Cutting out Camera is cutting out about once per second. The frame freezes and the sound goes away. Then it plays again for about a second.

Your camera is likely taking still pictures, a few per second. For smooth movie-like motion, you need at least 24 frames per second. Your camera may be adjustable.

yes system conversion is you need just change the crystals! buy a palsecam crystal then replace the old crystal.

The 4 frames per second shooting speed really only applies when you're shooting on manual focus. If you're not shooting a well lit scene or using an off-brand lens your camera will take a bit to auto-focus on your subject. Also if you're using the on-board flash, your camera will take a few seconds to recharge and fire again for the next picture.

http://us.sanyo.com/dynamic/product/Downloads/VPC-CS1_OM_English-6223243.pdf

p.60 of the manual describes different recording modes with lower resolutions (1280x720) pixels and lower frames per second (30fps).

I would choose from the menu to record in a lower resolution and lower fps mode so that the quicktime program can display the video at a good rate for you.

I don't know what kind of macbook you have, but usually such problems are due to the older macs not having enough speed to display high definition video with all its data all at once.

I used to have problems a few years ago, before i upgraded my hardware on PC's, with choppy video that was High Definition.

Are the videos in AVCHD Lite or Motion JPEG? Most computers can't handle AVCHD.....most of the time, you can only play them on an HD tv.

Sounds like you bought a new compact flash card. They are making two different types of memory cards. One is the new SDHC which transfer 32 frames per second. The first set was only doing 16 frames per seconds. I beat that you have a new memory and your camera is not design to read the new memory

Sounds like you just mostly have problems with the camera not taking the picture as soon as you push the button. There are some ways to get a single frame from a camera video file, but I think the best way to get what you really need is to have a camera that takes the picture as soon as you push the shutter button. The least expensive option for this is one of the digital SLR's. Nikon sells the D40 for around $400. This would take the picture as soon as you push the button, and you could take about three per second also. Then you could just download the pictures and find the one you liked. To get the single frames from a video will require you to use a special software.

This is a really simple problem and easy to solve.  Unfortunately the videos you've recorded cannot be changed back because they have been recorded in Time Lapse mode.  
With the camera switched on in Video Mode turn the control dial on the back (this is the dial to the right of the LCD screen).  This will change the settings from TIME LAPSE to STANDARD.  There are actually 6 different modes but the best one for normal videos is STANDARD.  There is a HIGH RESOLUTION setting,  however these record fewer frames per second (fps) so whilst the quality is better per frame,  there are half the amount of fps so the the movie will look at bit jerky.
It's really easy to accidentally twist the dial when holding the camera,  so always check the icon in the top right of the LCD before recording to make sure its just a yellow camera in a yellow square.  
This should be problem solved for all future recording.

maybe your movie isnt converted right. try a different movie.

By frame size and frame rate I think. The F828 (in highest quality mode) takes 30 frames per second (fps) at 640x480 pixels. In the US televisions display video at 30 FPS (actually it is 60 fps but only half the frame gets displayed at a time so it nets out to 30.) I'm not swure what dedicated camcorders do internally but I've run my F828 videos on my TV (27" non-HDTV) and they look great. I've got no interest in buying a dedicated camcorder. Things might be different if I had an HDTV.