Hello, My GE PSS23MSWSS side-by-side refrigerator will not get as cold as it needs to. I checked the fan, and that is running okay, and cleaned the condenser coils, and that is now clean. I'm assuming the compressor is working as there seems to be cold air blowing into the freezer. I noticed there is frost buildup on the back wall of the freezer. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Yes the defrost heater part=> WR51X10101 Defrost Heater Assembly and the=> WR50X10028 Defrost Thermostat. The parts are location 230 and 240 in the photo=>
HERE. I am here if you have questions, Thanks, John Tripp Appliance 911
Couple of thoughts. First, there should be no frost build up in the freezer. This restricts the cold air flow and will result in the problem. For mine Fridge (not the same model but general principle applies) if I used a hair dryer and melted the ice and put it back together, it worked fine until the ice built up again. So it was clear in my case that the defrost coil was not operational and that resolved my problem. But it also might be something simple like the placement of food in the fridge area. Check that there is good air flow from the freezer to the fridge outlet. It is usually in the back of the top shelf. But my guess is the defrost is the problem.
SOURCE: Model is GSS25WGMD WW No cooling in freezer or refrigerator
look for ice or forst build up on the rear wall of freezer compartment, sounds like you may have a defrost problem. this will affect temps in freezer and refrig. the most common def problems for GE are bad defrost heaters. these are model specific and fairly easy to replace your self. i got this part number form Sears.com WR51X10055 good luck peyton
SOURCE: GE PSC23NSD SS refrigerator malfunction
Check the cover in back of the freezer for for frost build-up. I think Frost reached the evap fan-blades and stopped it from blowing cold to the ref-side. Contro;s can be confusing. The ON-OFF controls how long the compressor runs, and the other dial how open or choked the airflow from the freezer into the refrigerator. Sometimes it happens that you have that flapper shut and no air is getting moved to the reefer. If frost is on the cover you have dead heater elements on the evap coils or a faulty hi-temp limit switch, which is the disc thingee at the top of the coils. A bad timer also may disallow it going into defrost - think about it. Chris in big bEar
SOURCE: GE side-by-side not saying cold
Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to temp setting .
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Thanks so much! I just found that the default heater didn't have continuity, so now I have to pick up a new one. I noticed your image had a dual heater - is that what I need?
The com,panys that make the parts are always trying to make things a little better. The picture I put here is for your model number as above. I think that is what they will give you. Thanks John Tripp
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