Now only has black screen and a blinking power LED. Checked all connections to BD player and cable. Unplugged and hoped for a reset but no change. Manual talks about power management but doesn't go into any further detail or resolution.
SOURCE: HP FLAT SCREEN TV BLINKING POWER LIGHT/BLACK SCREEN
sounds like the power supply has gone bad.
SOURCE: Acer AL1716 Blank screen & blinking green power LED
Hi..there,
You've got a busted backlight inverter... Need to replaced a new one...
SOURCE: Monitor Issue: 5 seconds of picture the monitor goes black.
I had this similar problem. I found out that there was a bad 1000uf, 16V cap on the power supply board. The cap is too close to a heat sink and over heated. I bought the cap at radio shack for $2, installed it so that it is far away from the heat sink. Monitor now stays on when powered up.
These monitors are difficult to open.
After removing the stand, you need to insert a flat screw driver at the bottom of the screen where two slots are located. Then work the screw driver around until the two plastic pieces are separated. Remove the cover plate and unscrew the push buttons. Unplug the monitor cords from the driver board. Unscrew the mounting screws from the power supply board and remove. You will need to pinch the plastic support in the middle of the board to remove. Unsolder the cap. It is located near a copper heat sink and the value will be on the cap. It will be buldged up on the top. You will see burn marks on the board surrounding the cap. Install the new cap and solder. Be careful not to solder across joints.
Reassemble and turn on. Should solve the problem
SOURCE: Syncmaster 2232gw led blinking.
Change the screen resolution. The video card or video display may not be compatible to the supported video setting of the monitor. Try changing the video resolution to a lower setting such as 1024x768 and bit depth to 32 bit.
SOURCE: Samsung 931 B - Dual monitor setup. one monitor
The caps (capacitors) in the powerboard are going out. This is a very common problem in all class and price ranges of modern lcd and plasma tv's/ monitor's. I don't know if this problem has been like this for awhile or it just started, but either way, if the tv takes an abnormal amount of time to "warm" up then it most likely will go out all the way sometime in the (near) future. If you have a tiny bit of will and knowledge ypou can open the unit and get to the print board. Examine this for "popped" capacitors, they will have a buldging top instead of a flat one. Im gonna try to include a pic of them here, if i can get it this time, I've tried bfore lol. But you can google image a "popped" or "bad" capacitor and you would be able, with ease, to diagnose if you have any of these. Usually only one or two. Radioshack sells capacitors (couple anyway) for $1.59 each. MAKE SURE the replacement is of the SAME voltage or HIGHER, or you will be right back replacing those 2. Every capacitor has a negative pole marked with an (-) on the side of the capacitor(by one of the "legs", always puit the negative (-) "leg" of the new capacitor in the same hole in the printboard as where the previous negative (-) "leg" of the capacitor was ( a capacitor with the negative and positive "legs" put in backwards will result in the new piece "popping" as sson as you turn it on!!) make sure the "uf" rating (for example the most common popped capacitor is the 1000 uf) is the same as the one you are replacing. I needed 1000 uf, 105 c and 26v (volt) ratings for the 1 capacitor I needed to replace to fix my LG 19" lcd panel monitor I found by the trash that the light came on off, but it didn't come on. I replaced that capacitor with ; 1000uf, 85 c and 36 v (volts0...It works fine eventhough the volts and the temperature rating (36v and 85c) was not the same as the (26v(volt) and 105c ) capacitor I removed !! Further, I've replaced capacitors that had the celcius rating of 105 with the only ones Radioshack had, namely 85 c(celsius) they have been working great, but I'm not sure about any effect, nor have I heard or read (yet?) about that making an urgent difference. Many threads that I've read people have done the same, so we should be ok (my stuff has been running good for a while longer then most brand new ones!.............(all these ratings ; 'uf ' and 'c' etc are on the side of the capacitor you are replacing and on the side of the ones you are replacing them with)...For all this all you need is the cheapest solder gun u can find (I bought one for $7.99 at Radioshack), a camera (to take pictures as you go to remember how to reassemble the unit) and, once you have your materials, 20 minutes to replace 2 or 3 capacitors and you are good to go...Most monitors and tvs (lcd/plasma) I've seen you have to lay flat on the ground/bed/blanket etc, to work on (screen side down). Usually there are 2 or 3 screws (or a few more) to remove, then you will have to carefully (its comes off easily most times)insert a flat screwdriver inbetween the casing and gently pry it up as you go around the whole frame. Sometimes you have to remove the little washer arouind the cable input orso, just be gentle and you cant go wrong. Once inside there will be a box with wires running to the sides etc...unplug, gently, these wires and open the box. Inside you will find 2 or 3 circuitboards, check them all for "popped" capacitors, replace, reassemble and plug it in....Have fun becoming an overnight tv mechanic lol! The other screen/monitor blinking(surging) is prob caused by the other monitors faillure and should stop when you replace/fix the broken monitor.
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