- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This is without a doubt what my British Grandfather called a "whatsit".
They can come in an amazing array of shapes and sizes, and utilize a variety of power sources.
The really neat thing is that they are capable of being intended to perform an infinite number of objectives.
Once you determine what the objective is, the term "whatsit" can be replaced by "redoflab", "baffledorb", or occasionally "gizmo" or "thingy".
Taking it a set further, and actually progressing from objective to method, will sometimes result in finding a product identity name, in which case getting a "YOU SIR, MANUAL" is a possibility.
If you mean your cross hairs wont focus the most likely cause is the cover you are turning is slipping and not actually adjusting the lens. Depending on the model, there are usually a couple small screws that can be tightened to correct this.
If you mean what you're trying to look at (objective) wont focus, then likely the focus tube is no longer making contact with the focus pinion. Look in the objective of your transit, and you should see a tube inside the frame. Turn the focus knob slowly and see if it moves the tube closer and further away. If not the rack and pinion are no longer meshed up. If it does then you have a lens out of place. Disassembly is easy, but reassembly and realigning the lenses is tricky, i would not recommend. A repair shop should be able to take care of this, and make sure it's in proper calibration for not to high a cost.
What do you mean by close range? All lenses have range within which objects can be focussed. Objects within the "closest focussing distance" cannot be focussed. The maximum is usually infinity. Yours lens specification should tell you what the "closest focussing distance" is.
Since there's only a very small amount of light reaching the lens system of microscopes when on high powers, A special technique (called >>>oil immersion
Not using this technique must be the cause of the problem you are experiencing.
eHow will guide you through the exact procedure of using the oil immersion technique: http://www.ehow.com/how_8431358_focus-high-power-objective-microscope.html
Good luck in exploring the micro world!
The numbers on binoculars in the form 00x00 are the power and the diameter of the objective (the main lens). A common one is 8x30, for small binoculars of 8 power and an objective 30mm in diameter.
10-30x60 is a bit more complicated. The diameter of the objective is 60mm, but the first numbers with the hyphen indicate a range of powers, from 10 to 30, because these binoculars have a zoom feature, giving variable power.
In my view, zoom on boinoculars is a gimmick. It isn't useful in practice, usually giving too much magnification to be useful at the high power end, and the complication it adds to the optics means that the image is not as good as with simpler binoculars of similar quality.
There are two reasons. One reason is that when on high power you are working so close to the glass slide that it is easy to misjudge how much you are moving the specimen toward the lens that you can break a slide before you realize it. The coarse focus moves the stage with the specimen on it very fast and you only have a very very short distance within the focus plane before you run the objective lens into the slide.
Secondly, it is just harder to control the minute adjustments needed at the higher powers with the "coarse" focus knob. If you start at the low magnifications find what you want to concentrate on with the coarse focus knobs and then work your way up to the higher powers, you will have very little trouble moving to the fine focus controls at 40x and 100x while still having control of your image.
You could be right about the lens...you can try zooming in and out severel times and gently and very discreet try to pull out the lens.Dust and moisture can block the mooving part of the objective so a little shaking and wipeing would help. Also the problem could be in the settings of your camera...you could try resetting to the default settings and probably it will correct the blur caused by the bad focusing(or just try modify the autofocus to manual focus).A third option-in the worse case scenario- would be a scratched(or very dirty) objective that leads to a bad focusing and causing the blurryness.Try wipeing the objective with a soft cloth.Hope it will help you...
Seing bacteria isn't just about magnification, many
are transparent and need to be stained. Even at X1000, you will see little detail, but can make approximations of shape etc. Here is a good starting point for staining bacteria.
With a toothpick scrape a little plaque from your teeth (size of a pinhead is plenty). Put this in the centre of a slide with 1 drop of water and mix thoroughly. Allow this to dry then pass the sample through a flame three or four times (hot, but not hot enough to burn fingers) Stain for five mins using either Methylene Blue or Eosin. If you don’t have these, Blue or Red fountain pen ink will do for starters. Rinse off excess stain with very slow running water. Blot dry and observe at X400. If you have an oil immersion lens, you must use a cover slip and mount your specimen in balsam first.
If I can be of any further help, please don’t hesitate to ask.
What you have is called a refractor-type telescope with the primary lenses (the Objective) at the top of the tube and the only other lenses in the system are your selection of eyepieces, probably a barlow lens (2X magnification of any eyepiece used), and a diagonal (in line mirror so that you cand see into the telescope from the side.). As the focal lenth of the eyepiece decreases, so does the distance away from the Objective Lens. I believe that you are using the telescope with a diagonal mirror which makes the optical path longer. The fact that your longer focal lenght eyepiece can focus and not your short one would be only if you didn't have the diagonal or the eyepiece all the way in tight to allow the focus mechanism (rack and pinioin) to get compressed enough to focus. Look at the Moon, if the image gets smaller then bigger as you focus, but not sharp, then I would have to tell you that your eyepeice lenses are not in the right order. Someoner may have taken it apart and didn.t put them back in the correct order. The lenese could just be very dirty also. Barrow a short focal lenght eyepice from a friend and see if it works in your system. Then you will know for sure.