Rca centre pin snapped off and stuck in rca socket
Hi there,one of my rca centre pins has snapped off and is stuck in the rca socket and I can't for the life of me figure how to ge the damned thing out!!!!!
It is on one of my Pioneer CDJ800's (original,not MKII). I opened it up to see if I could get in from the back but no joy =o( ........Is there any possible way of getting the bugger out? or will I have to buy the whole unit inside which has both the audio and digital sockets on it.
Any tips and hints would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: rca centre pin snapped off and stuck in rca socket
Is there any amount of it sticking out of the socket? If so, you can possibly use a FRESH carrot, or other "hard" vegetable, mush like you would with a light bulb that has broken with the contact end still in the socket.
If you open the casing, you may be able to use a small pin to push the metal out through the center hole (if there is a hole and it's not a sealed connection on the interior of the unit)
Next thing is to find some small needle nose pliers, or a precision screwdriver, the idea here is to apply pressure to the sidewall of the pin that is stuck (from the outside of the machine)
If you have pictures of how it is stuck, that would help. Just email them to [email protected]
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The phono-sockets, aka RCA sockets have a female pin in the center.
Sometimes, these tube-shaped metal pins become stretched or oxidized, causing loss of contact.
The easiest quick-fix you can try is to briefly squirt the socket and cord-plug with Servisol or similar evaporating contact-cleaner, then repeatedly twist, push and pull the plug in and out to 'scrub' the potentially oxidized surface.
If that doesn't work, option 2 is possible if your sockets are open at the back of each socket, ie: not sealed / molded types.
Unplug power, remove cover, locate phono sockets.
If center pins can be seen from rear, try crimping slightly with needle-nosed pliers, or use a dart point or pen-knife to 'push' the pin-barrel slightly closed.
Make a test-cord with plug removed, connect an AV audio source temporarily by hand to the suspect socket's connectors, observing polarity of center and screen.
If molded plugs are suspect, try levering pin-barrel more closed from front end if possible, or if totally kaput, renew sockets.
White shielded =Audio out, centre white to centre pin of Rca plug shield to outer rca,
Yellow Shielded = video out centre yellow to centre pin of Rca plug shield to outer plug.
I have no idea what your question is but hope that's what you wanted to know
if you are lookin at your rca's you have the centre pin and on the inside in between the centre pin and the outside of the rca put a bit of wire there and plug it into your deck then connect the other end to an earth
have you got the power wires running down one side and the rca's down the other
or you can goto an electronics store and buy an rca noise suppresser
Do a soft or hard reset (pin in back of PDA; pin in back of PDA and front silver button simultaneously).
If not, what worked for me is to take the PDA apart, if you are comfortable. There are 4 screws in the back. Remove them. With a knife, flathead screwdriver or other flat object, pry open the back. A few plastic pieces may fall out, tho. Note where they connect. Disconnect and then reconnect the power adapter. Put the plastic pieces and the back of the PDA together. The back should snap in place. Insert the 4 screws. Should work OK, again. Use this method if the adapter is not charging very well and the soft / hard reset doesn't work. I've had to perform this many times. Good luck.
Im not sure what DIN sockets you're trying to describe here, but quite often, you can record from a tape player to a pc by connecting an rca cable to an adaptor; rca to 1/8"(headphone pin) and then plugging that headphone pin in to the microphone input on your computer.
Unplug the battery from the laptop and then plug the AC adaptor into the laptop. If the green light still goes off then your motherboard is shorting out the adaptor and the motherboard needs to be replaced.
Removal NOTE: Left-hand dual arm mirror with heat shown, non-heated and aero mirrors similar. All exterior mirrors
Position the exterior mirror glass in the full down position.
Grasp the top and carefully pull the exterior mirror glass away from the mirror housing.
Disconnect the electrical terminals (if equipped) and remove the exterior mirror glass.
Power exterior mirrors
Remove the jack pins from the exterior mirror glass backing plate.
Use pliers to grasp the jack pins at the base to remove.
Installation Power exterior mirrors
Remove the sealing boots from the exterior mirror motor.
Install the jack pins in the sealing boots.
Install the jack pins and sealing boots.
Hold the legs of the jack pins and push the jack pins back into the exterior mirror housing.
Install the sealing boots so the boot shoulder is under the mirror collar and turn each jack pin until the head of the jack pin is aligned with the slots in the sockets on the backing glass plate.
All exterior mirrors
Place the new exterior mirror glass assembly down on a smooth firm surface.
Align the friction pins vertically to the exterior mirror glass backing plate socket and push down to snap the pivot ball into the socket.
CAUTION: Do not over heat the exterior mirror glass backing plate. Heat only until backing plate is warm to the touch. Using the special tool, warm the main pivot sockets in exterior mirror glass backing plate.
Loosely install the glass.
Connect the electrical wiring to the electrical terminals (if equipped).
Position the friction pins in the mirror housing.
Align the jack pin locating tabs to match with the mirror glass back.
Using a flat hand, press on the center of the mirror glass until seated on the center pivot of the mirror housing.
Press the mirror glass toward one of the jack pins until snapped in place.
Repeat for second jack pin.
Power exterior mirrors NOTE: If the jack pins do not engage, they may not be aligned correctly. Remove the exterior mirror glass, align the jack pins to the slots in the sockets and repeat the installation procedure.
NOTE: The jack pin should click while manually adjusting the exterior mirror glass. Tilt the exterior mirror glass to the full outboard position and then press on the outer side of the class until the in/out jack pin snaps into the socket on the exterior mirror backing plate.
NOTE: The jack pin should click while manually adjusting the exterior mirror glass. Tilt the exterior mirror glass to the full down position and then press on the outer side of the class until the up/down jack pin snaps into the socket on the exterior mirror backing plate.
If you mean the centre pin from the plug has broken off in the socket then use a tooth pick, dab a tiny bit of cyanoacrylate, (super glue) on one tip and push against the broken pin keeping steady for at least 20 seconds. Now, gently pull the pin out.
If the socket is broken, new board or repair shop.
Here is some information may be useful to you.
Socket 1 169 pins 486 SX/DX
Socket 2 238 pins 486 SX/DX/DX2
Socket 3 237 pins 486 SX/DX/DX2/DX4
Socket 6 235 pins 486 DX4
Socket 4 273 pins Pentium 60 en 66MHz
Socket 5 320 pins Pentium 75 t/m 200MHz
Socket 7 321 pins Pentium, AMD K6/K6-2/K6-3, Cyrix M1/M2
Socket 8 387 pins Pentium Pro 150 - 200MHz
Slot 1 242 pins PII, PIII en Celeron
Slot 2 330 pins PII Xeon en P III Xeon
Socket 370 370 pins PIII, Celeron, Cyrix III
Socket 423/478 423/478 pins Pentium4
Socket 603 603 pins Pentium4 Xeon
PAC418 418 pins Intel Itanium
PAC611 611 pins Intel Itanium 2
Slot A 242 pins Athlon
Socket A 453 pins Athlon, Athlon XP, Athlon MP and Duron
Socket 754 754 pins AMD Athlon 64
Socket 940 940 pins AMD Opteron
Conclusion: You can not upgrade beacuse Armada M700 has a pentium III processor with 370 pins. So the Socket 478 pinned pentium is not suitable.
Advise: Try to exchange it with a new laptop or buy a used laptop for suitabl configuration