SOURCE: Woofer making horrible noise! HELP!
Think as an expert... Probably from my experience repairing woofers etc... the cone (1) or the spider (2) isn't well glued onto the woofer skeleton(or both???) The woofer cone must be absolutely centered or else you will get those clicks in low frequencies(you also get them in higher frequencies but you can't hear them!) I must say that it is very difficult to repair a woofer by your own. I suggest to return it back where you bought it and take another one (i suppose that you have a guarantee ha?).
SOURCE: help on 1 amp and 1 alpine srw-124d
You have dual 4-ohm coils. 2 coils per speaker.using one speaker, if you take and run the postive from one coil and connect it to the negative of the other coil, then take a wire from your bridge channel on your amp and connect the positive to the the remaining positive on the one coil and connect the negative to the remaining negative on the other coil you will create a 8ohm load on the amp in bridged mode.
now this is the important part. The bigger the load on the amp the greater the wattage output to the speakers. This sucks the wattage out of the amp. Careful not to overload you amp. The setup above is safe for any amp. The following is for 2ohm stable amps only. The lower the ohm value 2, 4, 8 and so on, the greater the load on the amp.
connect the positive of one coil to the positive of the other. connect the negative of one coil to the other negative of the other coil. then take a wire from your bridge channel on your amp and connect the
positive to the the positive on one coil and connect the
negative to the negative on the same coil and you will create a 2ohm load on the amp in bridged mode.
Series = add the two ohm value
parallel= halve the ohm value
you can play with series and parallel together using more than one speaker setup.
SOURCE: 1999 Audi A4 Rear Speakers
The large block is a factory amplifier - in your car (as was in mine) you had a partially-amplified system. The front speakers were driven at speaker level from the head unit, but the rears were fed a line-level signal from the head unit to the amp, which then boosted to speaker level. The harness then sent the speaker level signal to each rear speaker.
What you can do is fit your new head unit. The fronts will interface perfectly with no issues. For the rear, run new wires from the adapter harness at the back of your head unit, back to the new rear speakers, and connect them directly. Then everything will work as it should.
SOURCE: How to wire 2 ohm 2 12ich alpine type r's to box terminals?
Dual 4 ohm subwoofers can only be wired @ 1 ohm, 4 ohm or 8 ohm.
2 ohm mono load is not possible.
You will need to use (1) subwoofer to get the 1000W out of the amp.
Wire both positives on one sub to + on amplifier and both - on the same sub to - on amplifier to give the amplifier a 2 Ohm load.
Add a second amplifier, or buy an amplifier that is 1 ohm mono stable.
You can wire both to the amplifier at 4 ohms 600W, but they will share the power and only see 300W ea.
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