Had circuit board repaired, unfortunately, we still seem to have a problem. Upon installing the reworked board, we seemed to get the same result - wouldn't progress through the cycles.
However, I inadvertently left the washer in the normal/run mode overnight, next morning discovered it had run through all cycles, and completely cleaned the dishes I had optimistically left in the machine.
Subsequently, I have eliminated the door switch, the pump/motor (washes and drains - opposite directions of rotation - OK), fill switch and the keypad. If you force the machine into most modes (not sure about all), it seems to work properly. It just won't cycle through them by myself. I am about out of things to check, and was hoping someone out there would have a suggestion.
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To choose the right BGA rework station, you need to know complete details about it. BGA rework is an important part of the procedures at electronic assembly and repair houses across the world. An enormously challenging procedure, the BGA rework involves high skill levels, as well as a touch of creativity displayed by the technician executing it.
The equipment with which an electronics assembly and repair technician conducts the BGA repair is called a BGA work station.
Actual rework involved in the BGA rework station is basically conducted following the assembly of electronic printed circuit boards or PCB. PCB assembly involves a long procedure of detail oriented and careful work execution involving steps such as soldering and desoldering of joints to assemble the perfect PCB. See more http://www.sumitron.com/products/automatic-soldering-for-pcba/bga-rework-station
There are many rework stations on the market, and the price range is from a few hundred to a few thousand dollars. So it's a matter of your needs and budget.
I suggest you go on line and do a search " soldering rework stations" , and read up on the various models that are available. Amazon is a good site for this, because you can get a lot feedback from people who purchased the products.
Brakes - most common is brake pads were replaced with non-OEM pads and/or rotors were machined during the brake service. Use OEM brakes pads and replace, instead of machining, rotors. Again, use OEM parts for best results. GM recommends replacing rotors during brake service on that model, similar to European models. Unfortunately, GM has not priced the rotors as the Europeans have priced theirs.
Transmission noise - I am assuming a "clunk" noise when shifted while at a stop, also known as "garage shift". Most common is the bushings in the rear differential housing mounts. They may look OK upon inspection but when removed they will be split. Second common is similar issue with transmission mount itself, although that is quite rare.
Brake lights - Any competent automotive electrical repair facility should be able to diagnose this as there is an open in the circuit somewhere. That system is relatively simple and stratagy based diagnosis should lead the technician to the problem.
The most likely cause of the clicking sound is the power relay that is connected to the microwaves PCB (circuit board) that turns the magnetron on and off. If starting to fail it may result in multiple clicks, then once fully failed, your microwave would simply not heat anything (as the high voltage components would not be getting power).
Unless you have a strength in electronics and repair, and understand the lethal dangers involved in working on a microwave, even one that is unplugged, this problem will likely need to be repaired by a qualified service centre.
Depending on the microwave design and the technician the whole relay circuit board may need to be replaced making this repair vary from relatively inexpensive to more expensive.
There is a good chance that the power supply in your set was only operating in a marginal manner and taking the AC away and reapplying it can't get the supply to start up again.
Old style 'linear' power supplies were less efficient but also less complex and les liekly to fail.
The power supply in your set is almost certainly the later type called a 'switched mode' supply.
These convert AC inputs into DC, then with a higher frequency (50-100 kHz) circuit back into AC and finally into several DC voltages that supply the various circuits.
Although the path seems convoluted, this results in higher efficiency and, if very high quality components are used, a durable supply.
Unfortunately, most companies cheat on certain components resulting in a power supply that is prone to failure.
I doubt that the power supply is on a separate board in that set as one finds in the flat panel units so the whole board needs to be removed for service; something I generally don't recommend on CRT sets.
In other words, you need to find a surviving TV repair.
This I do recommend and I suggest you check the number of complaints regarding all later types of sets; projection, plasma and LCD.
The quality of even name brand sets seems very poor and too many people have sets barely out of warranty that are sick.
Unfortunately, you may have a faulty flash pcb (printed circuit board) The part is around 50$ plus installation 200+ total repair cost. A work around would be to use an external flash unit from the hot shoe