OK, I know a bunch of other people have asked this problem but mine has a weird twist. And please excuse my ignorance here in my description, computers, I know, ovens, I don't.
I have a Frigidaire FGB24T3ABA that has worked fine for a few years but lately it's giving me problems. Being a DIY'er who has repaired everything from my car to my TV to my home wiring myself I thought I'd ask for some help. Naturally, I don't want to blow my house up so if you experts tell me it's out of my league, I will be happy to step aside. Here's what goes on:
When I turn it on, I can look in the broiler door and see that the thing that heats up (I'm guessing the igniter) starts to glow orange but it still takes up to 15 minutes to turn on.
Once on, it runs for a while (5-15 min) then turns off.
The glowing orange thing in there starts to cool down and go back to it's normal metal color.
After a while, it will start to heat up and glow again, then it will eventually turn on.
As you can imagine, this situation is no good for making chicken. I need help. So here's where I am solution-wise. I could be dead-wrong or heading in the right direction. I would appreciate any help:
I don't think it's the thermostat since even though it cuts off after running, it's not starting up properly to begin with.
I thought it might be a problem with air flow within the oven cavity. I found this suggestion here on your site and I noticed in the pictures I found online of my oven that there are little air vents right under the broiler door. Mine does not have these vents. It's goes from broiler to wood. Again, I don't think this is the problem since it worked well for so long and I've tried to leave the broiler door open to see if this remedied the problem by allowing oxygen in. No dice.
So here's where it gets weird. I thought it might be the gas flow so I went behind the oven (valves and such are in the laundry room), cut the gas, turned it back on and poof! I heard it ignite. I ran back in the kitchen and it was on. So I figured the valve was probably not turned all the way to open. But, naturally, it didn't last. The oven went off again. I ran back to the laundry room to try the trick that had just worked but it didn't do anything. So I fiddled around in the oven for a couple of minutes looking for anything out-of-the-ordinary. Since I wouldn't have recognized it if I saw it, I went to the back again, flipped the valve closed, then open. Poof! It's on again.
I'm very confused. Could it be a clogged gas line? If it is, why doesn't flicking the valve work every time? Could it be the igniter? There's a post here that seems similar and talks about the igniter being lit but seemingly a low flow of gas. I would appreciate any help. Thanks.
Awesome. You guys rock. I figured the fact that it was working when I fiddled with the gas valve was just a coincidence (since sometimes it did not work). If I order a new ignitor, is it the type of thing I can fix myself?
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Re: Oven turns on and off intermittently
You most likely just have a weak ignitor. What you describe are classic symptoms, except I have never tried turning gas off.
If you have an amp clamp, check the amp draw of the ignitor. Clamp it on with the oven off. Turn the oven on and watch the amp draw. It will start climbing as it heats up and open the valve at about 3.2 amps. If you get 3.2 amps and it still doesn't light, you probably have a valve problem. I expect you will see it get up to 2.8- 3.0 then linger there for a while. This causes slow and erratic operation of the gas valve.
Even if you find this not to be the problem, this is the very first step to diagnosing a gas oven. You have to know the amp draw of the ignitor before you can go any further.
Post back to let me know what you find.
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My Kenmore 911.46565 is doing the same thing. The F3 error is associated with the temperature sensor. It may be as simple as a bad connection. I am getting mine to work by wiggling the plug at the connection to the main electronic controller where the touch pad is located. If yours is working intermittently like mine the sensor is probably OK. If the problem is with the electronic control board it could be some cheap little component like a capacitor that needs replaced. There is a business in Houston called PCBR.biz that can rebuild your controller for much less than what a new one costs. That's what I will be doing if the controller continues to fail. Good luck with your troubleshooting!
If you are asking about the light globe, use a rag and grab the globe tightly. Twist it counter clockwise. It might take a great deal of force. Sometimes you can try tightening the globe first to get it to break loose.
I hope this helps you. Please let me know if I can assist you further.
I think your problem either lies in the thermostat or the gas valve. If you have one (Meter) take a reading at the coil side of the gas valve while starting and see if the signal drops out. If it does your thermostat is faulty. If it does'nt the coil on your gas valve is weak and dropping out as it heats up I have seen this quite frequently. You will have to read the schematic on your panel to see if it is registered in voltage dc or M/V.
The fan only comes on in the back of the oven when convecting and Automaticaly turns off when you open the door. The exhaust fan coming from the front stays on for qutie a while, maybe 2 hours or so till the oven cools. I think it is just a function of the oven. A good thing in the winter but uses a bunch of airconditioning in the summer
Hopefully someone answered your question by now. If not, the glass bulb cover sticks sometimes, but it does turn counterclockwise. Be firm with it, let it know who's boss. Once you've removed it, you can replace the 40 watt appliance bulb. (The manual suggests you unplug the range or disconnect power for your safety). Good luck.