded in place. To install: Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
    
11. Place the control arm in position and install the shims, bolts and new nuts. Both bolt heads must be inboard of the control arm brackets. Tighten the nuts finger tighten for now. NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts yet. The bolts must be torqued with the truck at its proper ride height.
    
12. Install the ball stud nut. Tighten the nut to specification.
13. Lower the truck. Once the weight of the truck is on the wheels:
    1. Lift the front bumper about 38mm and let it drop.
    2. Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 more times.
    3. Draw a line on the side of the lower control arm from the centerline of the control arm pivot shaft, dead level to the outer end of the control arm.
    4. Measure the distance between the lowest corner of the steering knuckle and the line on the control arm. Record the figure.
    5. Push down about 38mm on the front bumper and let it return. Repeat the procedure 2 or 3 more times.
    6. Re-measure the distance at the control arm.
    7. Determine the average of the 2 measurements. The average distance should be 95.0mm plus or minus 6mm.
    8. If the figure is correct, tighten the control arm pivot nuts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988–90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991–98 models.
    9. If the figure is not correct, tighten the pivot bolts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988–90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991–98 models and have the front end alignment corrected.

I believe the shock goes through the control arm, you shouldn't have to remove it at all.Unbolt the brake hose from the control arm, remove the upper ball joint nut and pop it loose, then just remove the two pivot bolts. If you do remove the shocks be sure to have the lower control arm supported or the torsion bar will swing the control arm down with a lot of force. Be sure to get an alignment after reinstalling the upper control arm. The pivot bolts are the adjustments for camber and caster.

UPPER BALL JOINTS

1. Raise and support the truck with jackstands. Remove wheel.
2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
3. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud and loosen, but do not remove the stud nut.
4. Using a forcing-type ball joint separator tool, loosen the ball stud in the steering knuckle. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and the stud nut. It may be necessary to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain clearance.
5. On R-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1 / 8 in. drill bit. Remove the ball joint assembly.
6. On C-series trucks, drill out the rivets using a 1 / 8 in. drill bit to start a pilot hole. Drill out the rivets with a 1 / 2 in. bit. Remove the ball joint assembly using a screw-type forcing tool.

To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.

1. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
2. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut as follows:
   
   1 / 2 ton trucks: 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm), plus the additional torque to align the cotter pin. Do not exceed 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) and never back the nut off to align the pin. 3 / 4 and 1 ton trucks: 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm), plus additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin. Do not exceed 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) and never back off the nut to align the pin.
   
3. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball joint nuts as follows:
   
   1988-90 models, tighten the nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) for the 15 and 25 Series and 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) for 35 the Series. 1991-98 models, tighten the nuts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
   
4. On C-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 90 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988-90 models, 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-95 models and 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm) on 1996-98 models.
5. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.

LOWER BALL JOINTS

1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
3. Remove the wheel.
4. Remove the lower stud cotter pin and loosen, but do not remove, the stud nut.

Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the lower ball joint using a suitable tool-R-Series shown, C-series similar


Fig. Fig. 3: Use an appropriate tool to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle-R and C-Series


Fig. Fig. 4: Installing the lower ball joint-R and C-Series

1. Loosen the ball joint with a forcing-type ball joint tool. It may be necessary to remove the brake caliper and wire it to the frame to gain enough clearance.
2. When the stud is loose, remove the tool and ball stud nut.
3. Install a spring compressor on the coil spring for safety.
4. Pull the brake disc and knuckle assembly up and off the ball stud and support the upper arm with a block of wood.
5. Remove the ball joint from the control arm with a ball joint fork or another suitable tool.

To install:
Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.

1. On R-series vehicles, start the new ball joint into the control arm. Position the bleed vent in the rubber boot facing inward.
2. On C-series vehicles, force the ball joint into position using a screw-type forcing tool. The ball joint will bottom in the control arm. The grease seal should face inboard.
3. On R-series vehicles, turn the screw until the ball joint is seated in the control arm.
4. Lower the upper arm and match the steering knuckle to the lower ball stud.
5. On C-series vehicles, start ball stud into the knuckle. Install the nut and tighten it to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) on 1988-90 models; 84 ft. lbs. (115 Nm) on 1991-94 models and 94 ft. lbs. (128 Nm) on 1995-98 models. Advance the nut to align the cotter pin hole and insert the new cotter pin. NEVER back off the nut to align the cotter pin hole; always advance it!
6. On R-series vehicles, tighten the ball stud nut to 80-100 ft. lbs. (108-135 Nm), plus the additional torque necessary to align the cotter pin hole. Do not exceed 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) or back the nut off to align the holes with the pin.
7. Install a new lube fitting and lubricate the new joint.

I just had the same thing happen and fixed it! You might need to remove the upper rack first. In the "Roof" of the dishwasher, you should see what looks like a plastic gear wheel. It will screw off, but you will need to put a little force to get it started. Inside of the gear is a free floating plastic ring with 2 small teeth on one side. Make sure the teeth are facing down through the center hole of the wheel. Hold the ring with one finger, and snap the spray arm back in place. Just screw the assembly back into the washer and all is good... Until it falls out again...