After a normal sized load, the tub didn't drain and water was found on the floor. When checking for source of a water leak, also found oily yellow-green fluid (not soap) on the floor under the motor. Feed and drain hoses are dry and don't appear to be leaking, nor does the door seal. I replaced the motor about 5 years ago, when the dishwasher was about 6 years old.
Mine also started leaking. Element also too hot. Mine has a 20 year warrenty on the tub (which I was NOT aware of) Repairman came today and the whole tub unit and element will be fixed for free! Look in your whirlpool instruction book to see if yours is warrentied. BTW, my dishwasher is only three years old.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It's normal to hear some water in tub, it isn't normal for the rubber wheel to be hard to turn, you need to replace the pump, they are much cheaper on ebay
I have had various issues with my fisher paykel top loader (GWL10US) and didn't realize they were all due to a plugged drain. I had mildew smell from excess water that never drained, gray streaks on clothes from dirt and residue that remained in tub, water left in tub and wet clothes after spin cycle, puddles on floor, and finally it wouldn't drain at all and the motor smelled hot/burned out.
This was all caused by a sock that got in between the outer/inner tub and went to the lowest part of the drain and finally blocked things so a leak was created and water dripped into the motor and caused a burn out.
To repair, bail water out of washer and unplug the washer. Tip machine back so you can see the motor/white plastic housing unit (pump) on bottom of washer. Where this unit attaches to the bottom of the washer, look for a clip/tab that you can pull with your finger (like a childproof cap) and twist the unit off the machine and unplug the connectors (there are 2). Once this unit is removed, you will see a quarter-sized hole into the bottom of the wash tub. this is where i found the elusive SOCK and pulled it through the hole.
When you order the "pump" it comes as one unit--motor and white plastic--and you twist it back onto the machine and plug in the connectors.
another website I've found helpful is ths.gardenweb.com/forum/laundry
* Laundry detergent * Clean cloths * Measuring tape * Plywood (if necessary) * Wrench (if necessary) 1.Verify that the Kenmore top-loading washing machine is completely plugged into a grounded, three-prong power outlet. Reset the fuse or circuit breaker, if necessary; do not plug the washing machine into an extension cord. 2.Make adjustments to the feet on the washing machine if it is shaking or vibrating. The front and rear feet must all be touching the floor evenly. If the floor under the machine is flimsy and cannot adequately support the washer, set a 3/4-inch piece of plywood under the machine for better stability. Load the tub evenly when placing items inside the washing machine and do not overload the tub. 3.Examine the washing machine drum, including between the inner and outer basket, if the machine is clicking or rattling during use. Remove loose objects from inside the drum. If objects are caught between the drums, unplug the washing machine and pull the items out with a pair of pliers, if possible.] 4.the fill hoses behind the washing machine if there are water leaks and ensure the drain hose is connected to a laundry tub or drainpipe. Look at the plumbing throughout the home for drainage problems and correct as necessary. 5.Turn on the water valves behind the washing machine and clean the water inlet hose screens if the water is not running or filling. Do not overload the tub, and use only high-efficiency (marked HE) laundry detergent in high-efficiency Kenmore washers. Note that energy-efficient washing machines often use less water than other machines; this is normal. 6.Choose a wash cycle with a higher spin speed if the water is not draining as expected or items are extremely wet when washing is complete. Reduce overall load size and select a new drain/spin cycle to remove the extra water from the washer. Ensure the drain hose is properly installed on a drainpipe or tub and is not set more than 96 inches above the floor. 7.Reduce the number or volume of items inside the washer tub if the clothes are not rinsed when the cycle is complete. Verify that the water valves are turned on and the correct type and amount of laundry detergent is used.
having a very unbalanced load can cause the water to go over . yes the tubs are supposed to be able to move around some.run a load with no clothes in it if it leaks then you may have a more serious problem
Air-gap device -The air gap is a small device found on most washers that prevents the wash water from being siphoned into the household water supply. It's located either mid-way along or at the end of the black rubber hose that comes from the water-inlet valve. Often it's made of translucent plastic. If one of the air-gap components deforms or cracks, you may need to replace it.
The tube -There's a rubber tube that runs between the water-inlet valve and either the air-gap or the inlet spout. If it cracks or breaks, it can cause a leak.
Inlet spout -Most washers have a plastic spout near the top of the main clothes tub that directs the water into the tub. If the spout cracks or breaks free of its mounting, it can cause a leak.
During drain and spin only
A washer that leaks only during the spin cycle often has a leak in the main drain hose. Inspect the entire hose and correct any problem you find. Alternatively, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. This may be most visible during large loads and high water levels. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
All the time
If the washer leaks all the time, check these:
Hot and cold water fill hoses - Check the hot and cold water hoses from the household plumbing. If either hose is leaking, tighten it or replace it, as appropriate.
Main tub seal - The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft entry point. If this seal leaks, you can see the leak by opening up the machine's main access panel while the machine is full of water with a small amount of detergent in it. The leak appears at the underside of the outer tub, at or near the center. This seal is difficult to replace. You probably should call a qualified appliance repair technician.
Pump - If the pump leaks, you can probably spot the leak when the tub is full of water. The pump has two or more black rubber or plastic hoses attached to it and usually has a drive belt that spins the pump. If the pump is leaking, you need to replace it.
Outer tub - Over time, the steel or plastic outer tubs can rust, split, or be punctured. If this happens, you may have to replace the entire outer tub--but that may not be an economical repair to make. Consult a qualified appliance repair technician for further details.
CA Cl Average current limit Or Instantaneous current limit If a status signal comes back from the motor controller that a current limit has been breached, the unit will return to standby mode and display either CA for average current limit trip or Cl for instantaneous current limit trip. Average current trip occurs if there is a 2 second average of current draw greater than 5.55 amps at the motor windings. Instantaneous current trip occurs if there is a spike of 26 amps instantly at the motor windings. This may signify problems with the drive motor, thermal protector, or motor controller. Over-loading the unit may cause this problem.
When error message 4E is displayed, you should clean the water hose mesh filter. To do this:
1. Turn off the water source to the washing machine. 2. Unscrew the hose from the back of the washing machine. 3. With a pair of pliers, gently pull out the mesh filter from the end of the hose and rinse it under water until clean. Also clean the inside and outside of the threaded connector. 4. Push the filter back into place. 5. Screw the hose back onto the washing machine. 6. Turn on the faucet and make sure the connections are watertight.
Also, please check the following: • Make sure the source water faucet is turned on. • Check the water pressure.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question
check motor coupler remove motor and check plastic coupler and rubber drive coupler. when you look under machine should see residue on floor from faulty part if this is problem
Perhaps you could tilt the machine and unscrew the motor's rotating part. The plastic nut turns counter-clockwise to undo (i.e. normal), should only be hand-tight.
Then when you look at the motor coils, do you see water?
Is there water in the 'webs' of the tub base above? If so, is the water in just the web that has the drain hole at the top? That is the drain hole for the shaft seal, just above the bearings. If it leaks there, it suggests a faulty/mis-fitted seal, or that the shaft is worn after thousands of washes.
Otherwise, refit the motor rotor and check that the drain pump (next to it) is clicked into place properly. It twists and clicks to lock.
×