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Solid fuel room heaters with a back boiler can have fairly complex air and damping controls. Driving older types was just as complex as driving a car, though slower, with the boiler damper, flue damper and air control.
In time manaufacturers wanted to widen the appeal of the products and began to refine the designs and make some of the functions automatic or semi-automatic.
I suggest you revisit the instruction manual and if you can't make the fire slumber, or damp it down so it sleeps for the night or close down the hot water, it is probably something inside has seized or broken.
Using excess fuel and constantly boiling the water is a sure sign too much combustion air is reaching the coals. If the coals glow brightly from the fire base excess air is entering the ash space or getting in below the fire basket. If the base is cooler and the top of the fire is hotter the air is being drawn across the fire. This is difficult to avoid if the design uses an air curtain to keep flame and soot away from the door glasses but it could mean an internal air passage needs clearing.
It could be time to take the heater apart for a thorough clean, inspection, replace gaskets and any corroded or broken parts including the clay liners.
Is there gas cause most of the time it won't ignite cause there is no gas. What you can do is light it your self and if it lights that is good and if it stays light than there is has sometime you have to light it your self
Lack of pressure in the primary circuit [radiators] Look for a pressure gauge should read between 0.5 & 1.5 bar Somewhere there is a tap/valve/pipe connection to refill & looks like a small thumb turn or a screwdriver turn on a connection on the mains water inlet pipe. turn on until you get the right pressure then off
I've got a few of these and manuals
let me know which model plz
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