I have a Krups blender and a replacement part I don't know how to install. It's the gray rubber knob with teeth that the motor turns which fits into the thing that turns the blades. the new part has a threaded center, and obviously fits on a threaded serw, but I don't know how to remove the old one.
There is a slit in the middle of the bottom of the blender. You turn the gear drive until the metal slot in the shaft lines up with the slit. Put a flat head screwdriver through the slit into the slot in the bottom of the shaft. Now hold the screwdriver to keep the shaft from turning and remove the gear drive. It took me a few tries, but it finally came loose.
You need the remove the old gray rubber knob. I did it in a barbaric way just hacking at it with scissors. Once you've removed all the rubber, you can use pliers to remove the remaining metal base. Once that's removed, place the new piece on the post and spin it on. Most important, spin clockwise to loosen, not counter clockwise like most items.
Well our krups type 575 just went on the blink aswell. So I thought I'd take a look inside .I started by unplugging unit and removing the 4 rubber spacers, then removing the torque (# 20 Torque with hole in center screwdriver) Then I placed thin flat screwdriver through the slats in the bottom keeping the motor from rotating ,thus I could unscrew the rubber knob with teeth counter clockwise .So finally could remove outer casing .It seems the print out board on ours is fried so I hooked the power source directly to the motor and reassembled . Now it blends fine only one speed ,fast ,it is turned off and on by the switch on the wall. Hope this can help in some way good luck.
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take a flat head screw drive to the bottom of the blender and us it to hold the blender shaft in place while you turn the gear by hand or with a plyers (it is reverse threaded) and it should spin right off. when you get the new on it should spin right on.
The body of the blender is held together by three cross head screws two at the base which are clearly visable and a third which is concealed by the pulse on/off switch which you need to prise off to reveal - small spring to rear to catch!
Our blender went totally dead due to a blown internal fuse which I have now replaced and hey presto we are back in action.
This sounds like the black rubber coupler has broken. The teeth often get knocked off. Have a look at the part shown in hte pictures here: http://kitchenaidblenders.co.uk/Home/tabid/36/p/Two-%282%29-KitchenAid-Blender-Coupler-%2b-WS-Fitting-Tool-9704230_2plusWS/ProductID/175/Default.aspx
Like you, I am all for repairing and keeping the world free of blenders that only need one part replaced. The rubber coupling was easily ordered online, the challenge I later found was to remove it without losing my sanity. After messing up the side grill of the blender pretty good, I realized there is an opening on the motor casing that allows access to a "gear" that is firmly attached to the axle where our little friend will hopefully screw on and restore the contraption to a working state. In order for you to see (which I must warn you, it's not much of a view) through the grill you will need a flashlight or book light. Towards the top of the aforementioned gear (not the rubber part) there is a groove in which a flat screwdriver can easily fit immobilizing the axle and allowing you to easily unscrew it. Oh, but wait, I forgot this is the faulty part and it will spin without the slightest torque on the axle thus never loosening or getting it unscrewed. My solution to this problem was to surgically remove as much rubber as possible to allow me to attach my vise grip to the nut and finally put this thing out of its misery. Using the same procedure of inserting the screwdriver to immobilize the axle I was able to screw the new part and voila the blender is fixed!!!!
The problem I had was removing the grey rubber drive. The solution is that it screws off not pops off. The trick is to use narrow needle nose pliers to grab the post that attaches to the motor and turn the rubber drive counter clockwise. Removing the motor becomes easy. Pull out the 4 rubber feet under the base and the screws will be exposed. However my situation was the grey drive gear was stripped and would bottom out. My solution was to use a same size lock washer as the washer between the post and the drive. So far so good! If it fails I will need to buy another grey drive. Myron
Repairing the blender: My guess: You worked the motor too hard on your last blending session and it overheated. That will cause a thermal fuse inside to cut off. The blender won't work again until you replace the fuse but otherwise it should be fine. The fuse looks like a white diode and it will be attached tightly to the motor with a nylon strap (so that it can pick up the heat of the motor). The leads to the fuse are shielded with heat resistant nylon wrap. You will need to remove the rubber drive gear in order to remove the plastic house so you can work, although if you are really handy you might be able to at least test the unit by only removing the plastic bottom on the base unit.
To remove the plastic housing, remove the little rubber feet and then remove all of the screws on the bottom of the unit. You may need to buy a bit set for tamper resistant screws (I ***hate*** those), I don't remember. When the bottom is removed, you will see that the there is a screw head on the bottom of the central motor shaft. You can use a screw driver here to hold the motor from turning, then you can carefully use a pliers to unscrew the rubber drive gear on the top of the base unit (try not to damage the rubber). With the gear removed you can get access to the wires.
To test the fuse unit, just check its continuity. Short=good, open=bad. To further test, short out the fuse with a jumper cable and your blender should work.
EPO (Electronics Parts Outlet) in Houston, TX, has the replacement fuse unit. I don't know that they like mail order.
These little jewels are threaded onto the motor shaft so they tighten up when in operation. To remove, you will have to immobilize the motor shaft. See if you can insert an icepick or screwdriver into the blades of the motor fan on the bottom. Then using a punch and hammer, gently tap the clutch disk in the direction opposite from its normal rotation.
BE CAREFUL not to use so much force that you break either the clutch disk or the motor fan blade.