Question about EnGenius EOC-3220 (EOC3220)

1 Answer

How to split WIFI signal between one radio and two antenna?

I have 1 WIFI operated 2.4 Ghz with 20DBm transmit power radio currently uses Channel 1 / 2412MHz and attached with it one 18Dbi patch antenna. Now, I have planned to split the signal into two since I was operated only at limited area. I want to expand my signal to the other side in order some of my friends can conned to my Access-Point.

Hoping for such immediate solution to come up. Thank you very much.

Need Help,


Posted by Anonymous on

  • Anonymous Oct 25, 2007

    Hi Benimur,

    Thank you very much of your excellent idea but It is very conflicated to build-up your suggestions. As of now, I have planed to buy a new one to face in other area.

    Once again, thank you very much.

    Best regards,




1 Answer

Louie Role

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Hi Philip,

To answer your question, from a single TX/RX device (your WiFi unit) to a dual antenna, what you would need as a splitter is more commonly called a "phasing harness".

A phasing harness is a balanced transmission line which is used when you want to stack or use two antennas from a single radio output. In lower frequencies it is made from a pair of 75 ohms high grade coaxial cable of equal odd quarter wavelengths of the operating frequency. The joint at the middle is connected with a “tee” connector with another cable (standard 50 ohms cable) that runs down to the radio. The free ends of the 2 75 ohms coax are then connected to the two antennas. This  site shows phasing harness for multiple antennas.

For microwave region, since losses tends to be magnified, commercial grade are often used rather than home brewed. Examples are shown in this page.

Alternately and perhaps simpler is to just remove the reflector of the 8Dbi patch antenna of the EOC 3220. Normally in designs such as the 3220, the active patch antenna is soldered on one side of the PCB.  At the back is another which looks just like it but slightly bigger. This is the reflector.  The reflector has two (2) purposes:
1.    block any signal coming in from and going to the back of the active patch antenna; and
2.    reflect any back signal of the active patch antenna and re-direct it forward to effectively increase the front signal.

If you decide to remove the reflector, there will be 3 effects on the performance of your TX/RX device:
1.    the front (major) lobe (roughly the front radiation pattern; maximum distance and area covered of the front signal traveled) will be greatly reduced;
2.    that reduction would be translated to a rear coverage; and
3.    it is highly possible that you will have small side lobes as well.

This   document  would give you an idea on the lobes and radiation patterns.

Good luck.

Posted on Oct 24, 2007


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you need to hook this up to an antenna. If you are putting it in a car, you need a mobile antenna, if in a house, you need a base antenna. The antenna needs to be tuned for best SWR or you will damage the radio.

Starting from the left of the radio.

Knob 1. Volume/ squelch. The little knob does the volume of what you hear. Big knob squelches out static noise.
knob 2. Dynamike. This is the volume of your voice transmitted. Its how loud people hear you.
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knob 4. Delta Tune. This knob should be in the center. If you encounter some one transmitting off frequency, you can move your receive up and down frequency so you can tune that person in. It does not effect your transmit frequency.
Knob 5. CAL. This is to calibrate the meter for taking an SWR reading off the antenna.

Switches starting form the left.

Switch 1. Meter switch. S/RF - will show on the meter, Your signal going out when transmitting, and the signal coming in while receiving. SWR - will show on the meter, your SWR on that channel after you have calibrated the meter. CAL - This is used to calibrate the meter in conjunction with the CAL knob.

Switch 2. ANL - Automatic noise limiter. - This gets rid of electrical interference noise from the vehicle, or other interference sources. ANL/NB - This is the same as ANL, but with NB "noise blanker" This function blanks louder noises that may make it hard to hear people. It's kind of like an automatic squelch, but not nearly as effective as the actual squelch. Also, NB will lessen your receive in that, really low signals will be blanked out.

Switch 3. CB - the radio is in CB mode. This is the normal operation mode of the radio. You can transmit and receive as normal. PA "Public Address" - If you hook a PA speaker to the PA jack in the back, you can mount the speaker on the out side of the vehicle, and talk over it (Its loud). Also, anything you receive over the radio when not holding the mic key, will come over the PA speaker. This is useful when you are not in the vehicle, and need to hear when some one comes on the radio.

Switch 4. BRT and DIM - this is the brightness of the meter light and channel display. BRT stands for bright.

Switch 5. Normal and CH 9, When the switch is in the normal position, everything is normal, but when you flip it up to CH 9 it instantly puts you one channel 9 with out having to turn the dial. CH 9 is the international emergency channel. So it lets you go to Channel 9 quick. when you put it back to normal it will put you on the channel you were on.

Meter explanation. - You have 3 horizontal lines on the meter. the top line is your SWR (only when in SWR mode on the switch. The next one down is you Signal going out. And the bottom one is your signal coming in, in DB's. ***Also noted that part of the SWR line has a CAL )calibration mark. When you have the switch in CAL, and key the mic, you turn the CAL knob up until the needle is at CAL triangle, and then put the radio on SWR and key it. where the needle falls, on the top line is your SWR. If it is in the red your antenna is not tuned, and you can damage your radio.


It is important to tune your CB radio antenna to the proper length. The length must exactly match the wavelength of the frequency you transmit on. Or be really really close.

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Now if the SWR is higher on channel 1 then channel 40 your antenna is too short. You must make it longer.

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How to make my own wifi antenna splitter?


If you are planning to use a single antenna and then use a "splitter" to connect two (2) WiFi units, I'm afraid that it will not work.

Antenna splitters are meant for receive only mode but since WiFi operates both on receive and transmit, then perhaps what you would need is a "duplexer".

Both of your WiFis would be operating on 2.4GHz band.  Theoretically, you would have to fix set your first WiFi device to operate on the lowest channel possible and the other on the highest channel possible. The channel separation translates to frequency difference; lowest for Channel 1 is 2.401GHz while the highest for Channel 11 is 2.473GHz.

Constructing your own would be at best a daunting task since you would need to be very familiar with electronic components and circuitry in the microwave region. Further, you have to have access to specialized equipment (microwave capable) such as a spectrum analyzer, swr meter, dummy loaded wattmeter and a frequency counter to say the least.  In most countries, you would also need certain licenses to do this.

With all of these in mind, your best bet might be to use individual external antennas for each WiFi device and positioned them as far away as possible from each other.  Moreover, pls bear in mind that anything between the transmitter and the antenna would introduce attenuation, insertion and return loss and this include even just the cable.


If you would still want to give it a try:

  1. Here is a   link  to  commercial duplexer for  amateur radio;
  2. Here’s a   link  to  a do-it-yourself page for lower amateur frequencies;
  3. This is a   link   to a component supplier page.

Good luck and kind regards.

Oct 23, 2007 | EnGenius EOC-3220 (EOC3220)

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