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Re: Sentrek car amplifier
The remote turn-on wire for an amplifier connects to a switched power source. If the head unit has a power antenna lead, or amp control lead, use it. If not, the remote lead can go to a power source that is switched with the ignition key. No matter the source, you need to fuse the wire with a 1 amp fuse at the point where you connect to the power source.
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alot of times you get one that the reset button is not resetting properly or if bought used then someone poped a part on the board a cap or fuse or diode its kind of hard to tell if not looking at unit
With out being given much information to work with I can only give you a basic run down of what the problem might be. It sounds like the MOSFET amplifiers have blown out on those channels that are not working. Did your system become ungrounded at some point while it was playing, and or did you have some kind of power surge?
Let me know the conditions under which the problem happened and I might be able to provide a better analysis.
That company went out of business some years ago, so it's difficult to find the specs or pictures of it to be super accurate, but generally speaking it should have a "Battery", "Remote", and "Ground" set of terminals and a pair of spaker terminals each with a positive and negative. The battery terminal goes to the battery, the remote terminal goes to the remote output lead (usually blue/white) on the head unit, and the ground terminal goes to the chassis of the car. The speaker terminals go to the speakers (observe positive and negatives).
im from Yamaha service before and i know this model can handle as low as 2ohms per channel. I have to check on my manuals though if bridged. i dont see any reason why it cant. and it has a bridge option input stage... let me get back to you again in the days to come.