Question about Amana ABB1927DE Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

3 Answers

Evaporator coils icing up

The refrigerator and freezer work fine for a week or so as the evaporator coils gradually ice up until the are completely iced and I need to turn it off and defrost.
     This has be going on for the past 6 weeks.  The time for the coils to freeze up is getting shorter each time.
     I replaced the defrost control circuit board when the problem first occurred but there was no change.
   The most recent time I used my air compressor to blow out the drain after it was defrosted.  The result was a faster freeze up.  It has been just 4 days and the coil is almost completely iced.

Posted by Jijm on

  • 3 more comments 
  • Jijm Nov 09, 2007

    First, my unit is a Sears 22' Bottom Freezer Refrig, model # 596.77259200, 2002, made by Amana.

    Here is where I am at today. About 2 weeks ago I emptied the bottom freezer for the 4th time, defroated, checked all door seals and put it back in service, and set the STAT to "colder". I have opened the door for less than 30 seconds per day to check the coils and the temperature. The coils are 100% free of ice and the temperature has been zero to minus 5 degrees F. The refrigerator STAT is set on 5 (7 is the highest) and the temperature is 30 degrees F. We have been using the refrigerator as normal. Cerfer 39 thinks it could be the defrost heater which sounds reasonable but he is not familier with the Amana bottom. According to the sketch and part description in my repair parts list book, the evaporator section shows a part # 67001085 as a Heater, evaporator. It appears that there may be 2 of these, one on each side of the evaporator coil.

    My question now is how do I get to these heaters? Is this a 4 hour job for an experienced tech that would take be 2 days to do myself. If there are 2 heaters, are they in series? I am getting uniform ice buildup across the coil. I would not expect that if only one heater were burnedout. Is there a relay that controls power to these heaters that could be burned out? Can I get to it?

  • Jijm Nov 13, 2007

    I sure hope it is easy as you say. It appears that I need to remove the icemaker before I can remove the back panel. When I remove the back panel of the freezer section, is there any reason I can't turn the unit back on while I am waiting for a replacement defrost heater, provided it is found to be burned out?

  • Jijm Nov 14, 2007

    Thank you Cerfer 39,
    I have more than enough tools but not much experience working on refrigerators and freezers. Thanks for the encouragement. It is sure good to have an expert to answer my questions, to build my confidence, and shorten my learning cure. I hope to tackle the job on Saturday, 17 Nov.
    Jim

  • Jijm Nov 17, 2007

    Cerfer39,
    I removed the icemaker and back panel to expose the coils etc.
    It has been 16 days since last defrost and everything was frosted over.
    The first 5 days we kept the freezer closed and the coils seemed ok.
    For the last 11 days we have been opening the freezer twice a day to get ice.
    I defroasted the coils with a hair dryer to find the defrost heater.
    I popped the connectors to the defrost heater and it checked to be 28 ohms with my Simpson meter and a little higher with my pocket digital meter.
    That computes to 500 watts at 120 volts which sounds reasonable to me which would mean the problem is not a defective heater.
    I would expect there is a relay somewhere that is not closing or the control circuit I replaced is still defective.
    Where do I go next?
    Jim

  • Jijm Nov 27, 2007

    OK Cerfer39,
    Here's what I did over the weekend. I checked the parts list and found only one (1) additional item called thermostat kit. I had no schematic and there was none on the back of the new refrig/freezer. I checked the diagram on the back of our older Amana w/ bottom freezer but it had a defrost timer and the new unit has the "Adaptive Defrost Module". So, I traced the wires and sketched out the circuit with the help of defrost cycle info from Appliance411.
    I determined that the evaporator fan was working just fine and the next thing I might be able to check was the Defrost Termination Thermostat. Of course it is hard wired, so I skinned the insulation off and installed a jumper.
    The freezer has been working with normal frosting for 4 days and actually went into a defrost cycle that removed all frost from the coils. Looks like the defrost termination thermostat is the problem. Do you agree? Who do you recommend to get the best quality part at a resonable price? This is not an expensive part.

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Anonymous

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The defrost heater on this model is black. same material the element in your oven is made of. it runs across the bottomof the evap. slightly going up thr right and left sides of the evap. if you trace the wires back youll find that one side will hook into a defrost thermostat. this part is clipped up at the top of the evap. its about the size of a nickel. look at it to see if its swollen. the plastic top of it will look like its popped off alittle if its bad, inmost cases. either one of these two parts, defrost thermostat or the defrost heater can cause your problem

Posted on Nov 27, 2007

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Hi Jijm,

The time is really fast for the Evaporator to be freezing up like Sparkgap said. A possible solution is that you Defrost heater is burned out. It is usually located at the bottom of the evaporator encased inside a Glass Tube with a wire connected to both ends. If you have already accessed the Evaporator coils look for this heatrer and remove it for examination. What I find is the heater is usually burned in two. You can use a Volt ohm meter to check the resistance across the two connections, It should read less than 20 ohms. You can get another heater at www.repairclinic.com. Since you are icing up so fast, you might have your thermostat for the freezer set to wide open making it run all the time to gain the coldest temp possible. Please do not knock what Sparkgap said as you could have some moist air getting into your freezer through the door seals. If your heater is ok, then it may be the Defrost temperature sensor. This is unlikely, but still possible. I am not familiar with the Amana fridge so I am not sure where this sensor is located. It does have to be somewhere around the evap coils.

Posted on Nov 08, 2007

  • 3 more comments 
  • Greg Stokes
    Greg Stokes Nov 08, 2007

    Normally when you have a problem with icing it is related to the auto Deforsting system. normally if you have manually defrosted your Freezer, it should be good for 15 to 30 days. Granted Icing will build up with time. Completed Icing where you cannot see the coils due to having solid ice all around occurs over 30 days.. you did the right thing clenaing out your drain. That will get moisture out of your freezer better. Icing also moves faster when you have high humidity in your freezer.

  • Greg Stokes
    Greg Stokes Nov 09, 2007

    It is a simple job and should take a technician about 20 minutes to change and I believe there is only one heater. It might take you about 30 minutes. First of all you need to find the heater at the bottom of the coils insode the freezer. Find outif it is bad or not. If it is bad youneed to go to www.repairclinic.com where you can look up your Fridge and thet parts will display so that you can pick it out and purchase it. Have you removed the back panel inside the freezer yet? It will either have phillips head screws or 1/4 inch hex head screws. If you have a 1/4 inch nut driver it makes the job easier if you have the 1/4 inch hex head screws. Remove the back panel and look at the bottom of the coils for this heater.

  • Greg Stokes
    Greg Stokes Nov 13, 2007

    Hi Jijm,



    There is no problem with allowing the Freezer to run while you wait on parts. You can even run your Ice maker. I do suggest that when you get in there and it is defrosted to get as much moisture out as possible. If you leave moisture in the freezer is will get into everything and freeze up. I have seen the Icemakers motor frezze up when water stood in a freezer. Weird stuff. Do not get worried, just do this job one step one screw at a time. Remove the icemaker. Remove the shelves. Find one of them cheap multi bit Screwdrivers. Those Screwdriver have a 1/4" allen hole to put the bits in and they work great at removing those Hex head sheet metal screws in the back of Freezers. Keep me filled in how things are going. I get alerts every time you post a comment.

  • Greg Stokes
    Greg Stokes Nov 17, 2007

    Hi Jijm,



    Team work here man. Good job, I told you it was not that bad. If you can get back to the diagram that points out parts, you need to look for the temperature sensor or switch. Some Freezers have a Defrost switch, some have sensors. Another thing could be the FAN. If it is not circulating the air well, then Defrost could be comprimized

  • Greg Stokes
    Greg Stokes Nov 28, 2007

    Hi Jijim,



    Go to www.repairclinic.com first and identify the part number. The go to ebay and get it for less.

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The only possible source of water to freeze on the coils in such a short time is from the outside atmosphere. Check the door seals.

Posted on Oct 25, 2007

  • Anonymous Nov 08, 2007

    Welcome back!

    Sorry to see you didn't like my proposed solution. I probably wasted your time by suggesting checking the seals.

    Is there anything else you wish to add to help us diagnose this mysterious problem?

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