Opening up the casing

I assume you're talking about the light behind the display. It can be repaired, but do weigh the labor cost against the price of replacement. Possible failure causes: bad connection between main board and display, LED driver chip failure, open LED. Best case: somebody didn't properly latch the LED cable connector on the main board and the cable has slipped loose. Worst case: the driver has failed but is not available on the open market, or an LED has failed and the display turns out to be permanently assembled with glue so you can't pull the back off to find and replace the bad LED. (I don't know if this is the case because I've not had this model apart before.)

Kurio 7 Screen Replacement
Written By: Eric Rice (and 6 other contributors)
Comments: 2 Favorites: 5 Completions: 12
Main guide photo
Difficulty
Moderate
Steps
12
Time Required
30 - 45 minutes
Sections
3
Back Panel
4 steps
Kurio 7 Motherboard Removal Guide
5 steps
Screen
3 steps
Flags
1
Grammar Police
Grammar Police
Embrace your inner English teacher and help improve this guide's grammar!
Introduction
This is an easier part to replace than many others on the Kurio 7. Most require soldering, but this one does not. However, you must exercise extreme care when taking the device apart so that none of the soldered connections are broken. In the event that they are broken, look to our other guides for repair tips.
Tools
Buy these tools
Phillips #00 Screwdriver
$6.99
Buy
iFixit Opening Tools
$1.99
Buy
Parts
Kurio 7 Replacement Screen
Available for sale on Amazon
Buy
Step 1 Back Panel
Begin by removing the rubber cover from the Kurio 7.
Begin by removing the rubber cover from the Kurio 7.
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Step 2
Remove the four 30 mm Phillips #00 screws from the outer case.
Remove the four 30 mm Phillips #00 screws from the outer case.
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Step 3
Insert the plastic opening tool in the gap between the front cover and the back cover of the device.
Insert the plastic opening tool in the gap between the front cover and the back cover of the device.
Slide the plastic opening tool around the edge of the device. Gently pry apart the tabs that hold the front cover and the back cover together.
Be careful not to break off the tabs that hold the front cover and the back cover together.
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Step 4
Once all of the tabs are removed, the back cover should come off easily.
Once all of the tabs are removed, the back cover should come off easily.
Gently remove the back cover. There are wires inside that may get caught on the cover while removing it. These wires are soldered to their components and are difficult to reattach.
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Step 5 Kurio 7 Motherboard Removal Guide
Use a plastic credit card, or other thin object, to separate the battery from the screen.
Use a plastic credit card, or other thin object, to separate the battery from the screen.
Be sure to work the card carefully and slowly around in order to not damage, break, or deform the battery.
Carefully set the battery aside.
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Step 6
Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the eight 40mm screws holding the motherboard in place.
Use a Phillips #00 screwdriver to remove the eight 40mm screws holding the motherboard in place.
Place the screws aside in a container separate from the other size screws. You will need these later.
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Step 7
Place the plastic opening tool on the base of the black ribbon clip and pull up, like a lever, to release the mount. This should release the clip holding the ribbon to the mount.
Place the plastic opening tool on the base of the black ribbon clip and pull up, like a lever, to release the mount. This should release the clip holding the ribbon to the mount.
Pull the ribbon out of the mount.
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Step 8
There should be masking tape on the yellow ribbon. Pull the tape off of the motherboard and wrap it around the yellow ribbon.
There should be masking tape on the yellow ribbon. Pull the tape off of the motherboard and wrap it around the yellow ribbon.
Do not pull the tape completely off the motherboard, as it is used to protect components on the ribbon.
To remove the ribbon from the mount, follow the same steps in Step 3.
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Step 9
Pull back the ribbons and put the battery near the bottom of the Kurio.
Pull back the ribbons and put the battery near the bottom of the Kurio.
The motherboard is now removed so that other components can be worked on.
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Step 10 Screen
Flip motherboard down near base of device.
Flip motherboard down near base of device.
Be careful not to pull out any wires when moving the motherboard.
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Step 11
This is tricky, and an extra pair of hands may help. Use the opening tool to pry the screen out from underneath the tabs holding it in place.
This is tricky, and an extra pair of hands may help. Use the opening tool to pry the screen out from underneath the tabs holding it in place.
Once you have created some space between the screen and the cover, slide the opening tool under the screen.
Slide the opening tool around the outside of the screen, releasing the tabs as you go along.
Be careful not to pull too ******* the motherboard while doing this, as there are still many wires attached to the body of the device.
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Step 12
You have successfully removed the screen!
Pull the screen out from the casing.
You have successfully removed the screen!

First is to check whether your tab has a 'microSD port' or not.

It might not be noticeable when you check on the body/edges/outer frame of your tab otherwise you won't be asking this question.

In this case, you may need to open the back cover of your tab (there has to be say a small part you can readily open to access the microSD port inside your tab).

Where none exists, probably, your tab does not support microSD card insertion.

You don't. Most are self contained. They are manufactured by inserting the electronics into the shell and then gluing the screen to the case. If you need to access the innards, you need to physically cut the screen away from the case shell. This almost always results in screen breakage. This is done to make them shock resistant and since the most common repair is screen replacement, they'd have to break it to replace it anyway. Also, this way they know you won't go fooling around inside the device.

You might try, instead of simply "clicking" a link, hold the link for a couple of seconds... This way, like right-clicking, you can not only choose to simply open the link, open it in a new tab, save it, etc., but you can also see what/where the link points to and decide from there if it's even a viable link! Let us know how it works out for you! Good luck! :-D

You need special tools to crack open the case. You may get lucky with a thin guitar pic.

You have to watch that the buttons don't fall out of place when you open it. So use a strip of masking tape to hold them in place before you open the case.

To open the tablet it snaps in all around. You need to insert a small screw driver between the case edge and another small screwdriver to keep prying all the way around. You can hear it when it snaps open. You may need the point of a small sharp knife first. I have opened and closed mine to get the battery number. I will be replacing mine as well. You need to solder the new battery in.

Try Resetting the Device Cache Partition by booting in to Recovery Mode.

o turn ON in Recovery Mode:

Step 1: Power off device completely (You Might need to Keep it on charge)
Step 2: Press and Hold "power" + "Vol up" for 5 sec
Step 3: Notice it flash boot screen twice
Step 4: Enter recovery menu use vol up and down to navigate
Step 5: Press power button for confirmation
Step 6: Wipe cache partition.

if clearing the cache partition doesn't help, you can also try resetting your device by formatting it to factory settings (ALL DATA WILL BE DELETED). for this Repeat the Steps upto 5, then use Step 6: Wipe data and clear cache.

Post Thanks if it helps

You will be removing a total of 14 screws. Four are visible externally and are located on the underside of the unit. Remove them. Now, as you look at the back of the unit there will be a trim piece around the edge, the shape of an elongated upside down "U".It is held in with adhesive and use a plastic tool to gently pry off that trim . Removing that trim exposes 8 screws , three each on the sides and two on one of the long sides. remove them. Now hold the docking pin assembly ( where you plug in your device) and gently pull up a little bit to reveal two more screws. Remove those and you will be able to separate ( but not far apart) the front from the back. The Back part is hollow for the most part and the speakers and rest of electronics is on the front part. Hope this helps.