Motor draws too much current - Pride Mobility Victory 3 Wheel Electric Scooter

the current draw will depend on the load on the motor so low gear (1st) will be a lot less that high speed (5th gear)
however on a 500 cc amp battery, with trolling it shpuld be around 5 amps

Why is the motor overheating - that is the issue. Too many clothes in drum? Excessive drum friction? Dirty motor bearings? Drive friction problem?

Disconnect motor and check current draw without a load to see what it is and if within specs. If motor has some melted windings internal resistance is down and current draw and heat is up! Motor could be fubar.

Check the starting capacitor- if ng replace it. Also check compressor motor windings. If they are ok then it is possible that the motor has seized. To confirm that check for the current draw of the motor while not running. Usually on the unit there will be a rating for normal current draw and a draw when the rotor is frozen. Check your reading against the frozen motor reading. And if the motor is frozen and not running it will be hot, very hot and the clixon will kill power to motor till it cools and it will shut down again as it overheats due to non operation.

In accessory mode you won't notice the high current draw because the alternator is out of the circuit and the engine is not running. With the engine running, you will see the excessive draw on the volt/amp gauge. If bad enough it will pull the idle RPM down a bit.

Your blower motor is bad or the wiring has deteriated to the point of causing a high current draw. A good auto tech (or knowledgeable friend with a DVOM and amp gauge) can diagnose the problem in 10 minutes.

According to the alarm code E58 is usually a washing machine with inverter and means problem with inverter board or motor or wiring between inverter-motor.

Could be:

E58 - Inverter is drawing too much current (> 4.5A).
Abnormal motor operation (overload).
Motor-inverter wiring faulty.
Motor faulty.
Inverter board faulty.

E57 - Inverter is drawing too much current (>15A)
Motor-inverter wiring faulty.
Inverter board faulty.
Motor faulty.

Dado

There are two wires comming from the circuit board to the wire feed motor. You can try running the motor directly from a 12v battery or two for 24 volts. You might want to look at the name plate on the motor to check the normal DC current it draws. If you do not have an ammeter, you could use a fuse close to or just under the normal current. If it runs and draws too much current, then you know you have motor problems.
If it runs well and draws a fraction of normal current,you know the motor is good. Before you condem the circuit board, check that it is receiving the correct input voltage. If the welder is dual voltage,then somebodys mistake making voltage change could send 240 v to the board that is meant to receive 120v.
Hope this helps, Robert

Lock motor Amps ( LMA ) is the current draw when the compressor starts.This draw of current is less then 1sec.The amp amount shoud be on the compressor Name Plate.This amp draw is also the amps used when the compressor goes bad and locks up then the overload kicks out.

Can you give more details? are you saying it stops 7 seconds after you step on it, (every time)?

If so, have you had the treadmill a while? this is an indicator of a worn belt. the belt is not sliding like it should, and drawing too much current. your control board will 'clip' the current off after a pre-set time, to avoid burning up components.

other things it could be:
1. your belt is too tight. did you tighten it lately? When did your treadmill start doing this?
2. The motor is going bad, and drawing too much current.
3. motor control board is bad.

look at your motor's current rating: measure the current draw when you get on it. if the current draw is ~ 80% of the rated current of the motor, and your belt is good,..and not too tight, it could be the motor.

if the treadmill is stopping while only drawing 4 or 5 amps, I would lean towards the control board is bad.

cheapest way to get started troubleshooting. Ensure the belt is not too tight, (adjust to only about 3 inches slack, when you pull up on it). next. buy some belt lubricant and lube it up.

If this doesn't fix your problem, keep looking for other fixya help. someone with SportCraft TX 2.5 specific experience. Sorry, I only have generic help here.

good luck.

Electric motors are always equipped with a magnetic starter, composed of a magnetic contactor and an overload relay. It protects the motor from burning out when the current drawn exceeds the setting of the overload relay by cutting the power supply.
Furthermore, motors draw more current during starting and draws even more when the load driven is heavy.
Check the following for early prevention of burning out of the motor windings:

1. Motor windings
   
2. Motor temperature
3. Line current
4. Motor noise
5. Load

The usual cause in the rise of motor temperature, line current and noise is the wearing out of the motor bearings. When the bearings wear out, the motor has difficulty in driving the load and draws more current and temperature rises or the motor rotor touches the stator and causes a grinding effect that produces the noise. When the motor always stops, replace the motor bearings and check continuity of the motor terminals with its body. There should be no continuity between the motor body and its terminals, otherwise rewinding is necessary. In your case check the pump impeller for any obstruction.
Note: Continuity test is done using an ohmmeter. With continuity means zero resistance. No continuity means infinite resistance. You may actually need the help of a qualified electrician.

The motor has failed & needs to be replaced