Question about Washing Machines
Posted by Anonymous on
Check out the motor control board near the floor on the right side. These have a high failure rate on the Neptunes. Maytag redesigned both the motor and motor control board to be more reliable. While inspecting this board, you are looking for a blown 10 amp fuse and /or burnt components. If you have either... then you will need the the new 12002039 motor conversion kit which includes the motor, motor control board and the wire harness.
This kit takes about an hour to install.
Don't forget to replace your door latch wax motor. See www.neptunehelpsong.com to hear a funny song explaining the faulty door latch failure.
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
The start of the spin cycle is dependent on the pump pumpin out water and the later level switch sensing that the water level is low enough. The water level switch has (usually) a clear tube connected to it and is found in the control panel. You will want to check continuity at different times. First you will fill the tub to the highest water level. Then unplug the machine. By screwing in the screw on the water level switch. Scew it all the way in. then you will check continutity. there should be no cont. between green and brown. and there should be cont between green and black or yellowblack. Do this continuity test with the wires off the switch. Once this test is complete, reattach the wires and plug in the machine and set the timer on spin or drain. When the tub is pumped dry, stop the spin cycle and unplug the washer and do the continuity test again. This time you should have continutiy from green to brown. and no continuity from green to black or yellowblack. Now when i mention the colors that means the placement where those wires were. Make note before you remove them so that you can get them back to place. If you do not get these readings, the water level switch is bad, or there is a leak in the air pressure tube leading to it. At that point I would replace the entire switch and tube. I wish you the best of luck.
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
Disconnect power should be a motor coupling broken you take off the cabinet, two phillips head screws left console bottom on back and right console bottom left on back and pull toward you and rollback the console two funny looking brass colored springs insert screwdriver into spring and push back toward back of washer and it will jump out. disconnect the lid swithch and lean cabinet out and looking down inside at front bottom slide out 2 inches to remove cabinet. then two black clips that hold pump on and then two screws and same except larger clips that hold motor on remove wiring harness and lift motor out and youwill see coupling either broken there or on transmission replace with part number 285852A from 1-877-262-1479 to put back on use hammer and 3/8 or 7/16 socket and extension and hit litely untillyou push metal center onto motor shaft then repeat for transmission side put rubber coupling on transmission side and line up motor and doall in reverse to put back together. tip on cabinet clips set in place and push down with heel of hand to snap into place
Posted on May 31, 2009
This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.
First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.
Three possibilities: Ranging from easy to relatively messy but inexpensive.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a
rubber piece with six holes.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:
Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.
See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.
You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.
Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.
Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.
See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.
It's also possible that the Neutral Drain Assembly in the transmission is broken:
The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.
If it will drain but won't spin the problem is likely in the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".
See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load direct drive washers.
WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS
Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.
Ours had a similar problem.
After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams
in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again
Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.
In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2"
socket extension works well).
You don't have to remove the drum.
Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the
Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds
15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.
If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.
All of the above sound more difficult than they really are. If you're comfortable with a socket set, pliers/vice grips and willing to get a bit dirty (oil) you can save some considerable money.
As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.
Posted on Jul 11, 2010
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