New dishwasher, found dead with water in base

One thought: Your dishwasher is defective, though new.

If you mean water remains in the bottom of the machine, look to see that the waste water pipe has a fall in it all the way to the discharge point, otherwise water can run back into the machine after it finishes pumping out.

Unless you have hard water it is not necessary to use the dishwasher salts. We are in an area with very soft water, just pretend the red light is not there and wash as usual. Same for drying agent, we don't use it and the machine still works even though the lights are on. We actually had a repair person come out, the company we bought the dishwasher from were willing to give us a new one based on my saying it didn't work without salts. Needless to say I felt like an idiot when he came. The manual that comes with the unit should be better written.... There is a delay between turning the power on and the machine starting which was the biggest reason I thought it was not working without the salts.

I finally found the cause of my "over-level water error", and I fixed it. In my case it was a gummed-up water level float chamber (part #13 in the diagram here). Once I pulled it out, cleaned it, and put it all back together the dishwasher is running fine. What follows are the symptoms I experienced, and some pictures of what I saw and did to fix it.

Symptoms: After nearly 2 years of owning a DMT400RHS, dishes began to progressively come out with sediment on them. They were not being cleaned nearly as well as previously. This symptom seemed to start fairly suddenly and remain for about 2 months. Then, the dishwasher began to occasionally error out, first with "Drain Error" or "Over-level water error", then later consistently with the "Over-level water error":




For awhile we could just restart the dishwasher and it would do a load. Later, however, no matter how many times we restarted, unplugged, etc. it would not continue. Of note, there was never actually a drain problem, as it would always, well, drain.

The error was never triggered during the initial "drain phase". It was always triggered after that phase, when it was filling the tub with water, specifically after it had been filling for awhile. Eventually, we figured there must be a float someplace that was all gummed up and not moving up with the water level.

Well, here's what I found when I finally pulled the entire dishwasher out and laid it down on its side (facing the door, tip it over to your right):




Inside that little box with all the sediment and glop is a wing-shaped float that couldn't move due to the glop. I simply held the whole plastic thing under the sink faucet to rinse it out. I had to take off the tub pan in order to pull off the drain hose that's attached to the back of this chamber. After rinsing it out, I put it back in and the dishwasher seems to be running fine:

Ok so your dishwasher won't do anything... it justs sits there and "Hums" you can't make it respond to any controls, and the ONLY way to Stop it. is to unplug the unit, replugging back in it simply "Hums" again and will do nothing.
Now this happens because, the STOP Button, is pressed and the "Door Opened", during the Wash Cycle. This should NOT be done. You shouldNEVER TURN IT OFF MID-CYCLE. you should instead, Simply, pull on the handle, to Open the door, the system will take care of everything, after, you close it,and pick up where it left off. The turning OFF, makes the machine "Think" that a New Cycle, is going to be done, before the old one is finished, and resets itself to do it all again. But it still has water, that's not meant to be there so it must dump it out.
Now, the FIX. Take the Dishwasher, out, and tip over on it's side, tip to about a 45' angle. Water will come out from underneath, this is from a small "Overflow" reservoir. this reservoir has an "Anti-Flood" switch. The removing of this water will "Reset" this Switch, and allow the dishwasher to work again.
So what happens, is this, when the STOP button is pressed Mid-Cycle, the machine must "Dump" whatever water is still in the machine, into the "Overflow Reservoir". This water then causes the Anti-flood switch to jam, and this stops the machine, until it is reset,by the above method.

Good day-

I am the proud owner of a LG LDF6920WW. I bought it 10-2008 and it developed a high pitched sqeel (HPS) exactly 2 years and 3 months later. It first occurred on a monday and repeated on the following Wednesday. After the water filled the machine and the swirling, pumping, cleaning cyale began, the HPS began and lasted until the drying cycle. I searched the internet and determined that this HPS was occurring anywhere from 5 days of being purchased, up until the 2 year mark. I was weary of believing that a motor would fail in a five day period as well as last for up to 2 years, so I "Googled" parts for my model and looked at the scematic or parts break down chart. Refering to the chart, I began to disasemble my dishwasher after removing it from the cabinet and taking it to the garage.

I focused on the sump assembly. I removed all parts, motors, baffles, bladders, check valves, etc. I thougroughly cleaned all pieces and parts with windex and a scotch/sponge. I removed all food and debris from all surfaces and gaskets. I cleaned the main body cover by using a low pressure hose and alternating cleaning the top and bottow. I made sure not to rip the micro screening. Upon re-assembly I used high heat, automotive bearing grease to lubricate the seals where motor shafts protruded through them. ****Important**** I set the clutch setting at 3 on my electric drill to screw the assembly back together. I also disassembled the water inlet valve and the float assembly on the left side, exterior of the dishwasher and cleaned that completely out. I flushed all hoses as well.

I put it back in, connected all water, electricity and back-flow devices. The dishwasher is once again silent. All motors and bearings seemed fine. During tear down, the only problems I found were: 1) A lot of debris in several places. 2) dry gasket to shaft surfaces.

I had the same problem. Turn the HIGH TEMP buttons off. Simply turning them off corrected this problem for me. Mine got stuck in two places and I had to manually turn the dials or the washer would run all night.

Quit using the new Cascade. The formula change is what is causing the problem. No research from Cascade before releasing the product