About a week or two ago i noticed a running water sound when i first started the car and this stopped when i turned the fan off. I could not hear the sound or see anything when i opened the bonnet. The last few days i have noticed the car is steaming up when parked and this morning whilst driving to work the heater fan stopped working altogether.I have just been and checked and although the fan is now working again I have just noticed that the front footwells are wet.Any advice would be appreciated.
Im almost sure that your problem is a broken or leaking heater core and needs to be replaced cose 1 your coolant level allways will be low due to the leak and 2 it could damage your blower fan motor. if in winter time you need the heat fixit... If not you could cancel the 2 waters hoses going to the heater core. hope this helps.
SOURCE: Front Heater Blower not working
it would be the recister that is localated right by the blower motor it is a $40 dollar part ,it just has to screw holding it in place
SOURCE: renault megane scenic ( t-reg)
The sunroof drainage gets blocked.
your footwells will fill with water - even under your seats right to the back seats footwells
See two 10mm holes in front sides when sunroof is open.
a) push a flexible cable down from the top - it comes out just behind the front wheels. (use electric three core cable - or TV aerial cable - a hanger is too short) - you need about a metre and a half)
b) remove the inner mudgaurd behind the front wheels (2 screws) you will see the end of the plastic drainage pipes - remove the blocked black rubber cup at the end of these - why they are there is anybody's guess)
SOURCE: renault megane scenic RX4 climate control fan has failed
the vehicle is old enough that the fan blower motor sounds like it is in need of replacing. when you hit the dash it causes the brushes in the motor to contact enough to start the electrical connection, it may stop when it gets hot, or is turned off. the ticking sound is more than likely the bearings wore in the motor enough to cause the cage fan to touch the housing enough to cause the sound.
SOURCE: My Renault Megane Scenic S reg heater is not working
Most likely to be a faulty resistor block, which has 3 resistors and a thermal fuse controlling fan speeds 1,2 and 3, maximum speed 4 by-passes the resister block. It may also be poor electrical connections to the resistor block caused by overheating. Renault ask for approximately £350 to carry out repairs, a replacement resistor block will cost £50. If you decide to carry out the repairs yourself, be advised that if you are not competent to carry out such work you, could cause electrical damage or worse an electrical fire.
SOURCE: how to fit cam belt to renault megane 1.5 dynamique diesel 2004
not difficult with the right equipment ,firstly you will need a special tool to lock the crankshaft in place ,then another special tool than aligns the tdc this goes through the cylinder block at the front right hand side by taking a bolt out in the block thats just in front of the bell housing .The special tools cost an arm and a leg trust me and then the pulley bolt has to be pulled up to 130lbs ,the bottom pulley does not have a keyway so without the right tools its very easy to let the engine turn and clout the valves which breaks the camshaft bearing caps with relative ease .the kit you need can be bought and its kit number AST4390 plus the locking pieces for the flywheel .This is not a weekend mechanic type job ,yes its easy with the right tools but even myself will slacken tensioner and remove the cam before i start so valves cannot catch when i turn engine over on starter with a big bar on the pulley nut ,then change the belt then with assistant holding a snap on heel bar in the flywheel ring gear whilst i hammer the bottom pulley bolt with the air wrench ,then use the 80cm knuckle bar and have a good grunch to make sure its really tight or it WILL TURN and the valves hit and break and imbed themselves in the pistons and smash the cam bearing caps .This is not a job for the faint hearted ,their is a timing mark on the flywheel looking from the top through a elongated hole and TDC is a longer tooth ,the inspection slot is about 3cms down from the crank sensor
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