RM2652 runs a short while on gas then gas shuts off.

First you need to get a nice blue steady flame to prove to the ignition module there is flame. Check you orifice and bypass tube.

The RM2652 should shut down when the fridge reaches proper temperature. So yes the flame should go out when operating on propane. If the refrigerator does not get cold enough, then the flame will not ever shut down. It is posible that you may require a replacement cooling unit. WEB SITE: ArctiCold Refrigeration We keep it cold
ONLINE STORE: http://www.rvfridgerepair.com/

Might check you entering and leaving gas pressure first. The gas manifold I'd designed for a certain amount or positive pressure. If its a flue restriction, the induced draft motors' pressure switch wouldn't close, normally. The orifice may be damaged, crooked, or dirty? If it's just the 1 acting this way, inspect the orifice. Some furnaces have a piece of metal, inside the heat exchanger, that sends the flame/heat in a spiral form. Peer inside the openings to the heat exchanger. You should be able to see them if present. Hope this helps!

Improper ground from control to burner.
Incorrect electrical wiring, check polarity.
Tubing partially clogged between inducer and proving switch.

A sampling of various failure codes on a furnace:

Read one LED flash that stays on continuously to mean your furnace has no signal coming from the thermostat and will not operate. Turn the power off and check the thermostat for improper settings or connections.

Interpret one LED flash that blinks on and off to mean your furnace has locked out because it could not ignite after three tries, and must be reset. Interrupt power to your furnace for 20 seconds or lower the thermostat so your furnace does not try to heat, then reset the thermostat to the previous setting. After one hour of lockout, your furnace will automatically reset itself and try to operate as usual.

Decipher two LED flashes to mean the draft blower is not working, or your furnace has a short in the pressure switch circuit. Turn off the furnace power and repair a short or replace the pressure switch.


Read three LED flashes to mean your furnace has an open pressure switch circuit or it has an induced draft blower operating. Check the pressure switch hose of your furnace for blocks or an improper connection. Also, look for blockages in the flue, and tighten any loose wiring.

Translate four LED flashes to mean your furnace has a primary limit circuit open, possibly from loose wiring or blocked filters. Check and clean filters, tighten wiring and check the flue for blockages.

Interpret five LED flashes to mean your furnace senses a flame without a call for heat. This could be from a gas valve closing slowly or a burner flame lingering.



Read seven LED flashes as a warning of a low flame sense microamp signal. This could happen with a coated flame sensor or a lazy flame from poor gas pressure. Turn off the power and adjust the gas pressure according to the information on the rating plate.



See eight LED flashes as meaning an igniter circuit problem due to a bad igniter or an igniter connected improperly. Replace the bad igniter or check the ground wiring, making necessary corrections.



Decipher nine LED flashes to mean the high-stage pressure switch circuit will not close during a high-stage-induced draft blower operation. Your furnace may have a pinched or blocked pressure switch hose, a blocked flue or loose wiring.

Read continuous flashing on the LED to mean your furnace has a reversed polarity of 115 volts. Turn off the power and correct the wiring polarity after reviewing the wiring diagram.

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There is a induced draft motor that will run first to purge the combustion chamber and induce a draft, a pressure switch closes proving an induced draft exists, thus allowing the spark and pilot gas, or hot surface ignitir and gas to pilot rsil and /or burners, a trial period for ignition about 30 seconds each for 3 attempts will be made and if not lit by the 3rd attempt it locks out, requiring a reset of power to unit to reset the module or circuit board etc. 1st see what motors running, is it the flue exhaust motor/induced draft??

Hi there. When calling for cold, flame should be large and blue. If orange, clean mixing tube, flue, chimney. If still orange, adjust "air" inlet on mixing tube to get blue flame.
Thanks
Paul

That was my same problem. I posted yesterday but I don't think I did it right! Anyway I had stated I thought it was the thermocouple and that's what it was. The millivolts while connected were down around 13.5 or so and that low of a voltage is not enough for the control board to verify there is a flame present. I replaced the thermocouple and it now reads 33.5 millivolts while the flame is on. So before you buy a new control board, make sure it's not something less expensive. I paid almost $40 for the replacement, but I am in a hurry to get this unit repaired. You can find them on-line for about half that.

1
1 FLASH
Furnace fails to operate.
• Integrated control module
diagnostic LED is
flashing ONE (1) flash.
• Furnace lockout due
to an excessive
number of ignition
“retries” (3 total)1.
• Failure to establish flame.
Cause may be no gas to
burners, front cover
pressure switch stuck open,
bad igniter or igniter
alignment, improper orifices,
or coated/oxidized or
improperly connected flame
sensor.
• Loss of flame after establishment.
Cause may be
interrupted gas supply, lazy
burner flames (improper gas
pressure or restriction in flue
and/or combustion air
piping), front cover pressure
switch opening, or improper
induced draft blower
performance.
• Locate and correct gas
interruption.
• Check front cover
pressure switch
operation (hose, wiring,
contact operation).
Correct if necessary.
• Replace or realign
igniter.
• Check flame sense
signal. Sand sensor if
coated and/or oxidized.
• Check flue piping for
blockage, proper
length, elbows, and
termination.
• Verify proper induced
draft blower performance.

if the flue is warm that would indicate that the flames lit for a short while. furnaces sometimes have limit switches that shut down the gas if the heat exchanger gets too hot. I would verify you have clean filters. and all registars open fully.
If the flames are not lighting verify gas valve is recieving the 24vlts. to open.
Also check ignition system it will be a piolet light or hot surface ignitor. you should be able to see both without much trouble. hs ignitor should get bright cherry red.

The part you are looking for is the thermo couple. It senses the heat from the flame and holds the gas valve open. The clicking will try three times and then go into lock out. You then will need to reset on the front of the fridge. When installing the thermo couple do not over tighten.