Question about KitchenAid KUDS24SE Built-in Dishwasher

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Stops/Pauses during cycle

Had circuit board repaired, unfortunately, we still seem to have a problem.  Upon installing the reworked board, we seemed to get the same result - wouldn't progress through the cycles.


However, I inadvertently left the washer in the normal/run mode 
overnight, next morning discovered it had run through all cycles, and
completely cleaned the dishes I had optimistically left in the  machine.

Subsequently, I have eliminated the door switch, the pump/motor (washes and drains - opposite directions of rotation - OK), fill switch and the keypad. If you force the machine into most modes (not sure about all), it seems to
work properly.  It just won't cycle through them by myself.  I am about out of things to check, and was hoping someone out there would have a suggestion.



Posted by davejb on


1 Answer


Thermal Fuse?

Posted on Jan 05, 2008


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How to choose the best BGA rework stations in India?

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We have a clicking noise in the back, seems its a bad circuit board. Fridge is not cooling. Where do we get the circuit board for a repair? GE 22.2 CU

I recently worked on one. On the back side of the board was a loose solder connection. I soldered it and re-installed the board and it worked. I took some pix and posted em HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at

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The brakes, when pressed in the front, seem to not stop and slide , brake lights will not come on, transmission shift makes noise when shifting from park to driveand to reverse. I have taken my vehicle...

Brakes - most common is brake pads were replaced with non-OEM pads and/or rotors were machined during the brake service. Use OEM brakes pads and replace, instead of machining, rotors. Again, use OEM parts for best results. GM recommends replacing rotors during brake service on that model, similar to European models. Unfortunately, GM has not priced the rotors as the Europeans have priced theirs.
Transmission noise - I am assuming a "clunk" noise when shifted while at a stop, also known as "garage shift". Most common is the bushings in the rear differential housing mounts. They may look OK upon inspection but when removed they will be split. Second common is similar issue with transmission mount itself, although that is quite rare.
Brake lights - Any competent automotive electrical repair facility should be able to diagnose this as there is an open in the circuit somewhere. That system is relatively simple and stratagy based diagnosis should lead the technician to the problem.

Nov 22, 2010 | 2004 Cadillac CTS

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Kenmore 665.6061200 over range microwave. Problem started a few days ago with a clicking sound from the RH side of the unit (seemingly behind the control panel), about 3 clicks per second for about 3-4...

The most likely cause of the clicking sound is the power relay that is connected to the microwaves PCB (circuit board) that turns the magnetron on and off. If starting to fail it may result in multiple clicks, then once fully failed, your microwave would simply not heat anything (as the high voltage components would not be getting power).
Unless you have a strength in electronics and repair, and understand the lethal dangers involved in working on a microwave, even one that is unplugged, this problem will likely need to be repaired by a qualified service centre.
Depending on the microwave design and the technician the whole relay circuit board may need to be replaced making this repair vary from relatively inexpensive to more expensive.

Oct 21, 2010 | Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

My microwave seems to have overheated and is not shut off. breaker is okay, outlet works

Hi there,

Well Certain models of Whirlpool microwave ovens have a problem with their thermal fuse that causes them to overheat. Whirlpool has a service bulletin out on this problem.

CORRECTION: Install a thermal cut-off repair kit (Part #8205204) to
repair the wire and terminals. Once this is done, a new
rework kit (Part #8184461) must be installed.

Good Luck!!


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1 Answer

Beko stuck on standby

There is a good chance that the power supply in your set was only operating in a marginal manner and taking the AC away and reapplying it can't get the supply to start up again. Old style 'linear' power supplies were less efficient but also less complex and les liekly to fail. The power supply in your set is almost certainly the later type called a 'switched mode' supply.  These convert AC inputs into DC, then with a higher frequency (50-100 kHz) circuit back into AC and finally into several DC voltages that supply the various circuits. Although the path seems convoluted, this results in higher efficiency and, if very high quality components are used, a durable supply. Unfortunately, most companies cheat on certain components resulting in a power supply that is prone to failure.
I doubt that the power supply is on a separate board in that set as one finds in the flat panel units so the whole board needs to be removed for  service; something I generally don't recommend on CRT sets.    
In other words, you need to find a surviving TV repair. This I do recommend and I suggest you check the number of complaints regarding all later types of sets; projection, plasma and LCD. The quality of even name brand sets seems very poor and too many people have sets barely out of warranty that are sick. 

Jan 04, 2009 | Sony KV-32S42 32" TV

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Nikon D70 - indoor flash problems

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GE JVM1651 Microwave

The control circuit board needs to be removed and repaired. We routinely repair these from customers nationwide for $32.50. It sure beats the cost of a new board!

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