Fungi Hi, I'm having a problem with my lenses, showed fungi. Is there any way to remove?

Oak wilt, caused by Ceratocystis fagacearum, is a lethal disease of oak (Quercus sp.). The disease is most serious on members of the red oak family, including red oak, scarlet oak, black oak, pin oak, etc. Members of the white oak family are generally not nearly as susceptible: white oak, swamp white oak, burr oak, etc. The disease is analogous to and potentially as serious as Dutch Elm Disease on American Elm. Both are introduced, exotic diseases caused by vascular wilt fungi; both diseases are transmitted by insects; both diseases can be transmitted through root grafts, and both fungi kill their host plants rather quickly.

The success o cleaning fungus off a lens depends on how far the growth has gone.Light fungus on the outside surface off the lens can be removed by wiping a thin smear of Dove cream on the affected surface and then lightly removing using cotton buds. Follow this with a light polish using lens cleaning cloth. Never use cleaning tissue, it will scratch. A useful tip is to wash the lens cloth in hot water and dish washing liquid and rinse and ry before use. Have a spare clean cloth ready.
If the fungus is to heavy to remove you will still get some improvement using this cleaning method. If the fungus is on the inside it is up to you to decide whether to dismntle the lens.

If there is fungi in the lens, you can't remove it without damaging the lens. Even on the outside. Fungi is eating the coating. The coating is correcting light, to make the image sharper, to avoid flairs or to correct aberration. Perhaps it is in some places for other reasons. If you try to remove the fungi, you will remove the coating or at least a part of it, giving extra blur or blurry spots.
Just as a certified Sony repair centre what it will cost to repair the camera. But I think it will be cheaper to replace the camera. New cameras are better and cheaper than ever. Next camera, keep in in a dry place to avoid fungi. Eventually with cilia gel in he same package.

They do not kill the fungi and so when application ceases, the fungi can re-germinate and cause a repeat infection.

Sorry, but it's impossible to do without major disassembly requiring special tools and skills. Reassembly also requires the lens to be collimated as the lens groups are being refitted..

If you get the work done professionally, it will far exceed the cost of a replacement lens.

In any case, there are various types of fungal attack. Some feed only on the lubricants and lens cements inside the lens and can be removed during disassembly, but unless all parts are irradiated the spores will re-grow very quickly. Other types of fungal attack actually damage the lens multicoatings and some fungi attack the adhesive between optical groupings. These cannot effectively be cleaned off without leaving permanent damage and once again there is the risk of re-infestation. It's for this reason alone that many lens repairers will not accept such lenses for repair and there is also a slight (but unproven) risk of cross infection from one lens to another.

One solution which seems to be effective with some lens fungi (in my experience at least) is to expose them to UV light. This is achieved simply by leaving the lens outside on a few dry days without the lens cap on. Direct sunlight is best avoided, and if the lens is under glass then it will take longer as even regular window panes block much of the UV from the sun.

Preventing lens fungus is the best solution of all: never store lenses away unless thoroughly dry, so if they've been exposed to moisture or have had condensation on them then leave them somewhere dry and well ventilated before storage. Silica gel sachets in the camera bag also help, but don't forget to change them periodically.

Although this is probably not the answer you hoped for it also means that you have absolutely nothing to lose by trying to dismantle your lens anyway if the UV method fails. If you can get to the fungi directly then acetone seems effective at removing it but can attack the structural components of the lens, so go easy with it. I cannot provide you with any useful schematics as they're all copyright material and not legally available for free in the public domain.

Good luck, I hope you manage to use this information to arrive at a decision about what to do with your lens. Please take a moment to rate the free answer I have provided for you and any testimonial which you might wish to add is always welcome!

Well yes most probably its the dust particle and fungi floating around in the air

Cause: Light from the flash has reflected off dust particles or
insects in the air. This occurs more frequently in the following
conditions:

- When shooting at the wide angle end.
- When shooting with a high aperture value in the aperture-priority
mode.

Solution: This is a phenomenon that occurs with digital cameras and
does not constitute a malfunction
And definately the are not ghost...as speculated by many ghost hunters :)

It's lens fungus. It feeds off the lubricants and some claim it also feeds on the glass coatings.

Strictly speaking it means that the binos are write-offs, but if you can remove the lenses and carefully polish off the fungus you should be ok. There's some evidence that leaving the lenses out in sunlight for a few days kills any remaining fungus due to ultra-violet exposure (doesn't remove the dead stuff though). Some fungi will attack the lens coatings causing permanent damage (reduced image contrast, more lens flare) but the most common type does not.

could be a number of things..
fungi in the coolant (depending on type of projector)
alot of burn in on the blue (they wear out the quickest)
or possibly a bad flyback...


to check for fungi get a bright flashlight and hold it up to the lense look into it and you will see.

fixed one today that was so bad that you could not even see the crt anymore just a dull blue light.. took it apart and the fungi came out in clumps.

this site will help with do it yourself fixes

http://www.curtpalme.com/Advanced_Procedures.shtm

cheers
dave