How do I set the timing to spark on number one cylinder.

One cylinder not firing. What could cause this? - Third Generation ...

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Nov 27, 2001 - Still trying to get my ride going. I set timing last night and checked fuel pressure (BTW the vacuum controlled FPR is awesome!!), and it ran like.

View topic - Cylinder 1 not firing HELP!!!!!! - TheSamba.com

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Jun 22, 2013 - 10 posts - ‎5 authors
I took the spark plug out again and cleaned it and it still ran on 3 cylinders. I know it isnumber 1 cylinder not firing. I took the spark plug wire off ...

cylinder #1 not firing - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board

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Jul 19, 2010 - 15 posts - ‎12 authors
The number 1 cylinder in my chevy 350 is not working. I put new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, checked to make sure rocker nuts aren't too tight, ...

Diagnose Engine Misfire - Auto Diagnosis Repair Help

Make sure ur distrubuter is not out 180 Degrees and also chek all ur connections to ur plugs are good

The miss fire is most likely related to the number 6 cylinder spark plug. Replace all the spark plugs, erase the code and start the engine. This is the easiest thing and the first thing that should be done. If you have not had the plugs replaced, now is the time to do so. There are other causes that can be related to this code, but spark plug replacement needs to be ruled out.

remove the plug from the #1 cylinder, and install it into the #2 cylinder , and put plug from # 2 clyinder in to #1 plug hole, connect plug wires, and start up vehichle, and if computer shows misfire on # 2 cylinder , then you have a bad plug, possibly porcelin insulator could have a hair line crack in it, hope that this information has helped you.

If the distrubutor is definatley installed correctly, as you have some one crank the engine turn the distributor sightly counert clock-wise and clock-wise until the engine fires up. Then set the timing with a light. Double check the wires are in the correct position on the dist in relation to spark plug/cylinder places.

drive it to a shop and have them do it. What will happen is you wont be able to position it correctly without a data scanner. You don't set timing on these like an old truck. You need to cam sync it which requires a scanner to show postion and then you rev the engine while checking the position which ideally should be at zero plus or minus 2. Just hope this is your problem before you go to this expense to replace the distributor. If you have a MIS i'm doubting its the distributor if you already replaced the cap and rotor.

Next step would be to check the compression in that cylinder and compare it to the others.

Basically this means that the the car's computer has detected that not all of the engine's cylinders are firing properly.
A P0300 OBD DTC code indicates a random or multiple misfire. If the last digit is a number other than zero, it corresponds to the cylinder number that is misfiring. A P0302 code, for example, would tell you cylinder number two is misfiring. Unfortunately, a P0300 doesn't tell you specifically which cylinder(s) is/are mis-firing, nor why. Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open. If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.

The cylinder is not getting fuel, spark or compression. You have already checked for spark on that cable and it appears to be good. Pull the spark plug and see if it is damaged. You can also switch spark plug and cable to another cylinder and see if the miss travels with the plug and or cable. If so, you'll know its the spark plug/cable that is bad.

You can check for fuel by listening to the fuel injector to see if it clicks. Use an automotive stethoscope or a long screwdriver--put the metal end of the screwdriver on the injector and the other end against your ear and listen to the injector while the engine is cranking or running. You should hear it click for each time it pulses fuel.

If both fuel and spark are good, then you are probably missing compression in that cylinder. You (or a mechanic) will need to pull all the spark plugs and do a engine compression test with a compression test/gage set. Lots of things can lead to poor or zero compression including: broken piston rings, burned/stuck/broken valves, cracked cylinder head or engine block, cracked pistons,etc.

Because one cylinder is "dead", the engine has to work extra hard to start and run against a cylinder that is dragging it down. If you find low/no compression in that cylinder, you will probably have to remove the cylinder head to correct it. A big expensive job. It may be cost effective to replace the whole engine with a rebuilt one.

Hi there;
I have run into an issue with these engines miss-fireing on #3 before.
You may want to have you tech check the miss-fire count for #3 & #7 on his/her scanner, THe distributor cap on these engines is made so the spark for #3 crosses over the path of #7 & they sometimes mix & become one. What happens then is they may be fooled by a spark coming through the wire if on a test lead but won't send the spark to the cylinder. The spark always goes to the easieat place so when cyl.#3 is ready to fire it is easier for the spark to go to #7 & vice-versa, So you tech will see a constant miss-fire on #3 & an intermitant missfire on #7. they can ceck the cap by pulling #3 plug wire off the distributor cap while the truck is running & there will be no spark, if he puts #3 back on & pulls #7 off there will be no spark there. the computor will only set a #3 miss-fire code because that is the cylinder that miss-fires the most.
If they find that is O/K you will want to have them do a compression test. If they find the compression is conciderably lower on cylinder #3 than the rest the camshaft theory is plausable.
The next step will cost you some money but it will tell you if you have an injector issue. You will have to pay you tech about 3.0 hrs to do this & you can just have them replace the #3 injector & hope it works. But they are around $200.00 rebulit so thats alot of money to throw at a hope. You'll need to get them to swap the #3 injector with the injector from one of the other cylinders then run the engine. if the miss-fire moves to the other cylinder you know you have an injector issue.

I hope this helps, Good luck, please let me know how you make out.
Farrout!