Pause when switching channels - Crate Music

Mute Switch/Mute-Clip LED :

• This switch mutes all Aux, Group and L/R sends from the corresponding channel.
• This switch is equipped with a red LED that will illuminate when the channel is muted.
• When the MUTE button is out,the LED functions as a Clip indicator that will illuminate at 2 dB below clipping.
• Muting the channel does not prevent the PFL signal from being sent to the PFL/AFL mix when the PFL Switch (12) is in.
• This switch mutes its respective Group send from the Group channel.

Go to page 11 in this link :
Peavey FX Mixer Series Operating Manual

You can also try, Restoring Factory Settings, in the Utility Menu Options.
Go to page 16 in ths link :
Peavey FX Mixer Series Operating Manual

CAUTION:
Restoring the factory settings option resets your mixer's presets, reformatting factory presets and erasing all other user presets. (This option is handy when your venue has permanently changed and all-new presets are required.)
Once confirmed, the presets are not retrievable and will be permanently lost.
Should you select this option in error, a warning screen allows you to cancel the procedure.

I have same problem. i have this map. please help me to find the problem. if you can point the area in this map that problem is from that.

Sounds like either your "front-panel" switches are not set for channel switching or the footswitch's mechanical "Channel" switch is defective. According to the OM the "Channel Select Switch" on the front becomes inactive with the footswitch plugged in.

If disconnecting the footswitch causes this front-panel switch to operate properly then it has to be your mechanical switch in the footswitch. Repair of these footswitches are pretty simple provided you find a replacement and have soldering abilities.

This is because your clean channel only runs through the pre-amp section, requiring an increased volume level to match that of the volume of the drive section which is overdriven by the pre-amp circuit. my suggestion is to use lower volume level on the clean channel of the amp. To get any volume boost you may need to match the two channels you could use a signal/volume booster or overdrive pedal between your guitar and amp input, switching it off and back on when you switch back and forth between channels.

If you are using headphones, then I'm guessing you are practicing and running the amp as quietly as possible while still able to hear it. Unfortunately, most channel switching guitar amps will have a tiny bit of bleed-through from the other channel when turned all the way down and listened to at close distance from the speaker. And yes, using a mechanical switch or relay to switch the connection from one channel to the other would mostly eliminate this, but due to the high amount of signal gain in guitar amp preamp sections, this type of switching causes very loud pops and other unwanted noise when switched. The amps are made with either photocell (optical) resistors or reverse biased transistors or op amp chips to switch channels. These are 'softer', partially because they don't fully turn off when in the off state(or fully on either). This creates bleed through, but it is better and easier than a CRACK THUMP POP!! every time you stomp the channel switch pedal. Amps are designed to be used at output levels generally much louder than a dorm room at 11:30 pm, and at stage volume in a club, the channel bleed is so far below audible, it is never heard by anyone. That's just the way it is.

There can be any number of reasons for this problem - solve it diagnostically by starting with something that you know is working and work through systematically to the other end.

1. Test a microphone on a separate amp to make sure it works okay. Check amp and speakers working. Check that all output cables from mixer to amp are working by testing separately.
2. Plug microphone into a channel on mixer. Also plug in headphones and turn headphone volume control up.
3. Make sure input sensitivity knob is turned up a bit (say half way) and main output faders (yellow) are up.
4. Check that channel is turned on (little button just above the channel fader- needs to be pressed down)
5. press pfl (pre-fade listen) button (next to button to switch channel on)- do you get any sound on main output or headphones or any indicator lights on mixer to show signal is getting that far (eitehr the individual channel metering lights or the main ones in the central section)?
6. turn off pfl - make sure channel fader (slider) is up - normal position is ) - about 3/4 of way up. Check lights again on individual channel and main output section - any signs?
7. Is the sub mix button for the channel pressed down - in which case you will need to bring sub mix (red) output faders up as well as main faders.
8. If you have got signs of signal on the individual channel but not main see if the channel has been routed somewhere odd (like a subgroup of channels).
9. Plug a working amp and speakers into one of the auxiliary outputs and use the relevant auxiliary send knob (on each channel just above the faders and pfl switches) to pan some signal to that auxiliary out - do you get anything? There is also a headphone socket for listening to the auxiliary channels (with a selector switch /knob to determine which one - make sure it is in the right position) try listening to the auxiliary output with headphones - anything? If yes the problem lies in the main output section.
10. Check that there is not a jack plug in the insert socket (to route signal through an external effects unit) without a matching return jack being plugged in - if appropriate is relevant effects unit switched on and correctly set up - if unsure remove the insert plug to take it out of the system.
11. Make sure any mute buttons are not switched in on main outputs.

You can download a full user manual here http://www.allen-heath.com/gl/gl2400

have you tried the footswitch to change channels. also. my amp has to be in channel 2 position (with the button on the head) before i can use the footswitch. sometimes the input/footswitch jack wears out and you need to bend the internal tip/ring tabs of the jack to make better contact. also like on my fender amp, i had just a standard mono instrument cable going to my footswitch and it was acting wierd cause it needed a stereo instrument cable. one last thing on the grounding resistors on the pcb, they get hot and break the solder welds which messes with all sorts of stuff in amps. usually look like sugar cubes , cement resistor. 5watt usually under 1k ohm. check for bad solder welds on the pcb where the big resistors are and the switches/buttons and at the footswitch. there may be a bad ic or transistor for the channel swithing

Here is the schematic:http://www.ampix.org/albums/userpics/10003/MArshall_MG100DFX.pdf There are a few possibilities.The jack for the footswitch for channel changing JS1 might be faulty. Zener diodes 1 and/or 2 might be faulty. Switch 2 may be defective. TR1 might be defective. IC 4 or 5 might be defective.Start with the channel switching circuitry testing in the order I gave you. Check the actual clean channel circuitry to see if you actually have a clean channel anymore. Before you do any of this make sure you know enough about troubleshooting and have at least a good VOM and are familiar with safety procedures. The filter capacitors in this amp store enough charge to kill you. A cheat to partially discharge them without damaging the amp is to unplug it from the wall while it is hooked up to the speaker cab you are using while it is on at a very low volume with a guitar cord plugged in. Make sure you use exact replacement parts if you tackle this. They don't have to be from Marshall, they just have to be exact electronic equivalents from a quality manufacturer installed correctly. I would recommend that if you have no experience or are at all unsure of the repair to take it to a Marshall dealer to have it done. Please rate me if this helps.

Check power supply first. Look for cables that might have become disconnected.

I assume you know how to unmute the channels. You also need to select the channels to go to the L-R by depressing the switches at each channel..

Suggest you download the manual if you don't have one and refer to the signal flow diagram. You can do a lot of external testing and see what switches need to be set to pass signals.

SOME cables are TRS types for balanced signals, including the mains output.

Replace the switch. You gave no make/model number for your amp but if it has a jack for foot pedal operation of clean/dist function then try that. (on most amps) it will switch in spite of a bad front panel switch.